should I still use Royal Purple?
should I still use Royal Purple?
okay I know that royal purple is a really good oil and synthetic. and I truly believe that Royal Purple can be used in rotary's (there website proves the theory on it). so a couple of days ago, as a fanboy that I am, I posted a picture of the royal purple that Im about to use on it on facebook. so a good friend mine is a huge Rotor head. she owns a fc with a turbo 2 swap. and a FD that is extremely clean. she messaged me saying "DONT USE ROYAL PURPLE, ITS GONNA **** YOUR 7 UP. IT MESSED UP TANSMISSION CAUSE OF THE GOOD PRODUCT THAT IT IS CAUSING OF THE SOLVENT THAT IT USES T CLEAN THE GEARS, AND NEEDED MY TRANS REPLACED.GO BACK AND RETURN IT AND GET CASTROL GTX. MAZDA EVEN SAYS NOT TO USE SYNTHETIC." I was like "well.... damn.... YOLO right?? haha" she never replied after that haha. but the thing is should I still use it? I'm currently running royal purple in my trans and works even better than the recentgear that was in it. I'm also a 81 12a stock ported.
is your OMP still on? or did you block it off?
the reason i ask is because the synthetic oils dont burn as cleanly as a conventional oil, castrol specifically. i dont remember what website i was on, but i read an article that a guy did where he ran different oils in different motors and then took them apart to see the "damage." he concluded that castrol was in fact the best, cleanest-burning oil that he used, as the motor with castrol was the cleanest.
with that said, on my rebuild i plan to block off the OMP and go to premix and i will be using synthetic oil in the engine, synthetic oil is proven to be a better lubricant, i just dont know about the "burn factor" of royal purple.
the reason i ask is because the synthetic oils dont burn as cleanly as a conventional oil, castrol specifically. i dont remember what website i was on, but i read an article that a guy did where he ran different oils in different motors and then took them apart to see the "damage." he concluded that castrol was in fact the best, cleanest-burning oil that he used, as the motor with castrol was the cleanest.
with that said, on my rebuild i plan to block off the OMP and go to premix and i will be using synthetic oil in the engine, synthetic oil is proven to be a better lubricant, i just dont know about the "burn factor" of royal purple.
Last edited by bikeordie092; Aug 18, 2013 at 02:32 AM. Reason: im a dummy and cant spell lol
is your OMP still on? or did you block it off?
the reason i ask is because the synthetic oils dont burn as cleanly as a conventional oil, castrol specifically. i dont remember what website i was on, but i read an article that a guy did where he ran different oils in different motors and then took them apart to see the "damage." he concluded that castrol was in fact the best, cleanest-burning oil that he used, as the motor with castrol was the cleanest.
with that said, on my rebuild i plan to block off the OMP and go to premix and i will be using synthetic oil in the engine, synthetic oil is proven to be a better lubricant, i just dont know about the "burn factor" of royal purple.
the reason i ask is because the synthetic oils dont burn as cleanly as a conventional oil, castrol specifically. i dont remember what website i was on, but i read an article that a guy did where he ran different oils in different motors and then took them apart to see the "damage." he concluded that castrol was in fact the best, cleanest-burning oil that he used, as the motor with castrol was the cleanest.
with that said, on my rebuild i plan to block off the OMP and go to premix and i will be using synthetic oil in the engine, synthetic oil is proven to be a better lubricant, i just dont know about the "burn factor" of royal purple.
love the braaaap
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 5
From: Bognor, Ontario
What I have always been told is that any kind of synthetic oil won't burn as cleanly as conventional oil. What this means in a rotary that still has the OMP working is the engine will burn the oil which leaves behind more crap that can potentially get into the hard seals (apex, side, corner seals) and cause them to possibly freeze up. This is very bad news since your engine won't run right when any of these seals decides to freeze up. It could potentially get to the point that the only way to fix the problem is to rebuild the engine, allowing you to clean up all the internals.
With an OMP delete, there is really no problem using synthetic oils. The oil control seals on the rotor may leak by a bit depending how old the engine is and the last time it was rebuilt, but generally very little is leaked by. Just keep in mind when you do an OMP delete you have to pour 2 stroke oil into your gas tank every time you fill up. I did it on my old 82 and it was a big PITA to be honest. The tradeoff, getting all oily and getting strange looks every time I filled up, was not worth the benefits.
With an OMP delete, there is really no problem using synthetic oils. The oil control seals on the rotor may leak by a bit depending how old the engine is and the last time it was rebuilt, but generally very little is leaked by. Just keep in mind when you do an OMP delete you have to pour 2 stroke oil into your gas tank every time you fill up. I did it on my old 82 and it was a big PITA to be honest. The tradeoff, getting all oily and getting strange looks every time I filled up, was not worth the benefits.
What I have always been told is that any kind of synthetic oil won't burn as cleanly as conventional oil. What this means in a rotary that still has the OMP working is the engine will burn the oil which leaves behind more crap that can potentially get into the hard seals (apex, side, corner seals) and cause them to possibly freeze up. This is very bad news since your engine won't run right when any of these seals decides to freeze up. It could potentially get to the point that the only way to fix the problem is to rebuild the engine, allowing you to clean up all the internals.
