Stalls after driving 25 miles
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Stalls after driving 25 miles
Something is getting hot after driving about 25 to 30 miles and the 1984 gslse stalls. It won't accelerate. I park it for about 35 minutes and it drives great. I also began to hear a whinning sound just before this happens. Any ideas? Also when the outside temp is not so hot i can drive
a little further, but it still eventually stalls.
a little further, but it still eventually stalls.
#2
ancient wizard...
This could be an early pattern failure for one of the igniters on distributor or it could be a problem with fuel delivery which may or may not be related to potential igniter problem.It could be a failing fuel pump and or a plugged fuel filter from a bunch of gunk in fuel tank.
How long have you owned the car,what do you know about maintenance done on it recently...how old are spark plugs,cap and rotor and wires,fuel and air filter? How many miles on it? Are you doing your own work?
How long can you drive it after it sits for 35 minutes when you say it runs great? Next time you hear the whining sound,BEFORE it stalls,pull over and VERY slowly release the fuel cap partially to see if there's a lot of pressure in tank,if so let all the pressure off and continue driving and see if you can get farther than the 25 miles you're getting before stalling now.
Post back with some answers to above to give you some direction on how to proceed.
How long have you owned the car,what do you know about maintenance done on it recently...how old are spark plugs,cap and rotor and wires,fuel and air filter? How many miles on it? Are you doing your own work?
How long can you drive it after it sits for 35 minutes when you say it runs great? Next time you hear the whining sound,BEFORE it stalls,pull over and VERY slowly release the fuel cap partially to see if there's a lot of pressure in tank,if so let all the pressure off and continue driving and see if you can get farther than the 25 miles you're getting before stalling now.
Post back with some answers to above to give you some direction on how to proceed.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 08-20-19 at 09:24 PM.
#3
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (13)
The first thing I thought of was a dirty fuel tank. The fuel pump could be drawing sludge and built up containments around the fuel sock, chocking off the flow of fuel. After it quits, the debris fall away and dissipate until being drawn back to the strainer. A quick check might be to visually check the flow of fuel when its running, then again after the problem re occurs.
#4
ancient wizard...
Could likely be,could be a venting issue. Hoping to establish a baseline from OP to determine a direction to go,and his skillset. Near impossible to check flow on injected engine while running without substituting some type of clear fuel line,not certain it would yield any usable results. Inspecting contents of fuel filter would be more useful to determine if contaminants could be the culprit.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Stalling after short drivr
I have on the car since September 2018. The previous owner said the car was driven off and on for several years. The car is showing about 39,000 miles. I am doing my homework. Nothing has been changed on the car all original. I will check the spark plugs .the coils look to be original.I will go down your list of things . Thanks. Also the a.c. blows but not much thru the vents and is not cold.
#6
ancient wizard...
If the car runs,the coils are good.The coils on your car are Diamond coils and are better quality than anything you can buy today. They can’t go bad and start working again.
In my prior post,I suggested you replace Distributor cap and rotor,spark plugs,plug wires,air filter,fuel filter.
30k miles is interval and car is 35+ years old.
These things are consumables,for all you know they are original.This will give you a base line.
NGK spark plug wires are what came on your car,you can get a replacement set for @$15. The correct spark plugs are NGK BUR8EQ14,don’t substitute another type of spark plug- no matter what any parts guy says.
You should be able to get them pretty much anywhere.
When you replace the fuel filter,drain contents into a pan,get a paper towel and firmly tap filter onto towel from both sides. This will give a general condition of fuel tank and system.
Post pics here of what you get out of filter
In your original post you said your car was whining right before it stalled,reread my response and suggestion for what to do when that happens-before engine stalls out.
This is 1st thing you should do before doing anything else. Post back what happens-this could provide several clues to origin of your problem.
In my prior post,I suggested you replace Distributor cap and rotor,spark plugs,plug wires,air filter,fuel filter.
30k miles is interval and car is 35+ years old.
These things are consumables,for all you know they are original.This will give you a base line.
NGK spark plug wires are what came on your car,you can get a replacement set for @$15. The correct spark plugs are NGK BUR8EQ14,don’t substitute another type of spark plug- no matter what any parts guy says.
You should be able to get them pretty much anywhere.
When you replace the fuel filter,drain contents into a pan,get a paper towel and firmly tap filter onto towel from both sides. This will give a general condition of fuel tank and system.
Post pics here of what you get out of filter
In your original post you said your car was whining right before it stalled,reread my response and suggestion for what to do when that happens-before engine stalls out.
This is 1st thing you should do before doing anything else. Post back what happens-this could provide several clues to origin of your problem.
#7
Senior Member
I had loss of power at my last track days I would run hard for about 15 minutes and not be able to rev passed 3k acted like it was running out of fuel. Pull off track and the fuel pump was screaming. Just replaced the pump this week. The inlet strainer was plugged with varnish, the tank sock had a rip in it. I'd start there. I hope the pump and new inline filter i put in fix my problems.
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Stalls after 25 miles
Ok. I replaced the fuel pump and inline filter. The fuel drained from the filter was dirty. I replaced the pump and inline filter. Same problem except the whinning sound is a lot louder and starts much sooner. I was just idiling in the drive way for about 10 minutes
and the whinning started at the fuel pump.I am going to clean the tank and and replace hoses and check the check and cut off valve .
and the whinning started at the fuel pump.I am going to clean the tank and and replace hoses and check the check and cut off valve .
#9
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
The fact the car has so few miles means it has sat. A lot. And unless correctly stored, the tank, with partial and/or untreated fuel could, if lucky, sludge up. Worse, in a moist environment, water condensation will create rust which will be constantly stuffing off into the fuel.
Drop the tank, have a good rad shop chem-dunk it in their cleaning tanks, then buy the POR15 fuel tank restoration kit, which treats and seals the insides of the tank. Your prob sounds (as Banzai suggested) like what I had with mine too. PITA to fix, but all signs point to this...
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Drop the tank, have a good rad shop chem-dunk it in their cleaning tanks, then buy the POR15 fuel tank restoration kit, which treats and seals the insides of the tank. Your prob sounds (as Banzai suggested) like what I had with mine too. PITA to fix, but all signs point to this...
Stu A
80GS
AZ
#11
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
^ I'm with him as to the fuel pump noise...
That whining can be caused by cavitation within the pump from not being able to get good input, or from a constriction down the line that limits pump output. Either way, it's fuel related, and likely on the tank side.
My SE pump is nearly silent in operation, compared to standard engine noise from the exhaust (RB PP +header).
My SE pump is nearly silent in operation, compared to standard engine noise from the exhaust (RB PP +header).
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