1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Simplifying The Engine Bay...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-12-10, 03:34 PM
  #1  
Actin Like I'm Drunk

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
jshiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Simplifying The Engine Bay...

I've been on a mission on cleaning up my car and making it a little bit nicer/cleaner. I'm finally gonna start screwing around with my engine bay. I searched around but I couldn't really find much...

I have a 1985 GSL-SE and I was wondering which stuff I can pitch out and what stuff I actually should keep. I don't have to worry about emissions and I'm gonna ditch the air pump once I buy some new headers and delete the cats. My Car doesn't have power steering. My AC has been fried since before I got the car so that's coming out. I'm going to relocate my battery some where else. I'm have my hands on an e fan so my clutch fan is coming out. I seen a few threads about the charcoal canister and I'm still on the fence about pitching that. After I get those Items removed I'm going to replace all the hoses, washers, etc since I have a leak somewhere... Then I'm going to go to town with degreaser and paint my radiator shroud.

Is there anything else worth pitching (I'm doing this for the sake of simplicity and the clean look)? Or Any vacuum lines I can delete?
Old 04-12-10, 05:25 PM
  #2  
Censored

iTrader: (14)
 
ray green's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Georgia
Posts: 11,368
Received 176 Likes on 137 Posts
Degrease first, then keep all that cool stuff you got under the grease.
Old 04-12-10, 05:55 PM
  #3  
Rotating

 
Jimbo II's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 604
Received 6 Likes on 2 Posts
Those clam looking bits that hang off the dizzy, I've always been suspect about them.... can they go?
Old 04-12-10, 06:20 PM
  #4  
Senior Member

 
Whisper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
When you remove the air pump, ACV can go too, block it off. Thus the split air solenoids that control ACV on the passenger side firewall can be removed. You can remove your oil metering pump and start premixing, if you want, but it's hardly worth it unless your OMP is bad. If you do remove it, you can pull the oil injectors, plug the holes, and remove the vacuum spider that runs to the oil injectors. You can also remove the BAC and adjust your TB to have a gap, else your car won't idle right, especially with electrical load on, but that's not really a good idea.

Overall, there's not much more that can be removed. It's already fairly simple and basic, and aside from the emissions stuff, everything else is pretty much used to make the car run.

@ Jimbo

Are you talking about the vacuum advance diaphragms? I wouldn't touch them, they're used to advance ignition with RPM.
Old 04-12-10, 06:28 PM
  #5  
Moderator

iTrader: (2)
 
rxtasy3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 9,320
Likes: 0
Received 258 Likes on 239 Posts
Originally Posted by Jimbo II
Those clam looking bits that hang off the dizzy, I've always been suspect about them.... can they go?
nope. those r for vac advanced.
Old 04-12-10, 06:49 PM
  #6  
Actin Like I'm Drunk

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
jshiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks whisper. I'm gonna leave the OMP alone until i start having problems with it.

Is there anyways I can make the 5th and 6th ports open without my cats?
Old 04-12-10, 07:04 PM
  #7  
I actually own Rotaries

iTrader: (40)
 
73rx313b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North Cackalacky
Posts: 2,025
Received 1,468 Likes on 1,027 Posts
Originally Posted by jshiz
Thanks whisper. I'm gonna leave the OMP alone until i start having problems with it.

Is there anyways I can make the 5th and 6th ports open without my cats?
you can wire them open, which will make it full time 6 port... it might bog a little on the low end but it works pretty good
Old 04-12-10, 07:46 PM
  #8  
need hood

 
1stGenJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Whisper
When you remove the air pump, ACV can go too, block it off. Thus the split air solenoids that control ACV on the passenger side firewall can be removed. You can remove your oil metering pump and start premixing, if you want, but it's hardly worth it unless your OMP is bad. If you do remove it, you can pull the oil injectors, plug the holes, and remove the vacuum spider that runs to the oil injectors. You can also remove the BAC and adjust your TB to have a gap, else your car won't idle right, especially with electrical load on, but that's not really a good idea.
BAC?

