Steering Pulling Problem
#1
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Steering Pulling Problem
This is a problem I'm having on my '84 SE. I have manual steering. I just replaced the tie rods both inner and outer, idler arm, pitman arm, ball joints, inner and outer bearings, and brake rotors. The steering parts are all moog. The springs are Eibach (about 6 months or so old) and struts are Tokico Blue.
I took the car in for an alignment Saturday the 12th. After the alignment the car seems to pull to the left. I took it back in and he drove it 2 times. The car seems to drive straight sometimes and all of a sudden it will start to pull only to go straight again. it seems to pull 90% of the time. I have the print out and the guy seems to know what he is talking about. He has the car dialed in correctly. He doesn't think the problem is the alignment because of the pulling not being consistent. His only thought is maybe the gear box is binding. I've added more oil to the box since the alignment and that didn't change anything.
I've had the car for just over a year and have not tighted the box. The steering isn't sloppy at all. My only other thought is maybe the front control arm bushings and stay rod bushings are bad enough to cause the problem.
Does anyone have any ideas about this?
I took the car in for an alignment Saturday the 12th. After the alignment the car seems to pull to the left. I took it back in and he drove it 2 times. The car seems to drive straight sometimes and all of a sudden it will start to pull only to go straight again. it seems to pull 90% of the time. I have the print out and the guy seems to know what he is talking about. He has the car dialed in correctly. He doesn't think the problem is the alignment because of the pulling not being consistent. His only thought is maybe the gear box is binding. I've added more oil to the box since the alignment and that didn't change anything.
I've had the car for just over a year and have not tighted the box. The steering isn't sloppy at all. My only other thought is maybe the front control arm bushings and stay rod bushings are bad enough to cause the problem.
Does anyone have any ideas about this?
#2
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Re-check your bearing pre-load; if it's for-sure dialled in, then I'd also question the "soft" parts; control arm bushings, stay rod bushings, and strut mounting blocks. Also worthy of a look would be your rear axle's bushings and spring rubbers - anything that can be letting an aligned part slip out of place.
Also, if your front struts are worn and/or you are using shorter-than-stock front springs, check whether or not your springs are staying properly on their perches. I had a case recently where an over-worn front strut was letting the spring fall clear of the upper perch on bumps, where it would sometimes end up hung up trapped under the lip on the perch; caused a strong pull to the opposite side which would come and go.
Picture of what I mean:
Also, if your front struts are worn and/or you are using shorter-than-stock front springs, check whether or not your springs are staying properly on their perches. I had a case recently where an over-worn front strut was letting the spring fall clear of the upper perch on bumps, where it would sometimes end up hung up trapped under the lip on the perch; caused a strong pull to the opposite side which would come and go.
Picture of what I mean:
#3
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Thanks. I don't think the problem is the springs in the front. I'll take a good look at everything. I didn't think to look at the rear.
Anyone have any other ideas?
Anyone have any other ideas?
#4
Can you feel any movement on the control arm bushings that you didn't replace when you try to wiggle them around? Any movement there can completely change the front end geometry.
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if its intermittent this would suggest something that's worn or loose. a bad tire, or bad alignment *should* have the symptom all of the time.
also since it was all apart, it might be a good idea to make sure everything is still tight
also since it was all apart, it might be a good idea to make sure everything is still tight
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+1 on the bearings. I had a set let go when I over tightened them and before they destroyed themselves the car was pulling sporadically and sometimes violently. Not exactly a confidence inspiring feeling. Grab a fish scale and check them that way. It should take more then 1 but less than 2.5lbs of force to rotate the hub. I don't remember the exact specs but it should be in your Haynes/Chilton/FSM
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I haven't inspected the car yet but driving I have felt a few things. I have a feeling it is a bushing.
when I change lanes, it will drive straight for about 30 seconds before it starts pulling again. It does it better when I turn the wheel right. It almost feels like what ever is bad works its way into place than moves back to pulling again.
when I change lanes, it will drive straight for about 30 seconds before it starts pulling again. It does it better when I turn the wheel right. It almost feels like what ever is bad works its way into place than moves back to pulling again.
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I figured out the problem today. I first checked the ball joints to see if I over tightened. They were good. I had my wife wiggle the steering back and forth while I was under the car. The problem turned out to be the stay rod. The alignment guy didn't tighten the bolt on the back side when he adjusted it. Why do I even bother trying to trust an alignment guy to do his job right. Now I need to take it back in to have it rechecked because it is pulling to the left. At least it isn't changing from pulling to going straight.
#13
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Chris, you might want to be trying out the string method right about now, cut those incompetents out of the equation.
At least until you can find a shop that shoots straight, then let them do the fine tuning. Then, if you don't like the drive home, check it again with the strings.
If it ain't right move on to another shop.
At least until you can find a shop that shoots straight, then let them do the fine tuning. Then, if you don't like the drive home, check it again with the strings.
If it ain't right move on to another shop.
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I will have to do that. I'm going to give them one last chance. They are rechecking the car for free, as they should. If is still doesn't work out, I'll take it somewhere else.
#15
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Agree with ray here. Some aspects of alignments can be a little tricky, but I have had excellent luck with a string, along with toe plates that I made myself, and a laser level on sale from Sears. After getting 3 alignments done wrong, I had to take matters into my own hands.
At least the Toe is always set correctly....
At least the Toe is always set correctly....
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we use the toe plates on the race car... since there is nothing to adjust in the rear of an SA/FB, toe plates should be totally fine.
or the string... haven't tried it on a street 1st gen, but zero toe is great on just about everything else i've tried it on, Rx8, FC, the race cars etc etc
or the string... haven't tried it on a street 1st gen, but zero toe is great on just about everything else i've tried it on, Rx8, FC, the race cars etc etc
#17
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I took the car back in and the guy insisted he didn't touch the strut rods although he would've had to. He wasn't willing to admit he missed up. I gave the guy three chances to I just walked out.
I than took the car over to a Big O Tire where one of the local 7 owners works. The car was way out of alignment and pulling hard to the left. Now the car is tracking great and I'm very happy. He said the caster was way off (caused by the strut rods that the guy "didn't touch") and that was the main reason the car was pulling. They also had adjust everything else slightly as well.
In the end it cost me an extra $50 but now I'm happy and know where I will be taking it next time as well as my other cars.
I than took the car over to a Big O Tire where one of the local 7 owners works. The car was way out of alignment and pulling hard to the left. Now the car is tracking great and I'm very happy. He said the caster was way off (caused by the strut rods that the guy "didn't touch") and that was the main reason the car was pulling. They also had adjust everything else slightly as well.
In the end it cost me an extra $50 but now I'm happy and know where I will be taking it next time as well as my other cars.
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