SA bumper removal?
#2
in the enggine compart. inbetween the head light and rad. theres 1 12mm bolt. 1 for each side then there are wires to disconnect fore the turn signals. you may have to take the rad. off now that i think about it. ill brb with the answer.
#3
ok so you dont need to take the rad off but you do need to take out the batery and rad over flow tank. in the pic are the aproximet bolt locations (in red)
and from there im not shure about the nose pannel
and from there im not shure about the nose pannel
#4
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Yellow '79
ok so you dont need to take the rad off but you do need to take out the batery and rad over flow tank. in the pic are the aproximet bolt locations (in red)
and from there im not shure about the nose pannel
and from there im not shure about the nose pannel
#6
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
There are nuts at the end of the bumper shocks in the engine bay as listed and 2 bolts on the frame rails horns behind the bumper. Those can be accessed with the grill out. Rear bumper is similiar with an access plate under the carpet in the hatch. Don't forget to unhook the wires.
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#8
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Hey Ian-
As said above, the BUMPER (fr) is released with 2 pairs of nuts attached to each of the rear of the bumper shocks - these are in the engine compartment: remove the rad bottle to access the Pass side; remove the battery (and maybe the tray, which is 4 10mm bolts) to access those on Dr Side. NOTE: remove grille and disconnect fr. signal light harnesses FIRST. These connectors are right near the shock nuts in engine compartment.
NOSE PIECE:
-4 side bolts, 2 of which are up beside the Headlights - so you need to have the lights UP! to access these from underneath... then the 4 along the top in front of the rad.
If you plan on getting the bumper repainted, you will want to remove the front rubber strip to do it right -but I warn you, the rubber strip is held to the bumper by an inserted metal strip (inserted in the RUBBER) - this will be BADLY corroded!! If enough of it is left, it can easily be restored after being removed from the rubber strip (I used WD40 to extract it easily). I treated mine with POR15 MarineClean, then used a dremel rotory wire brush to remove the rust, then etched it with POR MetalReady, finally sealing it with POR15 rust inhibitor so it won't rust again! Lot of work, but if you are serious about restoring your SA (As I am!), it needs to be done!! The metal strip is NOT available without buying a whole new rubber piece! $$! NOTE that your REAR bumper's strip is suffering the SAME problem, BTW
I went thru this whole routine this summer. Have picks if you need them, PM me - important to note (ie photos!) how the bumper internals disassemble to get strip off!!
AND of course you'll have noticed the likely rusty condition of your battery shelf AND the fender area beneath it I had the shelf sand/bead blasted and powdercoated (POR15 will work nicely too) and POR'd the fender area underneath it
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
As said above, the BUMPER (fr) is released with 2 pairs of nuts attached to each of the rear of the bumper shocks - these are in the engine compartment: remove the rad bottle to access the Pass side; remove the battery (and maybe the tray, which is 4 10mm bolts) to access those on Dr Side. NOTE: remove grille and disconnect fr. signal light harnesses FIRST. These connectors are right near the shock nuts in engine compartment.
NOSE PIECE:
-4 side bolts, 2 of which are up beside the Headlights - so you need to have the lights UP! to access these from underneath... then the 4 along the top in front of the rad.
If you plan on getting the bumper repainted, you will want to remove the front rubber strip to do it right -but I warn you, the rubber strip is held to the bumper by an inserted metal strip (inserted in the RUBBER) - this will be BADLY corroded!! If enough of it is left, it can easily be restored after being removed from the rubber strip (I used WD40 to extract it easily). I treated mine with POR15 MarineClean, then used a dremel rotory wire brush to remove the rust, then etched it with POR MetalReady, finally sealing it with POR15 rust inhibitor so it won't rust again! Lot of work, but if you are serious about restoring your SA (As I am!), it needs to be done!! The metal strip is NOT available without buying a whole new rubber piece! $$! NOTE that your REAR bumper's strip is suffering the SAME problem, BTW
I went thru this whole routine this summer. Have picks if you need them, PM me - important to note (ie photos!) how the bumper internals disassemble to get strip off!!
AND of course you'll have noticed the likely rusty condition of your battery shelf AND the fender area beneath it I had the shelf sand/bead blasted and powdercoated (POR15 will work nicely too) and POR'd the fender area underneath it
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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