Snot Auto!!
01-10-06, 10:09 PM
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Snot Auto!!
Last week I posted a thread about buying a 79 sight unseen(for 43 bucks) except 2 pics and had some concerns about it being an automatic. Yesterday I went and dug it out of a huge snowbank to find it's a 5-speed!! The salvage auction had wrongly labelled it an auto but it'Snot. The rest of the car isn't any better than those first pics but I did manage to get it running tonight(barely).After about five minutes of lots o'choke it did kinda settle into a rough idle about 800 rpm.Almost zero throttle response off idle and unwillingness to rev freely. This is my first rotary experience and I'm not certain how they sound or feel but it feels similar to an inline 4 not firing at all on 1 and missing on a 2nd hole too. I haven't pulled the plugs or checked spark yet but I figure I should compression test this bad boy before I do anything at all. How much compression should this beast have? What would be considered to be the lowest compression before a rebuild is eminent? The rest of the car? Front end smashed, rusty quarters, bagged interior---Man it's Beautiful... 
01-10-06, 10:33 PM
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you may want to check out the online manual ..better yet compression test procedure,I'm sure that KEVIN's site has it www.rotaryressurection.com and the info found on the forum alone is Priceless..(stuff that you would never find in any manual)..I believe I welcomed you to the forum earlier..(for your first post)..the thing that would help you most is to READ.and the second READ more!!!..(trust me you'll find your car very interesting,and addictive!)..hope I helped you (comp check info tells you how much compression is good,average and bad/rebuild )..misterstyx69
01-10-06, 10:43 PM
#4
Savanna Rx-7
congrats on the fire up :)
Getting her started is the first part... first clean your plugs, rotor cap, rotor try to get her running half way correctly, then do a compression check.
if you are useing a piston engine compression tested, you need to remove the
schrader valve from the end of the tester, get a fresh battery check your cables,
start car, warm it up to normal operating temps
pull the wires form the coils to the dizzy
pull the leading spark plugs have someone hold the throttle wide open, and crank for about 15 seconds, watch the needle it will bounce from 0 to whatever.
you need to watch it for 3 bounces to get a complete reading on all three faces of the rotor.
you are primarily watching to see if all of the bounces are the same (approximately) any major deviations, ie: 1 strong followed by two weak ones indicates a bad, or stuck apex seal and requires a rebuild.
other than that compare the approximate numbers against the other rotor, and read the FAQ at the top of the page.
cheers
kenn
if you are useing a piston engine compression tested, you need to remove the
schrader valve from the end of the tester, get a fresh battery check your cables,
start car, warm it up to normal operating temps
pull the wires form the coils to the dizzy
pull the leading spark plugs have someone hold the throttle wide open, and crank for about 15 seconds, watch the needle it will bounce from 0 to whatever.
you need to watch it for 3 bounces to get a complete reading on all three faces of the rotor.
you are primarily watching to see if all of the bounces are the same (approximately) any major deviations, ie: 1 strong followed by two weak ones indicates a bad, or stuck apex seal and requires a rebuild.
other than that compare the approximate numbers against the other rotor, and read the FAQ at the top of the page.
cheers
kenn
01-11-06, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldwing
Last week I posted a thread about buying a 79 sight unseen(for 43 bucks) except 2 pics and had some concerns about it being an automatic. Yesterday I went and dug it out of a huge snowbank to find it's a 5-speed!! The salvage auction had wrongly labelled it an auto but it'Snot. The rest of the car isn't any better than those first pics but I did manage to get it running tonight(barely).After about five minutes of lots o'choke it did kinda settle into a rough idle about 800 rpm.Almost zero throttle response off idle and unwillingness to rev freely. This is my first rotary experience and I'm not certain how they sound or feel but it feels similar to an inline 4 not firing at all on 1 and missing on a 2nd hole too. I haven't pulled the plugs or checked spark yet but I figure I should compression test this bad boy before I do anything at all. How much compression should this beast have? What would be considered to be the lowest compression before a rebuild is eminent? The rest of the car? Front end smashed, rusty quarters, bagged interior---Man it's Beautiful...
Hey, another Manitoban! Welcome aboard! Autopac auction?
01-11-06, 06:54 PM
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Well today with knowledge gained from reading some of Felix's Own FAQ's I compression tested it. Rear rotor-3 uniform pulses around 55 psi-too low, probably indicating very worn but not blown apex seals ? Front rotor-1 pulse around 45 psi and 2 nothings(almost), 1 Blown seal and two wore out? Anyway I guess it won't cost anything to rip it out and take a look, hopefully won't find any rotor or housing damage and get away with new apex and side seals. If there is other damage I'm not sure I'll proceed.Long road ahead...
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01-11-06, 07:12 PM
#8
Wooo there guy, the seals may be just stuck from sitting, pour some MMO into the carburetor whilst its running and let it run until it clears the MMO out, will make a LOT of smoke, then test it again, your seals have a spring behind them that can get stuck from sitting unused for a long time.....
01-11-06, 09:20 PM
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I definitly would have changed the filters...done an oil change...cleaned the plugs...and dry spun it a couple times before I just started it raw like that especially since it sat for awhile...
