hey when your looking for the new housing get a second gen N/A housing they are aluminum and resist rusting that bad. thats what i have on my car. it should bolt right up to the new water pump you bought.

 

Damn man, squeeky clean. Looks nice.

 

very nice and clean engine bay

 

Well as usual the beeping ezout broke clean off. I used triple dose of PB blast too.

So I am just gonna replace the housing. Will paint it first.

 

which housing are you going to try to get though? if you do get the second gen housing you can just pull the neck off and put the FB one one.

 

Too late already ordered salvage from an 85 12a from the same place I have been getting other stuff (Apex Auto Parts / RX7 Addict). But thanks. I should of done that but forgot lol. Don't plan on doing any engine perf modding to this vehicle except new exhaust.

Maybe street port after this core blows a seal... but I hope with 52k original miles it will last me a year or 2 more.

 

Did you bust the EZout and leave the broken piece inside the bolt? That's tough , because it makes it hard to drill a pilot hole for a heli-coil. I'm surprised you could get enough force on the EZout to break it. Since I've never gotten a bolt out with an EZout I think I'll just quit trying (for surely I will break that bolt on some other car - it's the fate of tstat bolts). All you need for the helicoil is an electric drill and a tap handle, and I use one or two undersize pilot drills to ease up to the rightsize drill.

Did I mention that you should use anti-seize on any bolt you thread into your car?

 

Ok well I know about anti sieze this is a bolt that was put in when the car was manufactured 25 years ago. This particular vehicle sat for over 3 years in Galveson.

That's it I tried the ez out and it broke I am not going to spend money on a heli coil. Salvage housing already on the way.

 

That housing cost you $50, I believe, while the helicoil can be gotten from amazon for $20.

They work good, as former owners of the VW bus can testify. The expansion-contraction cycle of the old 1600 air-cooled engine would cause the long head studs to strip out of the case, allowing the head to go flap-flap-flap as one drove along. The cure was to use helicoils in the aluminum-magnesium to secure those long bolts. The helicoils actually strengthened the threads.

 

a propane touch is good for loosen rusted bolts.

Wanna talk about corrosion and frozen parts? How about an 1950's mercury fishing engine that ran in salt water? I.e aluminum and salt water

 

i was told in a post that if you remove the 19mm main nut you need to have the clutch pedal pressed in or you can mess up the thrust washer. i believe you posted in that thread od mine so i hope you read that before removing the 19mm nut.

 

Yea I have the clutch pressed in for when I put the new housing on. I am gonna paint it first too with some Chevy Red POR 15 engine enamel.

 

that part of the VW bus part is true i had to do the same thing. this is the first water cooled vehicle i have ever owned and i have learned a lot and if i do get another Vdub I'm going to put a water cooled engine in to it.

 

The screw was messed up bad after I drilled the hell out of it and forced the extractor into it. It's cool I just didn't want to take anymore chances because this baby has to be ready to roll for Spring Break...

 

oh some one must have a date then

 

Just kinda used it as a benchmark for getting her up and running again.