Thanks Trochoid for the undeserved compliment, there are lots of way more responsible rotor heads on this forum than me. But it is a lot of fun, those guys who aren't doing it are just missing out. And while I'm at it a few pictures and documentation isn't much trouble.

I do want to leave a fairly coherent description of this cheap and easy install (less that $20, a few hours work for someone more competent than me) so let me add just one more detail.

You can hook up the light to your gauge using an electrical coupling that's located right under that panel to the right (lighter I think, not sure, but it comes on with the parking lights). Just open up the white plastic coupling, stick your red wire in the little window in the plastic and through the hole on the male terminal, then slip the lady on. Ground it on one of the mounting bolts near by.

Of course for you more discerning rotorheads, one of the other temp gauges discussed above might be better than my little Sunpro, but I'm happy with the way it looks.

I'll be doing the roadtests this week and will get back if there are any problems.

Ray

 

OK, here's the good news, it holds steady at 180 at all temps and speeds, the cooling system seems to be cool.

And when the stock temp gauge starts to go wacky at night out on the highway (headlights on, 80 mph):



that little mechanical gauge holds steady at 180 while the stock one was creeping up to the first warning marker. What I was hoping for.

A couple of other points about the mechanical gauge. It holds rock solid just below 180 (I have a 175 degree thermostat). It starts to climb just after the stock gauge reaches temp then levels in about 15 seconds to 180, even when you shut the car off.

Their is no problem with temp fluctuations caused by the thermostat opening and closing (except at warm up), in fact they are undetectable on the rock steady gauge.

And it looks really cool at night.

Now back to why my headlights make my car overheat.

Of course there is the very unlikely problem of the thermostat seizing, but the stock electric gauge will cover this.

Ray

 

Ray, I have to disagree with you.

You do deserve the compliment I gave you, for a couple of reasons. You do near immaculate work and cleaning on your car, if only all of our engine bays looked as nice. The other thing I admire is your steadfastness about keeping your car stock while most eveyone else is tearing out parts and modding everything they can.

When it's all said and done, your car will be the one that has held it's value and you may end up being one of the few that actually know how to trouble shoot problems on a totally stock system.

 

Thanks Trochoid, but I must respectively disagree. I'm just good, a lot of the guys and girls on this forum are really good.

I have a saying that my wife and neighbors hate:

"I'm always right, but nobody ever listens to me"

For example, I voted for Gore and Kerry.

But at least you are listening, even if you disagree.

I hope you will agree that this inexpensive second temp gauge upgrade (mechanical coolant temp in addition to stock electrical engine temp) is a good idea and will recommend it to the many folks who so much appreciate and respect your excellent advice.

Ray

 

can anyone confirm the adaptor need for option 3 to work

thanks
Mark

 

the sunpro gauge i got came with a couple adapters, and had the needed adapter to work as mentioned in the back of the w/p housing. the gauge i'm using is mechanical.

 

im want to use mine to switch the e fan, im sure i read somewhere you can get a sensor that is set to switch on at like 190 and off at 180?
Mark

 

Nice work there Ray!

Makes the conversion i did on my Datsun look very poor!

Karis

 

Just to add to gauge placement, I've come across another spot/method. When I had my engine apart for the rebuild, I re-tapped the stock sender hole for an aftermarket sender. I mentioned this to a friend on the NW coast and he has successfully retapped the stock sender hole for an AutoMeter sender, with the engine still in the engine bay.

I can't recommend this method for a novice that has little machining experience since the gray cast iron is very grainy and not easy to tap. It's a one shot deal. Mess it up and one will be trying to figure out how to plug the hole with chewed up threads.