grandgarson

I have an 80 rx7 with an engine from an 83. My question is which spark plugs do I need to use the one for an 80 to match the ignition or the ones for an 83. I'm guessing that the engine is the same and it just needs to match the ignition, but not positive on that. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

83. They should all be the same IIRC, but I know when I had my 79 it ran colder plugs.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

racing beat site has nice little "discussion" about plug types, IIRC - worth a read. Under ignition section in rotary area...
I _believe_ they do spec a diff plug for the FB engines ...??
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

grandgarson

I went ahead and got plugs for an 83, since that's all they had at the parts store and from what I've seen it sounds like either would work ok. I checked the racing beat site and it looks like they just classify them for different types of driving, and they're all the same for all fist gens. Now I just need to figure out why it won't start. It died on me the other day. It cut out and I pumped the gas and it revved back up but then when I stepped on the clutch and brake at the intersection it just died and wouldn't start back up. I toed it home and figured it was a good time to change out the plugs, wires, cap and rotor since it was long over due (when I pulled the first plug wire off the tip broke off since it was so corroded). I thought that would get it running again, but no such luck. I changed the fuel filter but not the fuel pump (I could hear the fuel pump working and I just changed it a few months back). Seems like it's just not getting gas and it's really confusing me. At first I thought it was flooded like it usually is when it won't start, but I found that when I pumped the gas or used starting fluid it got closer to starting up. Hoping to figure it out tomorrow, but if anyone has any suggestions they will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

since ur dealing with 2 different yrs, u buy for the yr of what ur buying parts for. buying for the engine, 83. buying for the car, 80.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

is the distributor and 80 or 83. If its an 80 try replacing the points, if its and 83 electronic distributor. check the igniters. All an engine needs to run is fuel (air/gas), spark, compression, and timing. Its easy to see if your getting fuel with a carb. you can check the sight glass, pump the gas while looking down the carb, pull the fuel line place in a bottle and turn to the on position. spark is easy just grab each plug wire and a used spark plug ground the plug and turn engine over. compression is easy pull a spark plug and turn engine over. listen for three whooshes on each rotor housing. Narrow down what your missing. doubt your timing is off to far to run. the 12A can run on some odd ball timing.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Just to clarify, the '80 is electronic ignition as well. Only difference is that the ignitors are mounted remotely. The '79 is the only points based 1st gen.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

You want to match the plug type to the housing type. IIRC, later engines used a physically different plug than the earlier engines.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The SA plugs are 3 prong, the FB plugs are 4 prong. I don't think you'll have issues with either one.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Isn't there a change in outer diameter/required socket as well? I'm going from memory here (I've only owned SA) , but I thought the 81 and later engines required a thinwall socket and the plug was physically smaller, as well.

EDIT: apparently the plug is the same size, but the housing became more restrictive, requiring a smaller socket outside diameter; RB's site lists the same plug application from 74 through 85.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

some plugs have a short shell and due to the extension on the housing around the plug, requires the special socket that rb and mazdatrix sells.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

I didn't know that. I thought the distributers were the same on the SA's. Learn somthing new every day. My bad for the mis info.

Rotor loco

the best spark plus is NGK-V9 EV that for stock engine

grandgarson

Finally got it started. Now when I start it I have to pump the gas the whole time I'm starting it until it starts. Also, it has an oil pressure issue. It has an aftermarket gauge in it and at first I was hoping it was a problem with the gauge, but it just seems like it would be too much of a coincidence. The oil pressure seems very spuratic. It doesn't go up and down with the RPMs like it did before. Now it seems to lag when I rev up the engine and then goes up then back down some. I'm guessing that's a pretty good sign that the oil pump is going out.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

my oil pressure gauge is kind of retarded. it usually works normal but sometimes it goes up to 110psi when accelerating. I think its just the gauge. it happens every so often. maybe its just your stock gauge?

I had the same problem with hard starts. I fixed it by advancing my timing a bit and a full tune up. You may want to give seafoam in the gastank a shot. 1 bottle to about an 1/8th tank and run the **** out of it. I'd change fuel filter before and after, if its been awhile. if its newer just replace it after. I'd also check to see your fuel pump output.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

The 80 models can either use the 3 or 4 prong plug. Being the BR8ET or BR8EQ-14.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

slightly off topic, but simi related. I have 2gcdfis and run 2nd gen plugs (BUR7EQ) someone said I should still be running stock plugs. what would be better. the way I have it or stock plugs?

grandgarson

Yea, I think after payday I'm gonna take it in and get it tuned up (then again I've done everything except adjust the carb and timing). I just put a new fuel filter on and the fuel pump is only about 6 months old.

I'm just wondering if the timing is going to be sort of like an old Datsun pickup I had, where I could adjust it and get it running best just by playing with it and listening. Every time I got that thing tuned up somewhere I had to readjust the timing because they set it to the factory default and it ran like crap set like that. I've seen a lot of talk about the weird timing settings that can work with these cars so I'm wondering if that's the best way to set it.

grandgarson

LOL, looks like there's not much point to dealing with any of the problems anymore. Pretty sure I blew an apex seal. I guess that means my girlfriend wins, and I'll be getting a different car. lol I was coming up the hill to my house the other day and heard a clunk and then a kind of rattling for a minute. I didn't think much of it at first cause I knew the throw out bearing was going out and figured maybe that's what it was, but when I got home I checked it out a little bit and it's clearly an issue with the engine. There's almost no throttle response and a lot of vibration from the engine. On the brighter side it does seem to idle smoothly for the first time since I've owned the car (but it idles at about 1500 RPM). lol It still drives well enough that I'm still driving to work and back since it just a short distance, and for emergencies. I just put gas in it before it happened and I'm bound and determined to use up the gas.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

It could be an igniter. I thought I blew my engine once. But only for a few minutes. I sat on the side of the freeway found it wasn't getting leading spark, swapped in the trailing igniter. started up and drove fine. Don't let your girlfriend win. My girl knows better than to badmouth the seven. I love the car unconditionally, she can screw it up.