hanman

What's the difference, if any, between an NGK BR8EQ and an BR8ET?
Thanks,
hanman

ScruffyChimp

Hi.

At the NGK website there is an Acrobat file that explains what all the codes mean. As luck would have it, I have that sitting on my hard disk.

NGK - brandname
B - 14mm thread diameter
R - Resistor type
8 - The heat rating
E - 19mm thread reach

and the final letters:

Q - 4 ground electrode
T - 3 ground electrode

Perhaps someone else can explain how important that difference is. I haven't got a clue.

Bye,
ScruffyChimp

hanman

Thanks,
dave

Pele

iTrader: (28)

So... The only things we need to worry about are B, E and the heat range.

Wonder if we can loose the resistor and convert to side fire for an uber hot spark.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Lose the "R" and you'd better have some serious plug wires like Magnecors or your stereo will pay the price as well as any on-board ECU's if present...

Pele

iTrader: (28)

What'd happen if you got non resistor plugs and just ran some large gague regular copper wire? The hot spark would help ya out, wouldn't it??? Eh?

Magnecor wire??? What's the resistance per foot of that? I think MSD sells crimp your own type wire thats 50 ohms per foot. Mount your coils to the strut tower, run 6 inches of cable, and you're in for some good sparkin.

peejay

After I put in my MSD, even using quality plug wires and resistor plugs (had no luck with the Yaw-recommended plugs anyway, they erode way too fast) I could not get AM reception or use my radar detector. Just too much RFI.

It was neat to swtich the radio to AM and drive around with the windows open and stereo cranked... lots of funny stares

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Use OO welding cable and then you could claim to have 2 Ohms/ft! The thing that MSD, Accel (what I'm using now and they seem to work fine--the 300+ series) and splitfire don't tell you directly is that their 50 Ohm/ft conductor is wound tightly around a strength core and then covered with a GRAPHITE composition "shielding". What do you think is actually conducting the current in that case? Even after it quickly burns out, the conductive windings, which are indeed possessed of 50 Ohm/ft resistance, are wound almost 175-200 times in a single foot. I'm pretty sure they use more than a foot of conductor to accomplish that and that number is your real resistance property for that ignition wire.
Peejay--->try the Accel 300+ 10 mm wires. If that doesn't do it, MSD makes the choke that's supposed to cure that problem with their boxes. They are definitely aware of it.

hanman

mar3, how did you mount your subs? I see that you have an 80 like I do, and they have no storage bins.
Thanks,
hanman

mar3

iTrader: (8)

I'll toss out this part of the reply to the public because it may be useful to someone. Even if you have no bins, the area under that carpet is completely empty. It's a strengthening measure that's really not necessary since the steel monocoque shell of the body is already quite stiff even if you've got a sunroof hole. Try jacking a corner real high and watch the whole side of the vehicle lift off the wheels to see what I mean. Just cut your holes into those spots. You'll still have to fab some kind of baffle for your subs to bolt onto because the steel there is "waffled." It's also galvanized and overlaps in the center so avoid that area. I went through it with a Rotozip and a lot of their universal cut bits. Jigsaw might work, but it'll be bouncin' all over the place as you get deeper into the cut. The steel is flimsy once it loses it support from all sides. Have fun...