Which way is LOW pressure?

 

Depends on how you have it set up. If the regulator goes in the fuel line A is high pressure B is low pressure. If it is the type that is meant to be in the fuel return line (AKA bypass style regulator,) then A is low pressure, and B is high pressure.

I hope this makes sense.

 

Thanks. It's in the fuel line. But I have it set at around B, very far in, and I've still got a flooded carb and fuel actually spraying out of a fitting.

Edit:
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...7914-3rev3.pdf
I found these instructions for a Holley reg, they say the opposite.

 

ok, try clockwise to raise the pressure then, and counterclockwise to lower. It's nice to have a guage on there too.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/fuel-how-install-carter-fuel-pump-holley-fpr-529605/

^^^from the 1st gen archive This may help

 

i wanna say out is lower on the holley regulator, but its been a while and BOTH cars i put it on i didn't need to adjust it!

 

You're using the Holley 1-4 psi regulator right? A few things...

1) I used to be a big fan of this Holley regulator, but have grown to hate it. 6-8 years ago they were great regulators, but all the ones I've bought recently don't do ANYTHING. I almost wonder if they changed production location, or changed the internals on the regulator to try and cut costs. The very first one that I bought worked flawlessly. Like I said, that was 6-8 years ago. All the ones I have bought since then are junk. No matter what I set the regulator at, the pressure still reads the same. I can crank it in, and out and the pressure gauge doesn't change at all. I stopped buying these things after I got burnt twice. I figured I just got a bad one at first, but the second time soured me on them for good.

2) On the Holley 1-4 psi regulator cranking the screw in will raise the fuel pressure. Backing the screw out will lower it. It doesn't matter how the hoses are set up. There is one inlet, and two outlets. Both outlets will read the same pressure. One outlet typically goes to your gauge, the other to your carb. I think Neanderthol may be backwards on his explanation. I mounted my Holley regulator on the fuel supply line, and cranking the screw in raises the pressure.

If you are still having problems you might try a higher quality regulator, if your budget can take it. I recommend the Mallory 4309 from Summit.

 

One other thing, if you are running a second fuel filter in your setup make sure that it comes before the regulator, not after.

 

For holley, A is low, B is high.

 

Thanks everyone. Yeah it's definitely a cheap universal, I hope it works better than the ones you had GlazedHam! I'll give a stab at it tomorrow.

 

Boom, and the Neanderthal man fails. Sorry, bud. Yes the above is right, I had it backwards in my first post. Sorry I haven't used that sort of regulator in a while. I also agree that the mallory 4309 is a great regulator.

Have you changed anything else besides the fuel pump and regulator? Have you messed with the carburetor at all? Or rebuilt it? What have you changed that caused the carb to be spraying fuel? Or did you buy the car that way?

 

I dropped, cleaned and re-hung the fuel tank.
Installed Carter 4070 (1-9 psi, I think)
Universal FPR
Rebuilt and mostly stripped Nikki
and it's spraying from here:


So this is either because of way too much pressure,
also possibly because I didn't tighten that nut enough.

 

You aren't missing the aluminum crush washer there are you? I know that there's 3 or 4 of them in that fuel inlet assembly. Make sure you didn't leave the crush washer out when you reassembled. The Mazda carb manual shows the exploded view of that area.

 

Thanks guys, I was wondering this myself. I just hooked mine up after having it for a long time. I couldn't find the damned instructions.

 

I do have all the aluminum washers in there. Perhaps I haven't tightened it enough, or perhaps the washers are poor quality (seemed like a cheap rebuild kit.)

 

Make sure that the return fuel line isn't clogged. It's possible that could be causing your issues. It could be clogged anywhere between the carb and the tank. Blow your lines out with compressed air to make sure they are clear.

 

The washers are possibly poor quality, but usually a cheap rebuild kit will come with "paper" washers instead of the aluminum crush washers. In my experience, aluminum crush washers = good rebuild kit. I've also never had an aluminum crush washer leak, and for that matter, even the paper washers have never leaked.

 

Oh geez I'm a moron. The nut holding on the return line was good but the deeper nut-on-a-pipe was completely loose. No idea how that happened. However, there's still no fuel coming out the carb. I'm going to toss on the old carb and see what happens. Working on a Nikki - now familiar territory for me.