1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Starting problems & solutions

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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 02:26 PM
  #1  
challer2000's Avatar
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Ask me about my wankel
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Starting problems & solutions

I have been having starting problems for the past couple of months with my stock LS. The engine was replaced in 2003.

Last summer had a couple of issues on warm start. Could drive it fine then would turn it off and let it sit for ten mins and it would take a couple of tries to start again.

This winter I flooded the engine almost every time trying to start it.
-I would put in the battery then go to start and every now and then it would make a grinding noise.
-Then if it didn’t flood it would take at lest 10-15 tries to get the engine to turn over. Sometimes I would have to hold the gas down or pump it to get it started.

Just replaced
Sparkplugs
Fuel filter

So I decided to call Re-speed and get a few parts that might solve my problems. I’m not knowledgeable when it comes to electrical. So from searching I decided replacing these parts wont be too complicated.

-NGK or Magnacore wires
What would you guys go with?
And if I go with the Magnacore wires should I get 8.5 or 10 mm wires
-New cap
-New Rotor
-New Coils (don’t know on exact ones yet, Just waiting for the call on which ones they can get for me)
Also latter this summer I plan on upgrading the battery cables

Any info I can get will be greatly appreciated. I’m more just looking on what brands will operate well with stock components, but I would like to achieve a little better then OEM performance.


I can’t go to crazy money is a little tight (just bought Konig REWINDS) and in April I’m going to wrap them in BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW

Thanks in advance
Chris
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 03:17 PM
  #2  
orion84gsl's Avatar
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I had your warm start issue when I first bought mine as well. A new battery solved that completely. Have yet to have another starting issue. Have your battery load tested at a parts store. But start with the battery cables. Also chances are your coils are fine. They aren't supposed to go bad very easily. They can but shouldn't. Go with the NGK wires, they'll match the spark plugs you should be using and a new cap and rotor are always a good idea, unless you can get away with just cleaning up your old ones, but for the small cost, you might as well go new. Good luck.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 03:31 PM
  #3  
challer2000's Avatar
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Ask me about my wankel
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From: Bay City, Michigan
The battery is new. Had it tested a few weeks ago and it was fine. Can a battery test fine but there still be a problem with it?

This summer when it’s out of storage I’ll install new battery cables.
But I just got off the phone with Billy and I got
MSD Coils 8202 or 03 cant remember the number
NGK wires
Cap & Rotor

My luck I would install everything and a coil would go bad so I just figured to do it.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 04:39 PM
  #4  
Sterling's Avatar
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
This can also be a symptom of a fuel tank vent problem. (IE, charcoal canister dealy, etc.)
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 07:11 PM
  #5  
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From: Grand Rapids Michigan
New battery cables are a really good idea. And also, good choice going to Billy for parts. He'll take good care of you.

However, you should consider just getting a used 2nd gen coil pack to use for your leading ignition. And if you can afford the good plug wires, then get them.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #6  
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From: SF BayArea
I installed Magnecor 10mm plug wires in my 85GSL and noted NO improvement in performance. The 10mm won't fit in the plugwire support bracket so they just flop around, so mine hit the AC pulley and wore 1/3 through causing missing. So next time I go back to 8mm wires.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 04:01 AM
  #7  
Rotor13B's Avatar
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From: Longmont Co.
Originally Posted by challer2000
I have been having starting problems for the past couple of months with my stock LS. The engine was replaced in 2003.

Last summer had a couple of issues on warm start. Could drive it fine then would turn it off and let it sit for ten mins and it would take a couple of tries to start again.

This winter I flooded the engine almost every time trying to start it.
-I would put in the battery then go to start and every now and then it would make a grinding noise.
-Then if it didn’t flood it would take at lest 10-15 tries to get the engine to turn over. Sometimes I would have to hold the gas down or pump it to get it started.

Just replaced
Sparkplugs
Fuel filter

So I decided to call Re-speed and get a few parts that might solve my problems. I’m not knowledgeable when it comes to electrical. So from searching I decided replacing these parts wont be too complicated.

-NGK or Magnacore wires
What would you guys go with?
And if I go with the Magnacore wires should I get 8.5 or 10 mm wires
-New cap
-New Rotor
-New Coils (don’t know on exact ones yet, Just waiting for the call on which ones they can get for me)
Also latter this summer I plan on upgrading the battery cables

Any info I can get will be greatly appreciated. I’m more just looking on what brands will operate well with stock components, but I would like to achieve a little better then OEM performance.


I can’t go to crazy money is a little tight (just bought Konig REWINDS) and in April I’m going to wrap them in BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW

Thanks in advance
Chris
When was the last time you changed the oil? All those hard starts are going to eventually thin the oil. I was having a hard start problem before and changed the plugs thinking that would solve it. While it did help alot i still got the intermittent hard starting situation. Replaced the oil filter and oil and haven't had a problem since. Starts first time ever time with just a couple revolutions. One other thing, I went back to the oem filter vs. using a purolator filter, I don't know if that is relevent in your case but I figure a case of oil (6 quarts) and a new filter + 30 minutes of your time is pretty inexpensive.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 12:10 PM
  #8  
challer2000's Avatar
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Ask me about my wankel
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From: Bay City, Michigan
Kentetsu,
The only reason I didn’t go for a 2nd gen coil is because a simple swap was just more appealing to me. I don’t like to mess with electrical components.
Ended up going with the NGK… Billy doesn’t care the others anymore.

Rotor13B,
The oil was changed a week or two before storage. But I’ll check it, may need some more oil (to thickin up)

Hopefully the parts will come in a week
After install I’ll let you guys know if problem still continues.

Thanks Guys!
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 12:54 PM
  #9  
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From: SF BayArea
Get a $4 battery post cleaner at the autostore and cleanup those battery posts and the IDs of the cable clamps. Even experienced mechanics have been fooled by simple corrosion in that important connection.

Coils almost NEVER go bad. Not in 50 years of all kinds of cars have I had a coil go bad. there are no moving parts in a coil. You would have to strike a coil with a hammer to break the insulation and then saturate it in water to cause a short.

Caps and rotors DO have moving parts, namely the contact points for distributing the spark, so they can go bad. Also, they can get cruddy and require cleaning or replacement.

When you have your engine running, check the timing! You can get a decent electronic timing light for about $20 at Harborfreight now, and it's well worth it.

Many neighborhood mechanics have a gadget for checking spark strength on a 'scope and if you get your oil changed there and have them do some light mechanical work they'll probably check it for you as a favor. Most RX-7 mechanical duties can be done by any normal boinger mechanic because, except for the motor internals, it's all traditional stuff with simple middle-of-the-road engineering. Replacing struts, clutches, steering links, etc., are all familiar tasks.
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