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hi guys, so i plan on going to my first auto cross this sunday (depending on how things turn out for methis weekend) and i remember hearing about this car having snap back oversteer problems, how do i fix this? its going to be a tight parking lot and id rather not suddenly slam into something. i heard that getting rid of the rear sway bar helps prevent this. is this true?
ill be thinkiing about that for sure, but that doesnt help short term, i swear i read somewhere that removal of the rear sway bar helped alot. does anyone know if it does or not?
Is this your first ever autox? If it is, my advice would be to not worry about your car beyond making sure your battery is properly held in place, you don't have loose crap in your interior and you have air in your tires. Oh, and have fun. Assuming a properly designed course, you won't hit anything even if you encounter the dreaded "snap-oversteer."
My first autox was in in 1986, in the rain. I was driving a 1969 Fairlane 2dr hardtop on BFG T/As! During that same time, RX7s were pretty common. In fact, the GSL/SE was the the car to have in C Stock and the common fix for those cars was to install a Racing Beat sway bar on the front and leave the rear bar attached.
Part of combating snap oversteer is knowing that its common on our cars under hard cornering, and what it feels like to be just on the edge of it. Once you get that sensation, it's about managing the balance of the car with steering and throttle to keep it going where you want it. I ran my 80LS in Street prepared SCCA and never had a problem with it. That car ran stock suspension until I upgraded to RB front and rear stabilizers, with the rear bar set to middle of the range.
Those parts eventually moved to my 84SE, and the 1cm lower mounting point for the rear lower control arms helps control snap oversteer even further. Once you k ow its there, snap oversteer is part of the fun of driving such a light car.
The cause of the snap oversteer in 1st gen RXs is the factory wats link assy has solid bonded bushings and when u corner hard one way then corner fast in oposite direction the bushes wound up for firsr hard rurn act as a spring when you change direction causing a snap overstear and usually loss of control. There is 2 ways to remady problem . Fit a race type adjustable centre watts link kit. Or u can loosten the 4 arm bolts and 1 pivot nut just enough for them to pivot freely and drill a 1/8 hole through the nuts and bolts and fit a splitpin through them to stop nuts undoing them selves. I did this on my first RX7 race car end it stoped the snap oversteer . Plus remove the rear sway bar .
Is this your first ever autox? If it is, my advice would be to not worry about your car beyond making sure your battery is properly held in place, you don't have loose crap in your interior and you have air in your tires. Oh, and have fun. Assuming a properly designed course, you won't hit anything even if you encounter the dreaded "snap-oversteer."
My first autox was in in 1986, in the rain. I was driving a 1969 Fairlane 2dr hardtop on BFG T/As! During that same time, RX7s were pretty common. In fact, the GSL/SE was the the car to have in C Stock and the common fix for those cars was to install a Racing Beat sway bar on the front and leave the rear bar attached.
+1. the driver is the most important part of the race car, work on that
I've never heard anyone advocate the use of a Panhard rod over a Watts linkage in any application. Watts roll-centres are much more adjustable and the Watts splits the side-loads between two chassis points rather than the one mount of the Panhard rod.
I'd be very interested to hear what kind of testing went into the comparative assessment.
1) The T3 panhard has a number of flaws, the worst being that it bolts to the shock mount which is not strengthened for lateral forces. People who run that part hard (and i don't mean hard parking), bend the mount or break it off entirely.
2) The factory watts is fine if you don't lower the car more than an inch and you stick to running street tires. This also assumes you have fresh bushings (rubber, not poly urethane).
3) Watts is better than Panhard provided both are installed with a proper roll center for the ride height. If you lower your Rx7 significantly, the factory watts or a panhard using factory mounting points does not provide a proper roll center. You are looking at custom work to get it perfect, and no one offers a bolt on kit.
To the OP, best advice is to go to the event and have fun with what you have. Go through your organization's safety check points (tires have plenty of tread, battery is properly secured, brake fluid is fresh, pads and rotors are in good shape). Don't worry about snap oversteer, you probably won't find the limits on your first event, especially not with street tires, stock sway bars, stock springs, and stock shocks. The car is going to understeer in stock form until you start adding sticky rubber, and stiffer suspension components.
Biggest thing when starting out in autox IMO. Is to have your RX7 up to date with maintenance items, tires with decent tread (no need for slicks or 200TW just starting out), fresh brake fluid, good rotors/pads, battery secured. You most likely not find this snap oversteer concern until you begin to reach the limits of your current set-up. You need to get "seat time" to learn how your car reacts and responds to your inputs, then after awhile start making upgrades and adjustments from there. I would recommend you set your tire pressure at 32PSI front and rear, then chalk your side walls (experienced drivers at event can help you/and normally as willing to help), see the results; and adjust pressure as needed. You will learn to drive better quicker from having a low HP/torque car because any "faults" in your driving means slower times; can make it in a straight line. Most of all just enjoy it.
well, ok thanks for the tips guys! and yeah i plan on just having fun, this isnt an officially hosted even as far as i know, its just something my local college in a small town is doing. the course is SUPER small in all aspects. but...most importabtly its also tight on either side. with concrete parking lot dividers that i doubt will be removed, thats why i was asking about the snap back oversteer, i figure like others have said, in an open parking lot, who cares. spin out and be embarassed XD, the course is going to be so small i seriously wonder if ill be getting her in second even lol. i think i will.
i think this is a "for fun event" ill probably be the oldest car there by far since most of these are college students that have 350/360z, mustanges, WRXs. saw a miata around campus (i work at said campus)
im doing my transmission and diff fluid tomorrow. oil is fine, coolant is fine. etc.
