Roll Painted My 7
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Roll Painted My 7
I used the many pages of the mopar thread and our own
i did 8 coats got really lazy on wetsanding so its not perfectkly smooth
but im happy with result, ( yoy should have seen it before[sorry no before afgter pics]) took about 2 weeks because i worked too much but great drying time
i spent a total of 150 for all supplies but basic stuff should cost you no greater than
50 bucks. i used rustoleum prfessional "hunter green"
i did 8 coats got really lazy on wetsanding so its not perfectkly smooth
but im happy with result, ( yoy should have seen it before[sorry no before afgter pics]) took about 2 weeks because i worked too much but great drying time
i spent a total of 150 for all supplies but basic stuff should cost you no greater than
50 bucks. i used rustoleum prfessional "hunter green"
#7
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that dent i gave up on i was gonna bondo but figured it was way too deep
damn quarter size hole that i was trying to pop it out tyhroug the inside
damn quarter size hole that i was trying to pop it out tyhroug the inside
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#10
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I like it. Get a good buffing compound and work up a good sweat to bring out the shine.
Try the dry ice method to pop those dents out. Worth a shot.
Try the dry ice method to pop those dents out. Worth a shot.
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Looks good!
You can get a slide hammer at Harborfreight pretty cheap that makes dent pulling easier. The trick is to not pull it too far out, so that you can fill the slight depressions and you don't touch the underlying metal.
You might also try the "Ding King" which works OK for some dents. Some guys have used a suction cup with some success, but by the time you spend all the time on either of those two methods you might as well have surrendered a slidehammer hole since you'll end up filling anyhow.
You can still do it. Then apply a couple of final coats and you're home free.
The Hunter Green isn't an original color, but that's OK. Looks like "BRG" (British Racing Green).
Actually, the underlying bodywork is the easist since it is tedious and time-consuming to rub-out the finish.
You can get a slide hammer at Harborfreight pretty cheap that makes dent pulling easier. The trick is to not pull it too far out, so that you can fill the slight depressions and you don't touch the underlying metal.
You might also try the "Ding King" which works OK for some dents. Some guys have used a suction cup with some success, but by the time you spend all the time on either of those two methods you might as well have surrendered a slidehammer hole since you'll end up filling anyhow.
You can still do it. Then apply a couple of final coats and you're home free.
The Hunter Green isn't an original color, but that's OK. Looks like "BRG" (British Racing Green).
Actually, the underlying bodywork is the easist since it is tedious and time-consuming to rub-out the finish.
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I've leveled out bondo areas (and Real Lead before that!) with block sanding and with a 1/4 sheet palm sander, but then I picked up a 1/3 sheet sander pretty cheap somewhere and it is MUCH better than the 1/4 sheet sander, even tho it seems like it wouldn't be that much better.
Pull out those dents, man, and roll a little more of that BRG on and you'll have old Brit car fans lining up around the block to gawk at it.
Pull out those dents, man, and roll a little more of that BRG on and you'll have old Brit car fans lining up around the block to gawk at it.
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I used the many pages of the mopar thread and our own
i did 8 coats got really lazy on wetsanding so its not perfectkly smooth
but im happy with result, ( yoy should have seen it before[sorry no before afgter pics]) took about 2 weeks because i worked too much but great drying time
i spent a total of 150 for all supplies but basic stuff should cost you no greater than
50 bucks. i used rustoleum prfessional "hunter green"
i did 8 coats got really lazy on wetsanding so its not perfectkly smooth
but im happy with result, ( yoy should have seen it before[sorry no before afgter pics]) took about 2 weeks because i worked too much but great drying time
i spent a total of 150 for all supplies but basic stuff should cost you no greater than
50 bucks. i used rustoleum prfessional "hunter green"
looks decent but nothing to brag about
#18
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The rustoleum paint lays down pretty nicely with a roller or a gun. Alot of mopar guys have had amazing results using that paint.
I painted my S10 flat black with rustoleum. It's a tough paint, and it prevents rust really well haha.
Looks great though, some wet sanding and buffing will make it look like a much more expensive paint job.
I painted my S10 flat black with rustoleum. It's a tough paint, and it prevents rust really well haha.
Looks great though, some wet sanding and buffing will make it look like a much more expensive paint job.
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looks good you did it your self instead of paying some one else so its more personal good job and lets face it you didn't make yours look like everybody Else's thats one thing that bugs me about people building cars they should be an extension of you not the same thing that somebody else has done
#21
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i rolled my old 85 GSL. it was right after a major surgery so i wasnt really up to doing much. esspecially A LOT of sanding in the sun. i got lazy and started laying the coats on too thick. i didnt care. i just wanted a good 20 ft look. i used polyurethane boat paint. its GREAT paint and strong as crap, even after a speeding truck smashed it.
after doing it once, i wouldnt do it again. too much trouble. i LOVED the paint, but id spray it next time.
after doing it once, i wouldnt do it again. too much trouble. i LOVED the paint, but id spray it next time.
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^^^^^
oooooh thats rough dude, its eye is poped out lol
Thanks to all interested and who comented
and YES i really wanted to pop that crater but i tried most things with no success, i tried the " Dent King" it worked for one other dent on the same side of crater but on fender, then i tried poppoing it out from the inside but extremelyh dificult to acces area through quarter size hole.
I had a really bout 1/6 in deep 12" long rusted scratch on right fender but bondoed that as well as other scratch similar to that on front fender area and ik also had multiple rust holes on the hatch thing , i bondoed it all and only primed bondoed areas
pretty much if i would do it again i would also sray it on next time
VERY time consuming. ALOT of elbow grease needed
once again thanks to all haters and lovers alike
peace
oooooh thats rough dude, its eye is poped out lol
Thanks to all interested and who comented
and YES i really wanted to pop that crater but i tried most things with no success, i tried the " Dent King" it worked for one other dent on the same side of crater but on fender, then i tried poppoing it out from the inside but extremelyh dificult to acces area through quarter size hole.
I had a really bout 1/6 in deep 12" long rusted scratch on right fender but bondoed that as well as other scratch similar to that on front fender area and ik also had multiple rust holes on the hatch thing , i bondoed it all and only primed bondoed areas
pretty much if i would do it again i would also sray it on next time
VERY time consuming. ALOT of elbow grease needed
once again thanks to all haters and lovers alike
peace