Is there a way to make the stock choke to work with a holley setup?
I have searched and have not found anthing.

 

Old choke, no. New choke line with stock choke ****, yes. If you're just going for factory appearnce, this is close enough...

Buy a universal choke cable from NAPA or Parts Source or whatever you Yanks have down there. Pull out your old choke cable, save the **** and the set screw in the ****. Put it on the new, longer choke cable that will reach your holley. Install new cable. Put the **** on.

 

On the stock set up, the temperature sender on the back of the water pump housing tells the ecu when to hold, (apply power to) the magnetic choke **** and when to release it, (cut power). If you can connect the stock choke cable to the Holley and if pulls in the right direction, and the needed distance it should work. I have had the choke operational on the 12A 1/2bp in the widebody with both a Mikuni 44 PHH and now the Weber DCDs.

I'd be suprised if you did find anything on this subject, unless I posted it as many don't realise that the choke system can be adapted and used as it did with the stock Nikki. The key is the having a working and connected water temperature switch #1.

 

Thanks for the help. I thought it would work. It all worked great on the Nikki so I figured it would work fine on the Holley.

I was surprised that there was nothing on this earlier.

 

I have just gone thru this as I am installing a holley racing beat set up on my 12a. What I found is you cannot use the stock choke cable as it is a pull type and you need a push/pull type cable for the holley. You can get a holley manual choke conversion kit # 45-225 and a holley manual cable #108-4. You should be able to get both of these for around $50.00 from someone like summit or your local Holley dealer. The manual cable will fit in the same dash location as the stock one. It looks nice and neat just like factory except the **** says holley instead of choke. The holley cable routes nicely along the front firewall with the fuel lines and loops neatly, from the passenger fender, back to the carb without having to change the length.
Good luck!

 

Could you just mount a spring on the choke to pull it back? Wouldn't that solve the push/pull problem?

 

The holley manual choke linkage is detented and once installed your cable has to come in from the passenger side fender to the carb, so the mazda cable is too short as well. But as I mentioned the holley manual cable routes nicely without having to cut it. It fits nicely in the same dash location as the mazda choke cable. I just had to use a couple of washers as the hole diameter was slightly larger.

 

Why not just use the hot air choke tube? Mine worked fine that way!