1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

runs rough still

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Old 09-06-11, 08:41 PM
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runs rough still

i have a 79 with a 82 engine in it
i recently rebuilt my carb which is flawless and glad i did it cause it made a huge difference but now i still run rough which leads me to think its something in my ignition system. i upgrade my dizzy and hooked up the wires correctly so im running the electriconic magnetic dizzy still the 2 stock coils and new spark plug wires. its only rough at the idle and idles at 1k and it drive perfectly fine and accelerates great. but when people follow me they say my car smells bad like my ignition system isnt igniting all the fuel....so what do i check first? i also want to upgrade to 2 gen ignition and msd coils just havent gotten that far just trying to get what i got all good....any insight would be great
thanks
-kyle
Old 09-06-11, 10:40 PM
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do u have the stock emissions?? if not that could be ur smell. Are they saying its smelling like gas (running rich) and have u checked ur plugs to c if there being fouled at all?? Idk about the rough idle my car idles rough for liek the 1st 30 seconds and then smooths out and im currently in the midst of troubleshooting that (possibly bad ignition setup)
Old 09-07-11, 10:02 AM
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Kyle,

If its only rough at idle then it may be your idle mixture setting. Check your vacuum lines and caps too, to make sure that there are no leaks.

Are you using NGK spark plugs? If not, you should be.

When you swapped to the electronic dizzy, did you change the coils too? I believe you need to.

I wasn't really looking for issues, but I didn't notice anything funny about your car at the Metro Cruise race.




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Old 09-07-11, 10:14 AM
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kindashakes and vibrates to much with still a little rumble and sounds to me like a miss still, this is when its warmed up, i didnt upgrade coils at all...wanting to do the msd coils just trying to find the cheapest place to get them. as to my spark plugs, when we were at the junk yard a 2 gen was there and we took the spark plugs from that cause they were brand new ones, i can get the part numbers for them, cause there are two different ones one for the trailing and leading.
Old 09-07-11, 11:17 AM
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got my spark plug numbers

NGK
R
BUR9EQ
T

then i have other ones on the bottom for leading

NGK
R
BUR7EQ
L
Old 09-07-11, 12:09 PM
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BR8EQ-14 is what you should be using.
Old 09-07-11, 12:18 PM
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whats the difference between those and the ones that i got on now? could that be why im getting a shaky idle?
Old 09-07-11, 12:30 PM
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My 79 RX7's Tac pointer would bounce up to 1000 rpm's to 1500 plus and down again in less than a second time interval. The problem was not my wiring, it was the Distributor "Points Plate" that was lifting upwards by a 1/4 inch. Remove the 2 screws holding the plate down, and lube the bearing under it, and the weights also. (My bearing were bad, I did not feel a smooth rotation of the plate after lubeing it)...This lifting of the plate, caused the trailing points rub block to touch the cam prematurly, making the points open too soon. Test this by lifting the plate with your fingers at one end and watch to see if your points open and close. . .This opening made my RPM gauge to be unreadable, and Yes my timing was not the best and it really was the timing issue that led me to shim the plate which gave me a steady timing dwell and consequently a Tac that now reads steady. I shimmed the "Point Plate" with a thicker washer at the hold down screw, to hold it downwards preventing the 1/4 inch upward lifting, but, remember the plate must have a gap under it for the vacuum advances of the Leading & Trailing to move freely. Greg5656
Old 09-07-11, 01:48 PM
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The ones you have now were made for a more powerful ignition system. If you find a 2nd gen leading coil pack and install that, then you would be able to use the leading plugs. This is probably your best bet anyway, because you can get a coil pack for about 20 bucks, whereas new coils from the store will run more like 100 unless they are junk.
Old 09-07-11, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by GREG5656
My 79 RX7's Tac pointer would bounce up to 1000 rpm's to 1500 plus and down again in less than a second time interval. The problem was not my wiring, it was the Distributor "Points Plate" that was lifting upwards by a 1/4 inch. Remove the 2 screws holding the plate down, and lube the bearing under it, and the weights also. (My bearing were bad, I did not feel a smooth rotation of the plate after lubeing it)...This lifting of the plate, caused the trailing points rub block to touch the cam prematurly, making the points open too soon. Test this by lifting the plate with your fingers at one end and watch to see if your points open and close. . .This opening made my RPM gauge to be unreadable, and Yes my timing was not the best and it really was the timing issue that led me to shim the plate which gave me a steady timing dwell and consequently a Tac that now reads steady. I shimmed the "Point Plate" with a thicker washer at the hold down screw, to hold it downwards preventing the 1/4 inch upward lifting, but, remember the plate must have a gap under it for the vacuum advances of the Leading & Trailing to move freely. Greg5656
Third time you've posted this same text block, Greg... out of 10 posts?

Correction; 7 of this character's first 10 posts are spams of this same quote.

OCD, or some kind of tactic to get jailbroke from newb land?
Old 09-07-11, 04:34 PM
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so because i have plugs for a better ignition system is most likely the reason why im having a slight miss and extra vibrations? where do i get a 2 gen leading coil pack?
Old 09-08-11, 01:27 AM
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I tested 16 spark plugs one day. Both new and old, BR8EQ-14 and BUR7EQ. My ignition was stock 81-85 through the cap. I consistantly had a weaker rougher idle and it was harder to start on the BUR7EQ plugs. The correct BR8EQ-14 plugs, regardless of age/wear, worked far better every time. You could blindfold me and I could tell you which plugs were in the engine. It was that obvious.

Get the right plugs first, man. Then read up on direct fire ignition systems at your leisure. Then pick one that sounds right for you (DLIDFIS). By the way, direct fire works fine with BR8EQ-14 plugs too. Not sure why you've got the wrong plugs in there for your year engine.
Old 09-08-11, 06:54 AM
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ok so what are my current plugs good for then? and ive read the DLIDFIS which is impressive
by the way but wouldnt going that route solve my plug problem cause from what ive read it seems like it would work better with the leading plugs i have in because its direct fire so it makes up for having to powerful of plugs that i got? correct me if im wrong cause im kinda new to all the ignition stuff and its hard to keep track of it all
Old 09-08-11, 08:44 AM
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As far as plugs go, I always use Denso W25EDR14. I don't know if the NGK are better, but the Denso are the OE plugs so that's what I use. I might give the NGK a try though and see if it makes difference.
Old 09-08-11, 12:44 PM
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So let me understand your question. You're thinking about upgrading your ignition instead of just getting new plugs only because your current plugs will work fine once you've upgraded the ignition? Sounds kinda backwards to me. But then again you're young and might not have any spare cash lying around for plugs, but just might have all the parts necessary to do DLIDFIS. That was me many moons ago. Well, do whatever works.
Old 09-08-11, 03:33 PM
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hahaha, why get new plugs when i want to upgrade and will eventually switch back to the ones i have? seems kinda pointless to me, i got two jobs to help me do all the stuff i want so i have spare cash but not alot , you would be suprised how much landscaping pays
Old 09-08-11, 04:25 PM
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NGK are the OEM plugs. Not Denso.

Originally Posted by justinfox
As far as plugs go, I always use Denso W25EDR14. I don't know if the NGK are better, but the Denso are the OE plugs so that's what I use. I might give the NGK a try though and see if it makes difference.
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