rotaxrave

on my 1984 glsse there is a electronic adjustment screw behind the air filter box. Its undersome rubber but when the rubber is removed there is a screw. anyway the screw does about 180 degrees of turn, with a rich side and lean side. Anyway i looked at it the 1st time since i bought the car 1 year ago and noticed the rubber was off and it cleary had been tampered with by the previous (retarted) owner. Anyway (cause he thought it would give much better gas milage) he had turned it about 99% to the lean side.

Could this be the reason the car shoots fire, the exhaust burns out gaskets, and gets terrible gas milage. And it sounds lean, like in the way a 2stroke sounds lean. Anyway should this screw be halfway between R and L, as that would be the best. Thanks all help appreciated....

DanielBlakley

It could be your rich/lean adjust screw for sure. Of course on a GSL-SE it could be a whole bunch of stuff combined... Anyways lets assume everything else is already set-up correctly: First things first, turn off all accessories (lights, a/c, etc.). Next you are going to want to take your fuel cap off. Now your going to just start your car and let it warm to its normal temperature. Next your going to go under your hood and looking at the oil fill cap from the drivers side you should see two WHITE connectors right to the right of it. One of the connectors is attached to a funky little thing right above it hanging off your intake (Bypass Air Control Valve). don't disconnect that one instead disconnect the other one (it should be coming from the mess of wires and crap underneath your intake). For future reference that was your Vent and Vacuum solenoid connector. Now your finally ready to get tunning! Right on top of your throttle body there should be a little screw sticking out (about two inches or so towards the passenger side of your car from the second E in the RE-EGI thats imprinted on the top of your Intake manifold); this is your air adjust screw and you are going to turn it until your car idles at 800 rpm. Next you are going to go to your rich/lean adjust screw and turn it until it causes the idle speed to go the highest it will go by just turning that screw. Now you are going to go back to the air adjust screw and readjust your idle to 800 rpm just by adjusting that screw. One more step! Go back to your rich/lean adjust screw and turn it counter-clockwise (I believe) until the engine speed drops to 780rpm (very small drop) and then turn it clockwise again until it just becomes 800rpm again (hint: on your tachometer the first fat mark is 500rpm and then each one up to 1,000 is 100 rpm more). Assuming everything else is correctly adjusted you should be good to go!

RXnos1200

iTrader: (24)

Could this be the reason the car shoots fire, the exhaust burns out gaskets, and gets terrible gas milage. And it sounds lean, like in the way a 2stroke sounds lean. Anyway should this screw be halfway between R and L, as that would be the best. Thanks all help appreciated....

That adjustment is in effect while idling. Once you get on the gas the AFM takes over. I think you're having other issues. Ckeck out Longduck's post on this issue. Do you still have a stock exhaust system?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

DO NOT touch that screw for mixture purposes. its called a variable resistor and its for FINE adjustments of the idle. VERY rarely do you need to mess with it! you are running rich, but you need to make sure your ignition system is up to par as well. look at trochoid's signature. he has the fsm's in it that will explain a lot of the systems of the gsl-se that you need to know before you go messing with a ton of stuff.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i forgot to add yesterday that you shouldnt mess with it for mixture purposes until you have followed the steps necessary to adjust the mixture. if you need i can post the fsm pages that tell you how to adjust it.

rotaxrave

thanks. Ill try the idle adjsut ing meathod with unpluggging the bac valve. When i unplug it thought the car dies...

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

like i said, if you need the fsm pages let me know and i'll post them up for you!

rotaxrave

the fsm parges and gslse idle troubleshooting pages are all bookmarked all over my browser lol. Thanks u steered me in the right direction where to look.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

any time. if you need anything or have any questions, feel free to ask!

rotaxrave

i have strait pipes. And there is switch that i believe turns the ports on and off, much like wiring hte ports open would, but it breaks the connection when u want it to and when its off the ports dont open and hte car stutters after 4-5k. But when its back the ports are wired open i think so i think this is cauasing it to be too rich in the bottom end (down under about 3-4K) and much much leaner at the top. Is there anyway to open the ports on strait pipe systems besides wring the ports open?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

This is how I do the aux port activation. It's simple, cheap and it works. I've done this on my S4 and a friends SE, works great. Nice thing is it's 10 bucks in parts at the the local hardware store in the plumbing section. You will need a 1/8" NPT tap for the mounting hole. All of the fittings are 1/8" NPT brass and the copper line, ( this is a compression fitting so find the correct elbow), is the same one used to supply the ice maker for the fridge.

When the aux ports on my S4 open up, it feels just like the secondaries opening up of a 4 barrel Holley on a V8. It even impresses a friend of mine that has an S4 TII, lol.

Keep in mind that the aux ports only need 2.5-4 psi to open them. If it takes more than that, remove the intake and clean out the carbon. The sleeves can be real about carbon binding/locking.

Pic is in this thread. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/6-port-gorus-help-404297/