Second water temp sender tip installation question
03-25-07, 05:31 PM
#51
Thanks Trochoid for the undeserved compliment, there are lots of way more responsible rotor heads on this forum than me. But it is a lot of fun, those guys who aren't doing it are just missing out. And while I'm at it a few pictures and documentation isn't much trouble.
I do want to leave a fairly coherent description of this cheap and easy install (less that $20, a few hours work for someone more competent than me) so let me add just one more detail.
You can hook up the light to your gauge using an electrical coupling that's located right under that panel to the right (lighter I think, not sure, but it comes on with the parking lights). Just open up the white plastic coupling, stick your red wire in the little window in the plastic and through the hole on the male terminal, then slip the lady on. Ground it on one of the mounting bolts near by.
Of course for you more discerning rotorheads, one of the other temp gauges discussed above might be better than my little Sunpro, but I'm happy with the way it looks.
I'll be doing the roadtests this week and will get back if there are any problems.
Ray
I do want to leave a fairly coherent description of this cheap and easy install (less that $20, a few hours work for someone more competent than me) so let me add just one more detail.
You can hook up the light to your gauge using an electrical coupling that's located right under that panel to the right (lighter I think, not sure, but it comes on with the parking lights). Just open up the white plastic coupling, stick your red wire in the little window in the plastic and through the hole on the male terminal, then slip the lady on. Ground it on one of the mounting bolts near by.
Of course for you more discerning rotorheads, one of the other temp gauges discussed above might be better than my little Sunpro, but I'm happy with the way it looks.
I'll be doing the roadtests this week and will get back if there are any problems.
Ray
03-27-07, 11:14 PM
#52
OK, here's the good news, it holds steady at 180 at all temps and speeds, the cooling system seems to be cool.
And when the stock temp gauge starts to go wacky at night out on the highway (headlights on, 80 mph):
that little mechanical gauge holds steady at 180 while the stock one was creeping up to the first warning marker. What I was hoping for.
A couple of other points about the mechanical gauge. It holds rock solid just below 180 (I have a 175 degree thermostat). It starts to climb just after the stock gauge reaches temp then levels in about 15 seconds to 180, even when you shut the car off.
Their is no problem with temp fluctuations caused by the thermostat opening and closing (except at warm up), in fact they are undetectable on the rock steady gauge.
And it looks really cool at night.
Now back to why my headlights make my car overheat.
Of course there is the very unlikely problem of the thermostat seizing, but the stock electric gauge will cover this.
Ray
And when the stock temp gauge starts to go wacky at night out on the highway (headlights on, 80 mph):
that little mechanical gauge holds steady at 180 while the stock one was creeping up to the first warning marker. What I was hoping for.
A couple of other points about the mechanical gauge. It holds rock solid just below 180 (I have a 175 degree thermostat). It starts to climb just after the stock gauge reaches temp then levels in about 15 seconds to 180, even when you shut the car off.
Their is no problem with temp fluctuations caused by the thermostat opening and closing (except at warm up), in fact they are undetectable on the rock steady gauge.
And it looks really cool at night.
Now back to why my headlights make my car overheat.
Of course there is the very unlikely problem of the thermostat seizing, but the stock electric gauge will cover this.
Ray
Last edited by ray green; 03-27-07 at 11:23 PM.
03-28-07, 02:40 AM
#53
Ray, I have to disagree with you. 
You do deserve the compliment I gave you, for a couple of reasons. You do near immaculate work and cleaning on your car, if only all of our engine bays looked as nice. The other thing I admire is your steadfastness about keeping your car stock while most eveyone else is tearing out parts and modding everything they can.
When it's all said and done, your car will be the one that has held it's value and you may end up being one of the few that actually know how to trouble shoot problems on a totally stock system.
You do deserve the compliment I gave you, for a couple of reasons. You do near immaculate work and cleaning on your car, if only all of our engine bays looked as nice. The other thing I admire is your steadfastness about keeping your car stock while most eveyone else is tearing out parts and modding everything they can.
When it's all said and done, your car will be the one that has held it's value and you may end up being one of the few that actually know how to trouble shoot problems on a totally stock system.
03-28-07, 01:58 PM
#54
Thanks Trochoid, but I must respectively disagree. I'm just good, a lot of the guys and girls on this forum are really good.
I have a saying that my wife and neighbors hate:
"I'm always right, but nobody ever listens to me"
For example, I voted for Gore and Kerry.
But at least you are listening, even if you disagree.
I hope you will agree that this inexpensive second temp gauge upgrade (mechanical coolant temp in addition to stock electrical engine temp) is a good idea and will recommend it to the many folks who so much appreciate and respect your excellent advice.
Ray
I have a saying that my wife and neighbors hate:
"I'm always right, but nobody ever listens to me"
For example, I voted for Gore and Kerry.
But at least you are listening, even if you disagree.
I hope you will agree that this inexpensive second temp gauge upgrade (mechanical coolant temp in addition to stock electrical engine temp) is a good idea and will recommend it to the many folks who so much appreciate and respect your excellent advice.
Ray
Last edited by ray green; 03-28-07 at 02:07 PM.
10-21-08, 05:11 AM
#55
Ray, There are a few places you could use.
^^^ John's above.
2. Also that side of the engine but in the middle is a drain plug, Remove and use the hole.
3. on the back of Water pump is a temp sender for (the choke?) It can be pulled out and a bushing put in to adapt it to the correct thread, The bushing can be bought in a pack from sunpro, Their $20 guage also works OK.
4. a couple places sale an adapter that you put inline with the top rad hose and then has a place for the sender.
With you being all stock #3 will not work for you.
Sunpro
http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16338
http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16294
I picked up the sunpro guage at Pep-boys, and the adapter kit at autozone.
^^^ John's above.
2. Also that side of the engine but in the middle is a drain plug, Remove and use the hole.
3. on the back of Water pump is a temp sender for (the choke?) It can be pulled out and a bushing put in to adapt it to the correct thread, The bushing can be bought in a pack from sunpro, Their $20 guage also works OK.
4. a couple places sale an adapter that you put inline with the top rad hose and then has a place for the sender.
With you being all stock #3 will not work for you.
Sunpro
http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16338
http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16294
I picked up the sunpro guage at Pep-boys, and the adapter kit at autozone.
thanks
Mark
10-30-08, 09:48 AM
#59
Just to add to gauge placement, I've come across another spot/method. When I had my engine apart for the rebuild, I re-tapped the stock sender hole for an aftermarket sender. I mentioned this to a friend on the NW coast and he has successfully retapped the stock sender hole for an AutoMeter sender, with the engine still in the engine bay.
I can't recommend this method for a novice that has little machining experience since the gray cast iron is very grainy and not easy to tap. It's a one shot deal. Mess it up and one will be trying to figure out how to plug the hole with chewed up threads.
I can't recommend this method for a novice that has little machining experience since the gray cast iron is very grainy and not easy to tap. It's a one shot deal. Mess it up and one will be trying to figure out how to plug the hole with chewed up threads.
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