I have been having a problem getting my 85 12a gsl (auto) to start and stay running. I have tried everything and it still won't stay running. I was wondering if it could be possible that the alternator was not working? I noticed the wire going to the "B" terminal (single wire) is loose and the black plastic washer is cracked. I can't tighten it up anymore, so if this could be the problem I will take it to an alternator shop and they will put a new screw and washer on it, Unless it is messed up. Well my question is could this be my problem? I've checked the fuel system and put a new distributer cap on, New plugs and wires, checked the igniters. I also put two new batteries in and it in the last year because after starting it a few times it goes dead. Thanks for reading, Vic

 

What's "Stay Running?" - a couple of seconds, minutes, days? What's it sound like when it stalls? Did you figure out what's draining your battery or are you just suspecting your alt's out?

 

if you're killing batteries like that its either a bad alternator or you have a power leaking to ground somewhere in your wiring. take the car to autozone or something and they will do a free alternator test for you.

 

It will stay running if I keep my foot on the gas over 2000+ rpm or keep the choke pulled out to 2000+ rpm. If I try to put it in gear it instantly dies. If I take my foot off the gas it instantly dies and the same with the choke. If I try to turn the vent blower, heater, air conditioner on, even with the rpm at 2000+ it will instantly die. I have had the timing set, the carb rebuilt, new fuel pump and relay, new fuel filter, the fuel is right in the bowl, new wires, plugs, distributer, rotor. The alternator is the only other thing I could think of. I noticed the wire looks alittle burnt where it connects to the alternator. It will stay running as long as I want it to unless I do one of the above things. I basicly am running out of ideas. Thanks, Vic

 

i had to run my camry at almost redline to keep it from dying when the alternator started going south. luckily it was a manual, so pushed the clutch in and bounced it off the rev limiter to keep charge up. barely made it home.

 

check the simple stuff first like fuel filter

 

So does that mean that it is possible that it could be the alternator? I did put a new fuel filter in. I really can't find anything else. Vic

 

One thought...
A dead alternator won't prevent it from continuing to run, but a bad connection at the alternator might. The single wire is the main one, charging the battery and running accessories. It sounds like you tried to tighten only the outer nut. The part that's moving must be the stud it's attached to.
If you remove the first nut, then the wire connector, there is another nut. That one would tighten the stud. Then replace the wire connector and the outer nut. I'm not sure if the internal connection is attached to the inner part of the stud or just another wire connector squeezed against another inner plastic washer. If it's just a wire connector inside as I suspect (similar to the round connector on the outside) and the stud is loose, it will cause an intermittent connection from the alternator even if the outer nut is tight. That would cause spikes in the voltage which would kill batteries and could definitely cause problems when you ask for more current, such as when you turn on the fan blower, as you mentioned.

If you have removed the first nut, then wire connector, and the nut against the plastic washer is the one that won't tighten, then yes, take it in for service. If you have only tried the outer nut, try the one against the plastic washer.
If the stud itself and the wire are tight and the battery terminals and grounds have been cleaned and tightened, you could make some voltage checks to narrow it down, but a load test is usually free and should pinpoint the problem.
It may or may not solve your lack of idle. There might be a vacuum leak or other problems, but that's where I would start.

-John.

 

Thanks for the reply. I know the alternator is working properly and I also know that the plastic washer that keeps the wire from grounding out on the alt. housing is cracked. I actually broke the tip of the stud off putting the wire on so the stud is shorter then it should be. I tried to put tape around it to keep it from touching but I noticed the tape was getting a burnt look to it. I used white electrical tape and it was turning brown and looks melted. I am going to take the alt. off and bring it to the electrical shop and hope they can put a new bolt and plastic washer on it. If not I will be looking for another alternator. I have been trying to get this car running for a year and have tried everything possible to get it to stay running. It has a KDR rebuilt motor and all new fuel system and mostly new electrical system. I am having a hard time figuring it out but now at least I have something else to check. It is better to have something else to check then to not know what else to do, especially when I think I have tried everything else. Well thanks for the reply. Vic