I was thinking of installing street coils into my rx. I was just curious if you have to make any changes with the timing or plugs and would street coils really make a difference. My Rx is a 79' GS with circular breather and k&n and racing beat headers. Im doing this fixing up thing one at a time and wondering what should be done next that dont cost a whole lot.
thanks guys!

 

have you lost the points dizzy? if not do this with the coil switch. best thing i ever did.

 

my Rx uses a point system but runs like electric.

 

i highly doubt that, like 95%. to keep the points from frying there is a step down in voltage so that you're only sparking at roughly 6v instead of 12v. that is hardly like electric. plus in getting an electric dizzy you bypass all the ballast resistor bullshit. trust me, its a simple, well-worthwhile upgrade. plus the original coils are designed for the stepped down voltage, so you'll need to upgrade the dizzy with the coils anyway. you should be able to get a dizzy from the junkyard or someone on here for a decent price.

 

You could also eliminate the pre cat and leave one , the last one , and then run 2.1/2 inch pipe to your muffler, also upgrade to direct fire igniton , i have that and it burn fuel alot better.

 

no cats. its a 79 w/ an oven.......er a thermal reactor.

 

The dawg is runnin' RB headers so I doubt if they come off the reactor...

 

 

Thanks guys, i am no mechanic so i just wanted to make sure with the real pro's. That will be the next thing to do is upgrade to electric.

 

oh yeah, give me a break guys. i'm crosseyed.

 

Ok my next question is, how difficult is the conversion from points to electronic ignition?

 

the ballast resistors circled in green need the top wire moved down and mounted WITH the bottom wire on the bottom post. this will be simple joining of the 2 wires using the post. now the leading igniter circled in blue has 2 wires coming from it. the black/yellow wire (hot) goes to the positive terminal on the leading coil (blue). note the original positive wire needs to be left on the post as it is supplying the power. the negative wire (yellow/blue) goes to the negative. but we still need a tach signal so you need to leave the oem wire here too. i used a double spade setup to mount them both to the negative. the trailing igniter (pink) is wired to the trailing coil the same way except you can tape off the oem negative wire as its not needed. i will attach some extra pics but i'm not sure if they will offer much more info.

 

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