Second thoughts and last minute ditch effort
02-23-04, 12:00 AM
#1
Rotartist
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Second thoughts and last minute ditch effort
Ok I am contimplating selling the beast BUT.......I just read a thread that said to change the oil in the car if the car was severely flooded right....WHY? When i first put the rebuild in the OEM carb was flooding the motor bad and so i went to a holley setup with rb manifold BRAND NEW CARB!!! Well the car runs for 30 seconds then floods still......but alas the oil change..havent changed the oil since i put the new carb on...Guess what..ran outside checked it and it is HEAVILY SOaKED WITH FUEL.....So much that it is all over the dizzy teeth and actually seemed to have thinned the oil....Could the oil be the problem with the constant flooding now? PLease help before i sell the car...
02-23-04, 12:03 AM
#2
FD > FB > FC
Changing it wouldnt hurt. I dont know if that could make it flood though. Why dont you take it to a rotary shop? Sounds like the carb just needs to be tuned. Is it a RB holley, or a normal one. A buddy of mine used a 650CFM eddelbrock carb, and ha a hell of a time tuning it. It flys like a bat out of hell now though.
02-23-04, 12:08 AM
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There aren't any anywhere close to here ....I son't really have a bunch of money to throw into this thing anymore paying for school ect raising my daughter..blah blah.. My 87 needs new tires, the other 85 just blew an apex seal...I am lost an dfrusterated...I have almost $3k in this car and i have never driven it!!!!!
02-23-04, 12:22 AM
#7
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It's a non-rb prepped 4something model (465 maybe or low 4's the guy at the speed shop said it would work great on the rotory because it wouldnt demand too much vacume. 4160 family....
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02-23-04, 12:36 AM
#8
FD > FB > FC
OK that tells me right there that its a carb tuning problem. You need to figure out exactly what you need to do this carb to get it to work on a rotary, as I know its not easy. If I were you I would have just bought the RB carb in the first place. Just slap it on and go.
Now that I know your not going to go out and buy a RB carb, you gotta make best with what you have. Call up a rotary shop, and explain to them your situation. They should be able to tell you what modifications you have to make the carb work.
I know robert at rotaryshack deals with this stuff. http://www.rotaryshack.com.
If you sell the car its gonna be a waste man. Your really close, dont sell the car because you dont know how to tune it. Learn how to tune it.
Now that I know your not going to go out and buy a RB carb, you gotta make best with what you have. Call up a rotary shop, and explain to them your situation. They should be able to tell you what modifications you have to make the carb work.
I know robert at rotaryshack deals with this stuff. http://www.rotaryshack.com.
If you sell the car its gonna be a waste man. Your really close, dont sell the car because you dont know how to tune it. Learn how to tune it.
02-23-04, 09:45 AM
#13
Originally posted by Rotor13B
If I remember correctly, When you flood the motor, The fuel gets by the control rings and contaminates the oil.
If I remember correctly, When you flood the motor, The fuel gets by the control rings and contaminates the oil.
02-23-04, 09:49 AM
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Ok I have had several hits on the for sale section of the car so i am going to change the oil and do the unflooding proceduer before i make any rash decisons...thanks so much guys.....I don't know what i wwould do without this forum....
02-23-04, 10:13 AM
#15
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
The reason why you change oil after a heavy flooding is because the flooded chambers have liquid fuel in them when you're cranking it over. This liquid is not as compressible as the air/fuel mixture of a properly tuned engine.
What this means is that as the rotors turn, they attempt to compress the liquid fuel, which cannot be squished down any smaller. Once it reaches it minimum volume, this raw, liquid fuel squirts past the side seals and oil control rings, ending up in your rotor wells, and eventually draining down to the oil pan.
Why is fuel bad in your oil? Because benzine (fuel) is a solvent and acts to thin out the oil in your engine, often causing oil to blow-by the oil control rings, not build up enough pressure (due to low viscosity), and generally cause problems with systems that would work just fine otherwise.
Changing your oil restores the viscocity and allows your engine to work as it was designed. Also, engine compression relies on side seals and apex seals that receive lubrication from oil, not gas/oil - so you're likely not building much compression, which could also contribute to continued problems with flooding.
Based on your description, at this point, I would either call RB and ask them to help you troubleshoot your Holley, or just order one from them that comes pre-tuned. At least their unit will be closer to what will work than screwing with a carb that you KNOW was not designed to run on a rotary. There are very distinct 'breathing' differences that most carb shops won't consider - they just want to move inventory.
As to the amount of money that you've spent on this car, for me, I would go out of my way to get it to where I could drive it if I just dumped $3k into it...
What this means is that as the rotors turn, they attempt to compress the liquid fuel, which cannot be squished down any smaller. Once it reaches it minimum volume, this raw, liquid fuel squirts past the side seals and oil control rings, ending up in your rotor wells, and eventually draining down to the oil pan.
Why is fuel bad in your oil? Because benzine (fuel) is a solvent and acts to thin out the oil in your engine, often causing oil to blow-by the oil control rings, not build up enough pressure (due to low viscosity), and generally cause problems with systems that would work just fine otherwise.
Changing your oil restores the viscocity and allows your engine to work as it was designed. Also, engine compression relies on side seals and apex seals that receive lubrication from oil, not gas/oil - so you're likely not building much compression, which could also contribute to continued problems with flooding.
Based on your description, at this point, I would either call RB and ask them to help you troubleshoot your Holley, or just order one from them that comes pre-tuned. At least their unit will be closer to what will work than screwing with a carb that you KNOW was not designed to run on a rotary. There are very distinct 'breathing' differences that most carb shops won't consider - they just want to move inventory.
As to the amount of money that you've spent on this car, for me, I would go out of my way to get it to where I could drive it if I just dumped $3k into it...
02-27-04, 11:47 AM
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For the Holley, plug your power valve and richen your jets to about 68's all around then richen or lean out from their. My curent jetting is 73 primaries and 60 in the secondaries, that is on a street ported 12a. Check you float level. If they are not adjusted correctly the carb will not stop dumping fuel and flood your engine. NO, thinned out oil has no effect on flooding an engine. Just wont lubricate your engine properly. Also if you dont have a good fuel pump and pressure regulator you wont get the performance you should. The fuel pressure for the Holley has to be a constant 6 psi, during full throttle.
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