notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

Is replacing the tie rod ends inner/outer a do it your self job ?

I have tools and a some skills but I get scared when working on something as important as steering, -is this something that I would wish I took to a professional or is it not that bad ?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Replacing tie rods are a straight forward job. Just remember to have it aligned afterwards but you probably already know that.

If you don't have a tie rod seperator then you can turn the castle nut upsode down and hit it with a hammer.

Rogue_Wulff

It is usually pretty easy, as long as you have the right tools. Rent a tie-rod fork if you want to attempt this task. Do not even try to do it without the fork.
When removing the old ends from the center adjuster, count the threads that were coved, and turn the new in the same number of turns. This will not be perfect, but will be close enough to get you to an alignment shop, without wearing your tires too much.

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

what would it cost to rent this tie rod fork ? and where ?

thanks

ray green

iTrader: (14)

The tie rod fork, otherwise known as a "pickle fork" is a relatively simple and inexpensive tool, probably about $20 at the parts store or you could rent one for about $5.00 (I'd buy it). The reason it's called a pickle fork is that it has two tapered prongs (kind of like a pickle fork) that slip on either side of the tie rod joint, then you hammer the handle to drive the tapered fork between the tie rod joint and its mounting hole on the steering linkage to separate the joint.

As Rogue Wolff suggests, if you count the turns on the old tie rods and then reinstall the new ones with the same number of turns your alignment will be pretty close. Doing the final toe in adjustment is really pretty easy and even an amateur can do a perfect job with a little patience.

Get about 30 feet of strong string and tie one end to the tow loop on one side of the front of the car. Put the car on level ground then stretch the string around the back of the car and back up to the front on the other side, so that the string runs along the center of the tire (even with the axle). Then tie the string to the front tow loop on the other side, making sure the string is tightly stretched.

Now you have a perfectly straight line from the back of the car to the front, with the string telling you if the wheels are aligned. Even a very slight misalignment will reveal itself as a gap between the string and the rear edge of the front tires if it is toed out, if it is toed in the string will be pushed out a bit by the back edge of the tires.

You need to adjust the tie rods so that the steering wheel is pointed straight ahead, the string is perfectly straight and there are no gaps between the string and the rear edges of the front tires.

Then when every thing is straight ahead give it about a 1/8" toe in on each side by lengthening the tie rod a bit.

I've been doing this for years with my 7's and other cars before that, works every time if toe in is the only alignment needed.

Ray

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

wow thats a good write up/advice, thanks ray

ray green

iTrader: (14)

You're welcome, it's kinda fun to do.

mbaha

I just did this job, it was pretty easy. I would order your parts from rockauto.com the parts will arrive in a few days and it should save you some $$. Order inter and outer tie rods and the tie rod end adjusting sleeve. You could reuse the old adjusting sleeve but mine was stuck so I decided just to order a new one so I would not have to hassle with it and I could make sure the new ones where adjusted correctly.

For tools I would use the Auto Zone loan a tool program. It is pretty cool. You pick out the tools you want they charge you for them in full and when you are done just return them for a full refund.
You will need:
a tie rod separator http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stor..._suspension.htm

and a tie rod end puller? http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stor...specialized.htm


EDIT forgot to add the 5% rock auto code
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t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Nice shadetree technique for toe adjustment. If you autox you may want to leave it at zero or slightly toed out so turns are a bit snappier. This should be archived.

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

mbaha -I just ordered new tie rods inner/outter, idler arm bush. adjusting sleeves, lower control arm bush and some other stuff from rockauto. they have very good prices and quick shipping, I would recomend them to anybody.

Kentetsu

Rather than using a pickle fork, I prefer to use a pitman arm remover (small size). I have used both, and the pa remover just works better (plus you don't have to use a hammer)...

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Did this a couple of weeks ago, also did ball joints, idler arm bushings, tension rod bushings control arm bushings and sway bar bushings, if its worth doing , its worth doing well, my car is totally transformed.

Ball joint need to be pressed in, I took mine to my local NAPA for this. I bought all parts from Rockauto except delrin idler arm bushing which I lucked out on in here.

Simple job really, just take you time and be careful to double check every bolt is tighted once you finished, then have it aligned prior to any long trips.

Oh, and I use a heavy brass hammer on the ball joints to seperate them from the tie rods, just bang away on the side and they will drop out, I have a pickle fork but the old hammer works great.

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

aussie, I couldn't find the tension rod bushings on rockauto page, do you happen to remember what the part number was or could you link me to the page where you order them, I have to put in another order through them soon as they forgot something the first time and would rather only pay shipping once.