I just did a search, and couldn't find anything that was an exact match for my trouble here.

Yesterday, after work, I went to start my car. Lights came on as usual, voltmeter looked good. Turned the key for the starter, nothing. The voltmeter would drop slightly then return to normal when I released the key. Checked all the under-dash fuses, all good. Got a guy to help me push start it, and drove home.

This morning, no trouble at all. Drove into work. At lunch, wouldn't start again. Same exact symptoms. Not having any noticeable voltage problems, but I have had a nasty vibration at speeds between 50-60mph. Here's all I can come up with:

Possible starter wire loose

Anyone ever have a problem like this?

 

next time it happens hit the starter with a hammer or screwdriver. if it starts after hitting it, the starter is bad. that or just replace the starter anyways to see it that is it. it's not very hard of an install and most things like that from fisher autoparts/advanced/autozone have a lifetime warrenty and you could get a new starter for free

 

Yeah, i am having similar problems.
I had my starter checked at autozone, and it tested good.
The fuses seem to be good also.

Hopefully we will find our answer soon.

 

Stay away from autozone, pep-boy or kragen crap. lifetime warranty aint worth it when you have to a part twice a year.

 

i had the same problem... it was my battery cables.. they were very very old... (from 79) so i cleaned them up and cut off the corroded part.. and havent had a problem since.

 

Any time you see 'good-in-the-morning-crap-in-the-afternoon', you're potentially looking at a temperature related problem. In other words, my guess is that your battery terminals aren't getting a good connection and once it starts to heat up, the metal of either the battery post, or the clamp itself, allows a small gap to form that presents enough resistance to prevent good current flow. This will appear to be a bad starter, when in fact, your starter is fine, just isn't getting enough current to throw the pinion and shunt the motor connection.

Start off by removing the battery cable ends (remove ground first, then positive) and take a close look at your battery posts. The posts should be a shiny, silvery color - not dull grey or white. Any grey or white color is oxidized lead that will cause high resistance and no current will flow. Spend the $1.75 at your local parts house for a 'battery terminal cleaner' which has both inside and outside wire brushes, and give the terminals a good spin with the tool. Now, do the same to the inside of your terminal connectors (on the cables), and then apply a battery-specific conductive grease to both parts prior to reattaching.

When you go to tighten up the battery connectors, make sure that you're using the right tool so as to not damage the cable connectors, and then apply more of the conductive grease to any exposed metal on the battery post or terminal. This will prevent future oxidation of the lead.

You should have fixed the problem by now, but if you still notice that the starter seems to not engage correctly, grab a digital voltmeter and measure the resistance between the positive terminal on the starter and the positive terminal on the battery - this should be very small. If you read a high resistance, it's likely that the battery cable has some internal corrosion that's preventing current being carried. The best replacement is a new battery cable specific to the car. Aftermarket battery cables can be purchased anywhere that batteries are sold. At this same time, check your ground cables to the body (driver's side strut tower) and make sure that you have a good ground to the chassis. Replace both cables at the same time if there's any question.

My preference for battery terminal connectors are the ones sold by AutoZone and are black/red connectors with screw terminals to allow you to cut and splay the cable for best cable contact. These terminal connectors also have a thumb-screw that you can tighten down, combined with a lever arm that cinches down the connector. Simple to install, just tighten the thumb screw as much as you can by hand, and then push the lever arm down flush with the connector - this gives a tight (no-tool) installation, and can be quickly re-attached if you relube the terminal or work on your car and need to remove the battery cables.

Hope this helps, and reply back if it fixes it (I always wonder if my advice goes anywhere to keep somebody's car running!)...

 

Well, Longduck just took the words right out of my mouth (and then some)....

 

I'll try that battery cable stuff at lunch today, provided I have the tools with me. Willing to bet that's the trouble. I'll let you know if that helps out.

 

Devitek!

I think i got your answer and mine!

Check out my other post:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/starting-problem-electrical-444665/

Hope this helps!

 

I'll have to check this out too. It's been starting fine yesterday and today, though, so I really believe this to be related to the vibration I've got. Speaking of...

I've put a donut on my front left, and noticed that at speeds between 45-65 there is still vibration, but it is rhythmic--it will vibrate, then gradually stop, then gradually vibrate, then gradually stop. Gonna try to switch it to the right front at lunch, we'll see...I'm just too poor to even have my tires balanced.

 

Yaknow - your vibration could be causing the battery terminal (or ground) to become loose.

Did you check and clean the posts on the battery, yet? A vibration in the front end is really very UNlikely to be causing an inability for your car to start...

 

I know, a vibration shouldn't cause my car not to start, but it could contribute to the problem. My thoughts were the same, that it was shaking the battery posts loose...my steering wheel center hub fell off today, screws were shaken out of it. So, the car is starting again, but shakin like no other. Couldn't do the swap today, waaaaaay to hot here, but maybe tonight.

 

I had the same problem this morning on my 85GSL. So I'll check the cables etc., before putting in the spare starter. It started with a bang on the solenoid from a long pipe.

Couple years ago I had the same problem and it turned out to be that the ignition key lead jumped off the spade lug on the bendix. Put it back (and crimped it a bit) and all was well 'til today.

B

 

I just hope I don't die from a heat stroke the next time it happens. One of these days I'm going to have to get one of those things, what do they call them? Oh yeah, friends, the type with A/C garages with fans and beer. Yeah, that would be the life.

 

Sticking starter relay or bad starter. I just replaced my starter this morning.

 

I think it's a bad starter. It started giving me grief again, now if I hit it with a (fill in the blank here), I can get it to start. Can't afford to replace it, but I might try the junkyards just to see.

The vibration thing...switched the spare to the other side last night, and get the same rhythmic vibration as before. Worried now that the suspension is to blame. Is there no end in sight?

 

Well, I did some hunting and found a coupon for Tires Plus, $19.99 for rotate and balance. My girlfriend will gladly pay for that, so I will give it a try tonight. I just hope that the starter problem doesn't cause trouble!

 

just buy a new starter its like 60 bucks! omg...

 

hey now, $60 is alot when you can barely buy food...times are kinda tough. but I will be buying one, seeing as how I've exhausted all other options

 

Just FYI...pulled the bad starter, will have it benched soon but got a replacement in there and all is well. Vibration was caused by very, very bad tires. Replaced them, and all is mostly well. Thanks all for the help.

 

You can get a starter from rockauto.com for as little as $30. I used to rebuild my italian marelli starters on fiats and alfas - pretty cheap. The starter stopped working when the nose bearing wore enough for the commutator at the tail to get misaligned. So I'd open it up, clean the commutator, replace brushes, and rotate the nose bearing 90 degrees! That way one bearing works 4 times! Before re-installing the bearing balance it on your thumb and fill it up like a cup with motor oil, then press down with other thumb 'til oil oozes thru the oilite sintered bronze.

B

 

It must be raining starter problems: I have 3 lame 7s with starter problems now.

F

 

I've had starter problems with almost all of my cars. I used to think I was mistreating them, but as it turns out, it's just really bad luck. I treat my starters better than anyone else I know, and still they fail. Maybe I should treat them badly...