well got the rebuild kit from victoria british, im gonna rebuild the carb starting tonite, any tips or tricks that you guys have from doing it yourself? also, how long did it take you on your first try? I just want the car back on the road soo bad, im afraid ill rush it .

Snake Eyes<l><l>

 

ok ok, DO NOT RUSH. your first time, it may take you hours upon hours. take pics or label each piece so it goes back in the right place. ESPECIALLY keep eye on how the linkage section goes back together. the first carb i rebuilt, the secondaries never opened up when i put it back on. so if you have a digi cam, take pics of before and after each piece you take apart. TRUST ME, it is worth it! you have an 84 like me, alot of the stuff in that victoria british setup will not be used. DO NOT USE THE TWO GASKETS THAT ARE SUPPOSED TO GO BETWEEN THE CARB AND INTAKE! the seperating piece that's black and about 3/4" basically is the gasket, BUT you may want to do like i am and use a little bit of liquid gasket/ RTV around the edges because mine leaked a little gas. hope this helps!

 

Here's the tip of the day....you've got wells/holes in the body of the carb that have check ***** and rods in them...DO NOT SHAKE or TURN THE CARB BODY upside down with the top carb plate off until you locate these wells and ID each rod and ball that is in them and the exact way they are in there...

 

I got a carb rebuilder to mine.

 

wish i had that option, but alas, i prob need the experience anyway . Oh well, ya the main reason im rebuilding it is cause it keeps flooding and i can see some gas leaking from where the 2 pieces meet, so thanks for the tips

Snake Eyes<l><l>

 

hey! if that's your only problem (as was mine wheni rebuilt it) just get it apart and replace the main gaskets and use the new accelerator pump! then try it. if everything else works great then i wouldn't FORK WITH IT! especially since you are new to it. OMG! hahaha, but basically what i mean is; do only what you need to. mine leaked after i would shut it off. all that was due to the gasket between the upper float cover and float section.

 

That was the same problem i had, seems pretty common...

 

Im not complaining (well, not as much as if it was still working! ) lasted 157k miles

So is it easier just to tear the thing in half and replace the big gaskets then? I hope so, i hate doing this kind of stuff, id rather be driving it

Snake Eyes<l><l>

 

if that was your main problem? then yea just do the main gaskets and replace ALL VACCUM LINES while your at it. make sure everything is good and tight. don't forget to replace the accelerator pump piece!!!! make sure to scrape all the old gaskets pieces off so everything is nice and smooth. (i'm sure you knew that but just incase!) a little crud could cause a leak again and that would mothaforkin sux!

 

update

how in the hell do u get the accelator pump in out? i cant get it to move, i tried breaking it too with no luck (has replacements in rebuild, only if it had that damn gasket!)

Snake Eyes<l><l>

 

What part of the accellerator pump is giving you problems? If you can't get the pin out, did you take the c-clip off the end? If not, that pin will not budge. Other than that, four screws later, the pump is off.

Make sure your floats are right on, because that was your problem in the first place. They were sticking and allowing the float bowls to overflow. The rebuild kit should have new needles and seats. Spec those floats right on and you shouldn't have any trouble with overflow.

 

i know what you mean about the pin that holds the acc. pump in. i had trouble at first, but you really just gotta finesse it. spray something like wd-40 on there and tap the right end with a hammer. mine came out fairly easy that way. that really sux you busted the new gasket. if your in a hurry, how does your old one look?

 

well, i can tell where the leak is on the old one, but the new replacement showed up on my doorstep busted (vic. british) . Im goin into town to see if i can find a replacement, so close, yet so far....

Snake Eyes<l><l>

 

To get the pin out you must remove the screw nearest to it in order for the head of the pin to clear it. The after the pin is out you can get to the one screw that is blocked by it. Also, when removing the pin, theres 2 VERY thin washers that are a wear surface for the pump arm (one on either side of it). They tend to fall into the e-clip groove when you push the pin out and lock it in place. Just jiggle the washers to get them out of the groove so the pin comes out.