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Any tricks for loosening the retaining nut on the steering box so I can adjust the play? The motor is out of the car; I tried a pipe wrench and spud wrench to no avail...
Let us know if you get it, I've searched all over for a wrench to take mine off and no luck. My ring started to deform after hammering on it so I gave up.
i have the Mazda tool for it, it is a socket for that nut size, and since it also does the transmission its about 3 feet long. i want to say its a 27mm, but maybe its bigger?
plan B might be to pull the top cover off, and then you could move it on the bench, and change the oil in the box.
Put the BFHs away,lol,these aren't trucks,a little finesse is required here. I've had to replace some steering boxes over the years due to stuff like this and I i hate doing steering boxes in 1st gen cars especially with ac. They're a light duty box and easily damaged by improper adjusting.The adjustments can be done with engine in car.
The long chisel is used to loosen gland nut at top of box for one of the adjustments,modified socket used to loosen 40mm nut on side of box for another adjustment. The 40mm socket has to be modified as shown to grip the nut without popping off and/or rounding it off.If you look at most sockets,especially impact sockets they are beveled on opening end. You need to grind the bevel off to let the socket be able to sit flush and get as much purchase on the nut as possible.The gland nut will only need 1 maybe 2 whacks to back it off.
If it won't budge,brazing tip on acetylene torch and heat nut evenly for@20 seconds,next tap it will come loose. Very good idea to make witness marks on gland nut and box and same for 40mm nut and box. If you go too far with adjustments,you can get back to where you were and start over. I,ve used this combo for years and never had a box i couldn't loosen fasteners on.
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Try to get 40mm nut to move smoothly on shaft threads,PB blaster or similar,it's important to have as little drag on threads as possible,should be able to move by hand. This adjustment is subtle as is the gland nut adjustment, you're trying to get play out of parts not tighten them for preload. Accept the fact that 1/2"of play is normal,trying to adjust for no play and driving car will wear good parts very fast and then you'll need a box. I have been able to adjust boxes that had 3" and more of freeplay at center position down to between 1/2"-3/4" of play. The cars when new all had some play,some more than others. Mazda's spec was 1/2" of play.Take out lower most bolt in cover on side of box and you can put a small hose in there down to bottom of box and suck out all the old oil-it needs to be changed,been in there for35 years.
I use a mityvac and suck oil out,you can use a turkey baster. I use amsoil 80/90 wt hypoid severe gear oil in boxes but any quality hypoid oil of that weight will do. Fill the box thru the bolt hole to @3/8" from top. I use a pocket screwdriver for a dipstick. Bottom your tool in box and make a mark with a sharpie on tool where it comes out of box and measure down 1/2" and make a scratch mark that you can see at that point. That's your fill level. Put bolt in and do your box adjustment
There is a process to adjust box correctly,fsm outlines the procedure,it's pretty involved. Done so many have some shortcuts that still get to correct adjustments if any are interested i can post.
Thanks, my problem is the lock ring, it has notches in it and hoping to fab a wrench for it, it sits at an angle so you can't properly hit it to loosen.
Thanks, my problem is the lock ring, it has notches in it and hoping to fab a wrench for it, it sits at an angle so you can't properly hit it to loosen.
Yours will be no different than any other Fb and yes you can loosen the retainer,with the engine in the car. Read back thru my original post regarding heat and yes you can distort the gearbox housing from hitting retainer too hard and too many times.
The tools i have pictured are what i've used for@35 years. Number of boxes adjusted? Too many to count.
Pics of steering gearbox in my SE and the other two tools i use for final box adjustment. Your box will look the same,all manual box FBs are.SA and P/steering boxes are different.
They're most all like that,my friend. Most of these i've worked on have the same amount of tension on retainer,very few are extremely tight. Put some PB blaster on it and let it sit overnight. The tools i pictured are all that i've needed to do box adjustments. It is possible with long chisel to lean it over the engine for the right angle on retainer. 48oz ballpeen,2-3 good taps all that's needed. No go,use heat and try again.
Possible if you've been hitting on retainer at too direct of an angle,it could be deformed enough to be pinching the threads on adjuster collar. Don't know what you're using to loosen retainer. Post some pics of your box and what you're using to loosen retainer.
On impromptu visits to help out a fellow 1st genner,have used a sharp hand chisel jammed into an appropriate sized deep socket and putting a long extension on the socket to get clearance to get a good swing on hammer.Suggest try to get a good angle on retainer to loosen,but heat it 1st. The fewer times you hit retainer at this point is best.Acetylene/brazing tip to concentrate heat in small area 1st choice,Mapp gas torch 2nd,propane torch 3rd
i have the Mazda tool for it, it is a socket for that nut size, and since it also does the transmission its about 3 feet long. i want to say its a 27mm, but maybe its bigger?
plan B might be to pull the top cover off, and then you could move it on the bench, and change the oil in the box.
Good info
Last edited by MikeCT01; 12-15-19 at 08:23 PM.
Reason: Rest of post did not originally open
09-01-19, 03:51 PM
