jkann

I have a 84 rx7 it has 70000 on it don't drive it much but I did the other day and my clutch cylinder went, My question is this is the 2nd one in a year and a half is this normal or do I have a problem thanks

TEAM GO FAST

That sounds high to me. Does the fluid in the master look dark ??. In what i've found out is when the fluid turns dark, that means somewhere in the system has failed. Do you rebuild, or replace with new ?? ( remanu'ed)

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

When you replaced the slave, did you replace the master too?

Very often around here we find that if one's gone, the other is either also gone, or very close to it. I had to replace both of mine.

The system is comprised of only three components. A Master Clutch Cyl, a Slave Clutch Syl, and a metal line. If I were you, I'd replace all three with new parts, and use some NEW DOT4 brake/clutch fluid. That should solve all your problems. If the slave you bought was brand new, replace the master and the line and flush with new DOT4, and see if that clears it up, then replace the slave if necessary.

They're simple to install/remove, two bolts and that's it. And they're not the most expensive part either. I'd just buy both, and a new line, and be done with it.

Jon

MosesX605

edit: vipernicus beat me to it.

Swolbynos

but man is that top bolt on the master a PITRA(royal if your wondering) to get to it took me like30 minutes to get that on nut on:p

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Lol, it wasn't the master that gave me problems, it was the slave. I had to attach two wratchet extentions together, but my wratchet wouldn't angle properly, so I placed it lightly on, then SMACKED it with a rubber mallet... that did a good job of getting the bolt nicely stuck in the socket whilst I took it out

Jon

JAMES-RX-007

That is a difficult angle to get to to remove the clutch slave bolts. I had a socket extender and angled socket and socket drive converter but it worked well and fast.

hornbm

what are you talking about? The salve is EASY! Just use an extention and a U-Joint, and bam its out.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

The adjustible joint I had made it so that I couldn't put enough torque on the bolts to get them out... So I used the double extender and rubber mallet trick

Good ol' precision tool... :P

Jon

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Easy on the hands?? ...Actually, it is easy to pop the slave cylinder if you don't have the beehive air-to-oil cooler. Access is a little tougher with that piece of junk in the way...

inittab

The slave is a cake-walk compared to the master cylinder. You have to be a midget contortionist with two right hands to get that thing off. IMO the master was probably one of the hardest parts to replace thus far.

jayroc

I replaced all my clutch components today. The master cyl. was a pain. I managed to get a gear wrench on it though. My hangup was when I started to bleed it, it just wouldn't take fluid, so me and a friend primed it and began again, still, no pedal feedback, but lots of fluid into the bleeder valve. That's when I noticed that the clutch fork had a damn HOLE in it! ARG! I don't even know how long it's been like that, I been havin trouble with the clutch for awhile. I guess the new slave cyl must have aggrivated this hole and pushed right through it then stuck open, thus, no pedal feedback. Right through the fork in the indentaion for the rod. Damn the bad luck. I've never seen that before, I'm not even sure how I'm going to fix it without takin the tranny out...

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Yup. I was taking one off a parts car once just to have off, and I ******* gave up. It wasnt worth the effort to fight with it when there was no real need to have it off. If I had all my tools, I would probably have gotten it off, but with just a box end wrech, **** that. Why the hell didnt Mazda just put studs there and nuts on the engine bay side!?!?

~T.J.

Tom

I recently replaced my slave cylinder. Used a 1/4 drive ratchet with extension and a 12mm swivel socket (eeasier to use than a joint swivel+ 12mm socket.) Make sure the socket is magnetized or stick some gum in it to catch the bolt.

When I picked up my replacement cylinder (which was made in Italy (??) I found the push rod was installed BACKWARDS..The flared end of the pushrod sits in the clutch fork ON THAT HOLE referred to earlier. MAKE SURE THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS SET UP CORRECTLY!

bliffle

For the slave I simply unscrewed the oil filter to get it out of the way (punch a hole in the top and let it drain first!), used a swivel socket, and then a little caulk from the caulk gun hanging in the garage to fish the bolt back in.

Always replace that damn flexihose! It can leak without leaving much evidence.

B

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Geez... The master and slave cyls, and the starter, were the first three parts I ever replaced on my Mazda, before I even knew *anything* about cars. This was last summer.

Maybe it's because of the pristine condition of the interior (no rust on the interior bolt or anything), but the master was a piece of cake. I just took one of my wrenches from my general toolkit (doesn't even have a box end! It had like 12mm on one side and 13mm on the other!), and with a little contortion of my body, it worked. I'd imagine that the brake booster would be a bitch.. though the brake master cyl was even *easier* to replace this year.. Hell, maybe my car just has a thing for co-operative non-working cylinders?

Jon

pratch

No, you just have small hands

It takes me about 15 minutes to pull the master using an extended deep 12mm socket. the wrench doesn't work for me (Hands too big to do the 5 degree turns without scraping my hands/arms), and the above method works well - just slowly. I imagine if you pulled the dash it would be a LOT easier, but I think that's overkill, don't you?