Replacing headlight retractor rods...
I need to replace one of the long headlight retractor rods in my 85 GSL, as one of the bushings has basically disintegrated, causing the headlight to sort of sag.
I got a brand new replacement from Black Dragon--complete with brand new bushings ( Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7) --but frankly I'm at a loss as to how to safely remove the rod (since the remaining bushing is still intact), and then install the new one without bending it or breaking the new bushings.
I was concerned enough that I went to local pick n pull where they had a first gen and experimented a bit with trying to pull out the long rod--but only succeeded in bending the rod and breaking the bushings as I pulled it out.
That wouldn't be so bad since I'm replacing the old one, but I'm afraid the installation process might have similar difficulties.
Has anyone dealt with this issue? Your insights and guidance would be much appreciated!
Thx.
I got a brand new replacement from Black Dragon--complete with brand new bushings ( Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7) --but frankly I'm at a loss as to how to safely remove the rod (since the remaining bushing is still intact), and then install the new one without bending it or breaking the new bushings.
I was concerned enough that I went to local pick n pull where they had a first gen and experimented a bit with trying to pull out the long rod--but only succeeded in bending the rod and breaking the bushings as I pulled it out.
That wouldn't be so bad since I'm replacing the old one, but I'm afraid the installation process might have similar difficulties.
Has anyone dealt with this issue? Your insights and guidance would be much appreciated!
Thx.
I think EVERYONE just about with a first gen has faced this issue. The bushings are quite brittle and separate from the metal rod. What has worked for me is to grease the plastic part that is in contact with the metal "bulb" and gently pull straight out. Most times you will break the plastic, but not bend the metal. The new ones, I would just lube really well and push straight on. Shouldn't be a problem.
A little WD-40 or lube does not hurt, and as already pointed out, the old plastic is brittle. I use a screw driver right between the rod/bushing and the ajoining piece. A little twist of the wrist and the pressure is applied right the connection instead of tugging through the rod itself.
Some guys have improvised simple replacements for the bushings like a regular rubber gromments (used in holes where wires run through). Keep em lubed and they seem to work good, keeping those old arms usable.
Some guys have improvised simple replacements for the bushings like a regular rubber gromments (used in holes where wires run through). Keep em lubed and they seem to work good, keeping those old arms usable.
Thanks for the input. Did the replacement today, with a little strategic use of pliers. The bushings did indeed pop off, and on, gently with a little bit of leverage and WD40.
A related question: Does anyone know if bushings of this type are available separately?
After examining them, they didn't seem especially unique, I figured McMaster-Carr might have them, but couldn't find a match (although I could have easily missed it).
Anybody have any thoughts on this (as well as links if available)?
Thanks!
After examining them, they didn't seem especially unique, I figured McMaster-Carr might have them, but couldn't find a match (although I could have easily missed it).
Anybody have any thoughts on this (as well as links if available)?
Thanks!
Yea, I combed McMaster and Graingers, looking for what application they may have. Probably an overseas manufacturer. If you want OEM you have to go to Mazda. At least they can still be had. One member cast a few replicas out of a resin once. Same type of bushing is used on the wiper linkage.
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In my opinion Mazda failed on this part. The best solution I have found is just to make your own linkage arms using ball joints. It may be over-engineering, but they will last much longer and the joints are replaceable. McMaster-Carr has many options.
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