s4 alternator into SA
s4 alternator into SA
I've read a bunch of threads and can't figure out what I have going on. I look at the wiring diagrams and I still am not sure what I need to connect.
1. According to the wiring diagram, I should have a WB wire running to the original 3-wire plug, and all I need to do is connect that to the upper terminal on the alternator. Well, I don't have a WB wire in that plug. I have BY, YB and Y. Looking at the diagrams, it looks like I should use the YB since it connects to the F tab on the alternator, and that's what the WB runs to in the diagram. Correct?
2. I don't care whether the stock voltmeter works. I installed an Equus guage set last week. So I can skip the lower connector off the s4 alt. Yes?
1. According to the wiring diagram, I should have a WB wire running to the original 3-wire plug, and all I need to do is connect that to the upper terminal on the alternator. Well, I don't have a WB wire in that plug. I have BY, YB and Y. Looking at the diagrams, it looks like I should use the YB since it connects to the F tab on the alternator, and that's what the WB runs to in the diagram. Correct?
2. I don't care whether the stock voltmeter works. I installed an Equus guage set last week. So I can skip the lower connector off the s4 alt. Yes?
ditch them all stock alternator wires and just locate a 12-V when the engine is running and connect it to the S4 alternator's F terminal as shown below. disregard the hanging wire as I did it for illustration purposes.
I will wait for others to post on the volt meter connection for the hell of it.
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I will wait for others to post on the volt meter connection for the hell of it.
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Thanks, wacky. I think I can manage that. I saw you said that before, but I wanted to try to use the existing wiring. I'll just grab one of the switched 12v wires and connect to it.
As far as I can tell, there's no reason at all to worry about the voltmeter. It's close to useless in the SA.
As far as I can tell, there's no reason at all to worry about the voltmeter. It's close to useless in the SA.
Ok, here's the summary. I drew a picture to help explain. Car is SA, engine harness is SA. Removed SA alternator. Installed S4 alternator. 2-wire plug from other harness is fastened to new alternator. Per wacky's advice, I used switched 12v wire for connection to R terminal (choke switch wiring for now). Per other instructions, I disconnected the wiring from the external regulator and used two jumpers to connect 2 sets of wires at the regulator connector. Following a suggestion I saw on a couple other sites, I've run a wire directly from the B terminal to the + battery terminal in addition to the wire from the B terminal to the fuse box (2nd gen). Seemed reasonable at the time.
Now I see nearly 14v at idle on an Equus voltmeter connected to a switched 12v feed to the radio. Turning lights on drops voltage slightly. Turning fan to lowest setting drops voltage reading to about 13v, maybe a little lower.
I'm almost certain I have this connected up correctly. Looking for confirmation. Also wondering if the voltage readings are appropriate.
Now I see nearly 14v at idle on an Equus voltmeter connected to a switched 12v feed to the radio. Turning lights on drops voltage slightly. Turning fan to lowest setting drops voltage reading to about 13v, maybe a little lower.
I'm almost certain I have this connected up correctly. Looking for confirmation. Also wondering if the voltage readings are appropriate.
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Everything on the car works, voltmeter, dummy lights when necessary...oops, the TII is different...never mind...
...all the numbers are for a final write-up to close an old thread...disregard them

...all the numbers are for a final write-up to close an old thread...disregard them
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Captain Hook
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Oct 4, 2015 06:35 PM