TB?

Normally I would PM but this has some relevance to the thread.

Sounds like a problem I have. Could you elaborate a bit?
Old 04-12-10, 08:24 PM
  #9  
Senior Member

 
Whisper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jshiz
Is there anyways I can make the 5th and 6th ports open without my cats?
If you get an RB pre-silencer, it has a bung for the air pipe hook up, just like a cat would, so your secondary ports will hook up and function fine. No need to wire them open.
Old 04-12-10, 08:33 PM
  #10  
Senior Member

 
Whisper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 1stGenJake
BAC?

TB?

Normally I would PM but this has some relevance to the thread.

Sounds like a problem I have. Could you elaborate a bit?
Bypass Air Control valve. It's what ECU uses to keep your idle at 800 RPM when you have an electrical load, by controlling the two solenoids under it. If you have air conditioning, your BAC will also have an air supply valve that opens when A/C is used, to provide even more air at idle.

Throttle Body, or Throttle Chamber as Mazda calls it, is the contraption with all the springs and cams and shafts on it, that your throttle cable hooks up to. It has butterfly valves inside that open when you press the gas pedal and pull on the throttle cable and let air into the engine.

These apply to the fuel injected engines only. Carbed setup is different.
Old 04-12-10, 09:31 PM
  #11  
need hood

 
1stGenJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ah, I see. Well good news is I don't have that problem. Bad news is that I don't know what my problem is. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Old 04-13-10, 04:50 AM
  #12  
Rotating

 
Jimbo II's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 604
Received 6 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by rxtasy3
nope. those r for vac advanced.
Yeh sweet as. My mate told me they were important. Just wondering if he was right. Does it matter if the dizzys electronic or mechanical or nah? I'm running an elec dizzy
Old 04-13-10, 11:21 AM
  #13  
Moderator

iTrader: (2)
 
rxtasy3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 9,320
Likes: 0
Received 258 Likes on 239 Posts
nope. doesn't matter.
Old 04-13-10, 11:14 PM
  #14  
RX for fun

iTrader: (13)
 
Siraniko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Socal
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 19 Posts
cleaning up the engine bay and hacking the wires are two different things. Im against hacking the wires as some day (yeah some day), your FBs will be a classic and someone out there will want to put it back to stock which will increase its value.
Old 06-14-12, 11:11 PM
  #15  
Senior Member

iTrader: (5)
 
che'srx-7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 472
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
so the charcoal canister can go?
so far i eliminated the air pump, acv, cruise control diaphragm, the reservoir under the cruise control.
and will eliminate the solenoids that used to control the ACV . I might remove the A/C next and if i don't need it i want to remove the charcoal canister with all the unnecessary emissions stuff. what can i take out and what do i need to plug?
Old 06-15-12, 06:38 AM
  #16  
I need a cheaper hobby...

iTrader: (14)
 
cshaw07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: East Palestine, Oh
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
just add engine, nothing else. clean enough

Old 12-09-12, 01:24 PM
  #17  
What?

 
John64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 3,833
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Tell me what you think I removed.
Name:  DSC04439.jpg
Views: 63
Size:  220.3 KB
Old 12-09-12, 02:54 PM
  #18  
Out In the Barn


iTrader: (9)
 
KansasCityREPU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: KC
Posts: 6,055
Received 1,015 Likes on 801 Posts
Originally Posted by John64
Tell me what you think I removed.
The AC?
Old 12-09-12, 03:53 PM
  #19  
Wichita SCCA

 
Kansasrx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sub-zero tank and lines can go I just did this a few days ago
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
streetlegal?
New Member RX-7 Technical
13
03-17-22 02:46 PM
stickmantijuana
Microtech
30
04-23-16 06:37 PM



Quick Reply: Simplifying The Engine Bay...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:12 PM.