I have a stock port 76 13b with a holley 600 racing beat intake racing beat full race header duel 2 1/4 in pipe to old *** rb muffler electronic ignition air cooled oil cooler and a blaster coil going into my car... what heat range of plugs should I run in this thing? I think I was running NGK b8's in my last motor... I want to pull as much power as possable out of this thing... I never got to play with maney different kinds of plugs before... not at $20 a set

 

BUMP... COME ON I NEED TO ORDER THEESE D@MN things...

 

This subject has been discussed in depth. The bottom line seems to be:

1-plugs don't effect power except if they are defective
2-if plugs are too hot the porcelin burns and the insulator shorts out causing loss of power
3-if too cold the insulator loads up with oil and the plugs foul resulting in loss of power

If your current plugs don't look fouled or burned they are OK

B

 

I read to run trailing FC plugs on all four corners (BRQ7?), but didn't really notice a difference.

 

I used to use NGK but switched to Nippon Densu. They seem to foul less. The only plugs that sucked are the ones with only 1 prong.

 

Thanks thats what I needed to know... when I had my last motor in here the were a bunch of guys that were talking about pulling better hp numbers running low octain gas and was just wondering of a hotter or colder spark would help me pull better numbers... the plugs that are in the car now are LITERALLY about 15 years old and are the crappy 1 prong... I think its time to change them .... thanks again

 

Woah, I thought peejay and I held the record for the oldest plugs still in service. His are older with higher mileage but I can't remember exactly how old/much. The engine was rebuilt back in '95 and wracked up 7k miles before I got it in '97. The PO told me it was only 7k, but I suspect it was more. They were never changed during that time to the best of my knowledge. I think they now have at least 10k miles on them, but again that's just speculation. The center electrodes are nice and round. They're NGK BR8EQ-14s.

 

Speaking of FC plugs, I tried them in my '73 RX-2 rotor housings. They seem to poke through further toward the rotor faces than the BR8EQ-14s do. These engines are supposed to use B7EM (two prong) plugs with points. Also, the plug is very far away from the faces as well. There's plenty of distance for some reason. I'm thinking the FC plugs in the Leading holes ought to help bring the sparks closer to the rotor faces. I'll start off with BR8EQ-14s at first because that's what I've got on hand, but I'll try some BUR9EQ (T) in the Leading holes after the engine is broken in so I can feel if there's a power gain.

 

One more post and I'm outta this thread, I promise.

I'm running BR8EQ-14s in my '76 13B which run much better than the stock B7ETs. FB electronic dizzy with DLIDFIS.

Here's a quick and easy way to remember which plug goes where in an FC (other than looking at it for the L or T which is printed near the BURxxx etc).

Anyone here remember the group called L7? Well, there you go: BUR7EQ is for Leading. Also, the FC was sold during the year 1990. There you go: BUR9EQ is for Trailing. Get it? 9T?

 

mine had 10k at my last oil change, but every oil change i pull them out blow the plugs out w/ low pressure air and glass bead them, blow out again and there ready to go

 

by the way i use ngk's and have no complaints

 

Wire wheel or wire brush here.

 

I just bought some NGK BR8ES plugs, all around, and I am happy with them.

 

i use to do that before the ship yard made my life easier, guess i shouldn't thank them though

 

I have been using B-8ES,with good results..i change them every 500 miles anyway.