1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Slow after 5K rpm

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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 09:31 PM
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Slow after 5K rpm

Alrighty!
-85 GSL
-12A carby, stock Nikki
-All stock with exception of air pump being gutted (no vanes, but still in place for appearance/belt on WP reasons) & blocked off air passage to cat (aftermarket cat w/o bung for split air pipe
-former automatic, converted to manual. Vacuum half-re done for manual (no switching valve, or richer solenoid that's specific to the manual. Plumbing up near WP changed to manual spec however.
-Timed correctly per FSM
-secondarys I believe to be working, based on:
1) spring linkage on rear of carb is all hooked up/assembled as should be.
2) secondaries are smooth operating by hand, & not binding. depressing throttle 100% makes them open ~1/3 the way open
3) vacuum actuation diaphram working, via the remove, and close port & see if lever holds test.
-High 7's (bar) @ 315 RPM all faces compression via mazda compression tester.
-stock exhaust w/ exception of catalytic section being replaced w/ aftermarket cats. Appeared clear & un-obstructing on inspection during manual swap
-I did seafoam the car & that seemed to help. I also removed the OMP in favor of premixing as I prefer it for lubrication purposes.

Here's what IS wrong, or yet to be addressed

-leaky carb body, saturated looking, especially around accelerator pump/lower base flange of carb
-haven't yet changed fuel filter. Haven't inspected inside of tank, or pump. Also don't know fuel pressure. All these are on-the-list.
-haven't opened carb, but DO intend to unless it's an easier fix

My symptoms, is the car is just plane sluggish after about 5k, or around the time the secondaries come fully online. I mean good lord, you're just watching the rpms creeeeeeeeeeep up to redline, it's sooo painfully slow. It's like, first gen RX7 up until 5k, and then, geo metro from that point onwards.

I hope I've provided enough info to at least steer me in the next directions. It's definitely GETTING THERE, but some guidance would help as I'm much more keen on the 86+ EFI systems for now. haha

Thanks!

Landon
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 06:06 AM
  #2  
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Replace secondary vacuum diaphragm. You could take a bread tie and wire up the secondaries for mechanical. Drive and see if they open. If so, it is indeed the diaphragm.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
well if you have ruled out any physical obstruction, plugged exhaust, etc then it is either a spark or fuel problem.

step 1; is to change the fuel filter, the fuel system doesn't have a lot of margin, so a small restriction at the fuel filter is a big deal.

step 2; i like to look at the ignition. spark plugs should be newish. cap and rotor should be perfect. check the wires, i think the spec is 7k ohms, new wires are like 3.5k, the higher the resistance = less spark energy.

step 3: usually not needed!
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 10:34 AM
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Awesome thanks guys I'll dig into this tonight!!!
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 06:46 PM
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Slapped a new fuel filter in after work, no change still! On to the plug wires
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 09:55 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Landon303
Slapped a new fuel filter in after work, no change still! On to the plug wires
i just, measure with, ohm, meter, because, i'm cheap
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Landon303
the car is just plane sluggish after about 5k, or around the time the secondaries come fully online.
+1 on fuel filter first. Simple, cheap, and important. Also look over the hoses around the fuel pump and filter, make sure they are in good shape, not dried our or kinked due to incompetent PO filter install. Wasn't the culprit in your case apparently but it's a common problem.

Keep in mind, stock secondaries do NOT open based on RPM, they open based on the combination of engine load (controlled by vacuum) & throttle position. May be that they are not opening fully due to a binding linkage, or not staying open due to a leak in the diaphragm as noted above. Real hard to judge what they are doing since there's no easy way you can see them work under load conditions.

Wiring them to open mechanically will insure they will open, but they will do so every time you stroke the throttle regardless of need, and your gas mileage will fall pretty dramatically.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 01:57 PM
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My wiring the secondaries suggestion was as a way to see if the secondaries are indeed opening.
If they do, with the wire, it's a confirmation of the diaphragm leaking.

That said, using only the throttle return spring without the emergency return spring, my throttle is very light and offers some resistance at full primary. It's like having an easily useable switch for the secondaries. Which I like.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Cookboy
My wiring the secondaries suggestion was as a way to see if the secondaries are indeed opening.
If they do, with the wire, it's a confirmation of the diaphragm leaking.
It's a good plan!
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 12:07 PM
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OK I wired the secondaries to mechanical, and wow, it actually continues to accelerate. So I think it's safe to say I've found the issue!! Fuel consumption is around 19 now, still crappy, but bearable. Thanks all!!!
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 02:46 PM
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Hallelujah!
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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I think it's safe to say Cookboy found the issue lol
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 03:17 PM
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Most def. Thanks you guys ALL RULE!!!!!!
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