With an OMP delete, there is really no problem using synthetic oils. The oil control seals on the rotor may leak by a bit depending how old the engine is and the last time it was rebuilt, but generally very little is leaked by. Just keep in mind when you do an OMP delete you have to pour 2 stroke oil into your gas tank every time you fill up. I did it on my old 82 and it was a big PITA to be honest. The tradeoff, getting all oily and getting strange looks every time I filled up, was not worth the benefits.
With an OMP delete, there is really no problem using synthetic oils. The oil control seals on the rotor may leak by a bit depending how old the engine is and the last time it was rebuilt, but generally very little is leaked by. Just keep in mind when you do an OMP delete you have to pour 2 stroke oil into your gas tank every time you fill up. I did it on my old 82 and it was a big PITA to be honest. The tradeoff, getting all oily and getting strange looks every time I filled up, was not worth the benefits.
Just keep in mind when you do an OMP delete you have to pour 2 stroke oil into your gas tank every time you fill up. I did it on my old 82 and it was a big PITA to be honest. The tradeoff, getting all oily and getting strange looks every time I filled up, was not worth the benefits.
Those are the benifits.... I like the looks and the boat motor smell \m/
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lol i can only imagine the looks, but i like the added reliability factor that you know for a fact that the hard seals will be lubricated properly if you put the oil in there yourself. if your OMP goes, you wont know till its too late...
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
I've never run Royal Purple as an engine oil.
My experience with it as a transmission lube was not positive - - on my (high-mileage) '80 5-speed trans I had a great deal more gear noise and more difficult shifts. I went back to Castrol, and the problems went away. Proof enough for me.
I was disappointed, as I had great hopes for the RP - and I like the fact that it doesn't have the characteristic hypoid-oil reek to it that normal gear oils do. But at least in my case, it did not work well.
My experience with it as a transmission lube was not positive - - on my (high-mileage) '80 5-speed trans I had a great deal more gear noise and more difficult shifts. I went back to Castrol, and the problems went away. Proof enough for me.
I was disappointed, as I had great hopes for the RP - and I like the fact that it doesn't have the characteristic hypoid-oil reek to it that normal gear oils do. But at least in my case, it did not work well.
I have RP in my tranny and diff and use Castrol in the engine with a MOP active. The RP was a
noticeable change for the better on the tranny, less noise, better shifts.
DD I'm surprised you had the opposite observation. I don't doubt it but I wonder why.
noticeable change for the better on the tranny, less noise, better shifts.
DD I'm surprised you had the opposite observation. I don't doubt it but I wonder why.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
I use Royal Purple 20w50 for gear oil. I've used it in several FCs and my old 79 with no problems. It eliminated my bad 2nd gear syncros and it shifted into 3rd smoother.
As for engine oil, don't do it unless you have a new build with Viton seals. Royal Purple will slowly eat at your stock oil control rings and you will get seepage and eventually a bad smoking problem. You can keep your OMP. I would just recommend using it only in a rebuild with Viton rings.
Sounds like your friends transmission was on its last leg It must have had some bad build up that was freed up by the RP detergents.
As for engine oil, don't do it unless you have a new build with Viton seals. Royal Purple will slowly eat at your stock oil control rings and you will get seepage and eventually a bad smoking problem. You can keep your OMP. I would just recommend using it only in a rebuild with Viton rings.
Sounds like your friends transmission was on its last leg It must have had some bad build up that was freed up by the RP detergents.
Royal Purple is 100% safe for internal oil injection.
RP Synthetic does not leave ash as standard oils, or even other synthetic oils will. So any claims that it "burns dirty" is just repeat of other's repeats. Please read the information provided at Royal Purple's website to clear up a lot of misconceptions about synthetics and rotaries: Royal Purple FAQ | Synthetic Motor Oil Questions Answered
One thing to note is that if you have a brand new fresh rebuild, synthetic oils can prevent engine break-in, so you should use Castrol GTX for the first 3k-5k miles, then switch to Royal Purple.
I've heard forum members going 200k+ miles on their rotaries exclusively using Royal Purple.
Use 20w50 as synthetics are slightly less viscous than standard when cold.
If you're still freaking out about putting synthetic through the OMP you can get a standard oil catch-can to feed the OMP system, but there's not really any point: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
RP Synthetic does not leave ash as standard oils, or even other synthetic oils will. So any claims that it "burns dirty" is just repeat of other's repeats. Please read the information provided at Royal Purple's website to clear up a lot of misconceptions about synthetics and rotaries: Royal Purple FAQ | Synthetic Motor Oil Questions Answered
One thing to note is that if you have a brand new fresh rebuild, synthetic oils can prevent engine break-in, so you should use Castrol GTX for the first 3k-5k miles, then switch to Royal Purple.
I've heard forum members going 200k+ miles on their rotaries exclusively using Royal Purple.
Use 20w50 as synthetics are slightly less viscous than standard when cold.
If you're still freaking out about putting synthetic through the OMP you can get a standard oil catch-can to feed the OMP system, but there's not really any point: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
I can't explain it, I can only observe it.
Once (or more properly 'if,' way things are crawling forward) I get my alternate tranny refurbed and in the car, I may give it another go.
Considering that trans has been sitting on my bench for about two years now and all that's happened to it was it got washed, I don't recommend holding breath for an update - let ye be royal purple by then.
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