Setting timing for turbo w/dizzy
11-08-12, 09:05 AM
#1
Setting timing for turbo w/dizzy
I got ahold of an old haltech f9. It only controls the fuel not timing. So I'm planning on using a distributor and putting a vacuum retard/boost advance canister on it.
Just wondering what a good starting point would be for timing. Running 10-12psi with 9.7 rotors 6-port turbo. Pump gas. I've been running the stock s4 turbo ecu with an rtek 1.5 and stock timing and never had a problem.
Just wondering what a good starting point would be for timing. Running 10-12psi with 9.7 rotors 6-port turbo. Pump gas. I've been running the stock s4 turbo ecu with an rtek 1.5 and stock timing and never had a problem.
11-08-12, 12:16 PM
#2
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since you're running an S4 T2 ECU, you could just run stock timing on the distributor and it would be like 10 degrees retarded already...
11-09-12, 09:53 AM
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what i found worked best using a dizzy on a boostd applacation is to set the timming at 0* at idle with the vac unhooked, than connect the vac line to MANIFOLD vac.
iirc vac advance is 10* and mech advance is10*
this will give you 10* at idle/low rpm 20* under cruse and the boost pressure retards it to 10* when your under boost. i found this to work very well for power and fuel econemy, way better than the locked dizzy a lot of people use.
iirc vac advance is 10* and mech advance is10*
this will give you 10* at idle/low rpm 20* under cruse and the boost pressure retards it to 10* when your under boost. i found this to work very well for power and fuel econemy, way better than the locked dizzy a lot of people use.
11-09-12, 11:44 AM
#5
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Indeed. The locked dizzy was a big part of the reason I gave up on blow-through. I never tried the stock dizzy because no one seemed to know what it would do when exposed to boost.
11-09-12, 01:43 PM
#6
I never knew what it would do. All I've ever read about boosting with a dizzy is to use an older volvo 240 turbo advance/retard can and adapt it to a stock dizzy. I guess, when I get my stock one I could pump a couple psi to it and see what it does.
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11-10-12, 07:48 AM
#8
I'll do my best. I'm kinda playing it by ear. Information is very scarce. My goal is to have it in Thanksgiving weekend. The motor it came off of was a similar setup so, hopefully it won't take much to get it going based on that map.
11-10-12, 08:08 AM
#9
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leave the t2 ecu in it .. it sort of retards correctly with the boost .. and uses direct fire and decent coils.. it already does the job much better than any dizzy
wire in the f9 to do fuel only .. take the ignition pulse signal from the leading coils .. it should essentially see the same as what it does when hooked to a dizzy
wire in the f9 to do fuel only .. take the ignition pulse signal from the leading coils .. it should essentially see the same as what it does when hooked to a dizzy
11-12-12, 11:07 AM
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you should compare the logs people have of the T2 ecu with the distributor curves, the T2 ECU is more aggressive
11-12-12, 07:56 PM
#12
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Just to add, ruining your timing from an ecu will be better than a dizzy, but a dizzy will also work fine
A lot of people here will repeat what they heard... Us dizzy has vac advance and jdm 12at dizzy has boost retard... This is wrong, they may have differant advance curves but any one that gets both dizzys next to each other on the bench as I have can see what they do and don't do.
Then they will understand what I first posted, what the 12at dizzy dose is de-advance the timing the same way a usdm dizzy will when connected as I described
A lot of people here will repeat what they heard... Us dizzy has vac advance and jdm 12at dizzy has boost retard... This is wrong, they may have differant advance curves but any one that gets both dizzys next to each other on the bench as I have can see what they do and don't do.
Then they will understand what I first posted, what the 12at dizzy dose is de-advance the timing the same way a usdm dizzy will when connected as I described
11-17-12, 08:38 PM
#13
what i found worked best using a dizzy on a boostd applacation is to set the timming at 0* at idle with the vac unhooked, than connect the vac line to MANIFOLD vac.
iirc vac advance is 10* and mech advance is10*
this will give you 10* at idle/low rpm 20* under cruse and the boost pressure retards it to 10* when your under boost. i found this to work very well for power and fuel econemy, way better than the locked dizzy a lot of people use.
iirc vac advance is 10* and mech advance is10*
this will give you 10* at idle/low rpm 20* under cruse and the boost pressure retards it to 10* when your under boost. i found this to work very well for power and fuel econemy, way better than the locked dizzy a lot of people use.
11-19-12, 04:27 PM
#14
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using a stock dizzy the leading has a vac pot and the trailing have a vac pot, you "tee" them together . then your leading and trailing will advance and de-advance together. your split will be what evet you set it at, i think i set mine at 10* split
08-07-13, 10:40 PM
#21
I hooked up the vacuum advance (ported vacuum) and it had no effect whatsoever. I thought this system was independent of the mechanical system?
FYI this setup hasn't seen boost yet, still N/A until I get another manifold made.
08-08-13, 04:49 PM
#23
Put simply:
Remove it, pull it apart, remove the springs, put it back together, reinstall, time L1 to the TDC mark on the pulley with a timing gun at idle. Or you can experiment with more advance if you want. I left mine at zero since that's where it idled the best.
Make sure you mark the orientation of everything before you pull it or you'll just be guessing at your timing when you're done.
08-11-13, 07:20 PM
#25
and going through the cap instead of waste spark will make more hp..
waste spark= fires coil twice as many times so the coil had half the time to recharge.. not good at high rpm.. the dyno will tell you this