1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Smoother shifting

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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Wink Smoother shifting

What can I do to make my shifting smoother because it's very rough and when I shift is like the gears are hitting each other or something. I can't get second gear in at all unless I slow down to like 20 mph then it goes in but very rough. What could it be and how can I make the shifting smoother all around? 84 gs new clutch new master cylinder
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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sounds like the syncros (sp) in your tranny arn't to good. some people a 60/40 mix of gear oil and atf to help with that. i have not done it but i hear it helps with the worn syncros.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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That's probably about what I'm running in mine (was 50/50, then some was drained and replaced with straight gear oil). Made a tremendous difference.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kutukutu1
84 gs new clutch new master cylinder
New slave cylinder also?
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 11:30 PM
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No the slave is not new, it's the original one, you think it could be that?
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:29 AM
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If your clutch isn't getting completely out, it can make shifting very difficult.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:30 AM
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Not sure why....seems like when you do one, the other is right behind. That is why I try and do both at the same time.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kutukutu1
No the slave is not new, it's the original one, you think it could be that?
Yes. Slave and master clutch cylinders are parts I get from Mazdatrix (OEM). If you can find Tokico brand some where else, you have the OEM parts. Other brands may work OK, but I found many don't last long. Check the condition of the rubber hose that connects to your slave. Not much to replace it with a braided steel one.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 11:44 AM
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Thanks ill get a slave repair kit and replace it just to be sure.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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There are differing opinions, but I don't rebuild the cylinders. To do it correctly the inside of the bore should be honed straight and smooth. That is beyond my skills to do with confidence. I always buy a new one or one I know is from a running, working system. I rebuilt one once and replaced it within a few months. I have talked with many owners who have had a similar experience. Not saying it can't be done, but I'd rather pay for a new one and be sure I won't be doing it again for many years.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 01:05 AM
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and alot of new ones come with lifetime warranty's
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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Try the fluid first. It sounds like a problem inside the box, not in the clutch or gearchange departments. I haven't done ATF, but folks here seem to like it. What worked for me was a mix of good synthetic gear oil and a little less than a quart of really thick Lucas gear oil (the one with the semi pictured on the front - I forget the numbers on it.)
Also, to downshift into any gear, put it in neutral, take your foot off the clutch pedal and rev the engine to the approximate rpm it would be at if it were already in the gear you are trying to get into. Then, before the revs fall back down, stab the clutch and it'll go into gear like a hot knife into butter - syncro or no syncro (and if you do it right, no clutch stab needed). You probably already know this technique, but I think it bears repeating because I never see anyone doing it when I ride shotgun in manual-equipped cars. This is not just a racing technique, matched-rev shifting is good for your trans!
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 07:50 AM
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I switched to Redline gear oil, and my rough shifts went away.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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My guesses:

1. Failure to properly bleed system after installation of M/C.
2. Slave cylinder going bad causing loss of pressure in system.
3. Clutch adjustment is too far out, not allowing full disengagement of clutch.
4. Worn synchros (50/50 solution works great).
5. Your shifting technique could use some work?

Good luck...
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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if it were a problem with teh clutch hydraulics you would feel a weak or over stiff pedal. your problem seems to be internal as other have suggested. check the fluid level first. replace it witha good synthetic and see what happens.. seems that it may already be too far gone.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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rev matching helps alot for me, I've driven a few sticks and they're smooth as butter (Often didnt even need the clutch to shift just playing with the throttle when putting it in gear...

The fb was "my" first stick car I drove often, its often stiff to shift but not that bad :S
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Deutsch
Try the fluid first. It sounds like a problem inside the box, not in the clutch or gearchange departments. I haven't done ATF, but folks here seem to like it. What worked for me was a mix of good synthetic gear oil and a little less than a quart of really thick Lucas gear oil (the one with the semi pictured on the front - I forget the numbers on it.)
Also, to downshift into any gear, put it in neutral, take your foot off the clutch pedal and rev the engine to the approximate rpm it would be at if it were already in the gear you are trying to get into. Then, before the revs fall back down, stab the clutch and it'll go into gear like a hot knife into butter - syncro or no syncro (and if you do it right, no clutch stab needed). You probably already know this technique, but I think it bears repeating because I never see anyone doing it when I ride shotgun in manual-equipped cars. This is not just a racing technique, matched-rev shifting is good for your trans!
Before there were synchro rings this was how it was done up shift and down
shift. I do it by habit because I know it will save a lot of wear on the tranny. Its
often call double clutching.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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My transmission was shifting fine, but since I just bought the car, this weekend I put Royal Purble gear oil that is 50% gear oil and 50% ATF already mixed in the can. It definately shifts smoother now especially when downshiting. I think it was worth the cost.

On a side note, I have an FC tranmission and found that 2 quarts did not do the trick, it ended up taking 2.6 quarts.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 74RX4
Other brands may work OK, but I found many don't last long.
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

He's right, OEM only.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 04:46 PM
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So which brand should i get?
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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he just said OEM... and i would use OEM or are you wondering what brands of fluid to use?
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