some kind of hiccup in ignition at 6k. could it be a ignitor.
#1
some kind of hiccup in ignition at 6k. could it be a ignitor.
im going down 394 about a hour ago heading to the grocery store. My friend is with me. Hes like, how stable is this thing at speed.
I dont answer, just down shift to 3rd jump start at about 4700, the thing climbs pretty quick up to 5500 then starts to stutter. It hits 6000 and wont budge, even with my foot to the floor. it sounded kind of like it was missing.
on my way home I ran it hard, with 7500 shifts all the way to 7000 in forth. no stutter and felt stong as hell. what could that stutter have been.
3 days ago I reset my timing to 24 leading@4000+ and I dropped the split as short as it would go(just pulled the vaccume thing all the way out.
could I have moved the trailing to far. I was haveing trouble sliding it smoothly so I just shortened it all the way. I used a advancing timing light to make the adjustments. the weird thing was that the timing light advance **** had 2 sets of numbers, one for engine advance and one for distributor speed advance. I went with the distributor one, the other didnt work. this was the right one because I checked base timing (20@4000 and the dizzy scale was correct)
I dont answer, just down shift to 3rd jump start at about 4700, the thing climbs pretty quick up to 5500 then starts to stutter. It hits 6000 and wont budge, even with my foot to the floor. it sounded kind of like it was missing.
on my way home I ran it hard, with 7500 shifts all the way to 7000 in forth. no stutter and felt stong as hell. what could that stutter have been.
3 days ago I reset my timing to 24 leading@4000+ and I dropped the split as short as it would go(just pulled the vaccume thing all the way out.
could I have moved the trailing to far. I was haveing trouble sliding it smoothly so I just shortened it all the way. I used a advancing timing light to make the adjustments. the weird thing was that the timing light advance **** had 2 sets of numbers, one for engine advance and one for distributor speed advance. I went with the distributor one, the other didnt work. this was the right one because I checked base timing (20@4000 and the dizzy scale was correct)
#4
Hunting Skylines
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I'd be wary of using advance dials on a rotary. The spark plugs on a piston engine fire every 720* of crank rotation while on a rotor they fire ever 360*. This means you have to double the figures to obtain the correct amount of advance.
Another thing is the split. N/A rotaries unlike turbos like some degree of split. You really shouldn't drop it below about 8*.
Another thing is the split. N/A rotaries unlike turbos like some degree of split. You really shouldn't drop it below about 8*.
#5
Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
I had studder up high in the RPM rage for about a week, and it progressivly got worse. It was a fuel filter .
~T.J.
I had studder up high in the RPM rage for about a week, and it progressivly got worse. It was a fuel filter .
~T.J.
#7
When i changed my fuel system a while back, I changed from the stock style filter to this gigantic ford f350 one.
its like 4inches in diamater and 3 inches long, and I recently replaced it( a month or so) so I dont beleive that is it.
Like I said in my post, I used distributor rpm, which is double that of normal(barely moved the distributor anyways. I am going to lengthen the trailing gap alittle and see what happens.
its like 4inches in diamater and 3 inches long, and I recently replaced it( a month or so) so I dont beleive that is it.
Like I said in my post, I used distributor rpm, which is double that of normal(barely moved the distributor anyways. I am going to lengthen the trailing gap alittle and see what happens.
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