Replacing front struts
10-31-16, 06:31 PM
#1
Replacing front struts
The last time I did this was 1981 on my Rx3.
My Haynes book (I think) had this process of clamping the springs with metal flats bent at both ends to hook on, and tying them on with rope, while the spring was compressed under weight of the car. Then disconnecting from the top only. My memory has faded but I still have the clamping flats.
Is anything like this possible on a 84 Rx7 GSL?
Or, just follow the FSM?
My Haynes book (I think) had this process of clamping the springs with metal flats bent at both ends to hook on, and tying them on with rope, while the spring was compressed under weight of the car. Then disconnecting from the top only. My memory has faded but I still have the clamping flats.
Is anything like this possible on a 84 Rx7 GSL?
Or, just follow the FSM?
10-31-16, 08:35 PM
#2
ancient wizard...
May not need to do any of this,bet you can squeeze the spring by hand enough to take tension off strut top. I was able to clamp entire strut assly. in vise with soft jaws and zip nut off with impact gun,strut top moved maybe1/4". If using same springs over just do reverse. I used RB springs on reassembly. One last tip,before removing strut from car,reach in with channelock pliers to retainer nut on strut tube and loosen it,much easier done with car holding it for you.
11-01-16, 07:54 PM
#4
Take the whole strut assembly out of the car and compress it with one of these.
Single Action Strut Spring Compressor
Its safe and doesn't involve rope and other extremely dangerous situations. Don't play around with a spring that has the potential to shoot through a sheet of metal, or lob off otherwise useful fingers.
Single Action Strut Spring Compressor
Its safe and doesn't involve rope and other extremely dangerous situations. Don't play around with a spring that has the potential to shoot through a sheet of metal, or lob off otherwise useful fingers.
11-01-16, 08:17 PM
#5
ancient wizard...
Have spring compressor,installed on first strut to compress spring,just a little more than hand tight strut top was loose,2nd strut just popped retainer nut off no tension to speak of. Have done struts on lots of other type cars where compressed spring stored a lot of energy. Not so much so with 30yr. old light car like an fb.
11-01-16, 08:25 PM
#6
Just saying its 8 bolts to remove the assembly.
Two caliper bolts
Two lower strut to LCA bolts
Four strut mount to body bolts
Besides you are replacing the strut insert not just the spring. So you're gonna need to eventually take the spindle out of the vehicle.
Also, you should be replacing the strut mount while you are at it. Which requires taking the mount off anyway.
Don't forget to drop an ounce of oil down in the spindle where the strut is inserted into prior to re-assembly.
Two caliper bolts
Two lower strut to LCA bolts
Four strut mount to body bolts
Besides you are replacing the strut insert not just the spring. So you're gonna need to eventually take the spindle out of the vehicle.
Also, you should be replacing the strut mount while you are at it. Which requires taking the mount off anyway.
Don't forget to drop an ounce of oil down in the spindle where the strut is inserted into prior to re-assembly.
11-01-16, 08:38 PM
#7
Most manuals say to put antifreeze, not oil in the shaft before installing the shock.
As said above, go to Autozone and get the compressors if you are removing and installing *OEM springs. They charge you for the tool, and refund you when you bring them back.
* Non-OEM springs like racing beat are short enough to compress by hand and have very little pre-load. You don't need a compressor to remove and reinstall them.
As said above, go to Autozone and get the compressors if you are removing and installing *OEM springs. They charge you for the tool, and refund you when you bring them back.
* Non-OEM springs like racing beat are short enough to compress by hand and have very little pre-load. You don't need a compressor to remove and reinstall them.
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11-01-16, 08:42 PM
#8
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Take a very close look at your strut top bearings, too. After 30+ years, they're likely about to tear through the rubber mounting and when they do, the shock rod and retaining nuts will pop through and shove your hood up on that corner. I found this after installing a strut tower brace which stiffened up the front enough to cause the strut bearing to fail. Cheap insurance to replace while you have it all apart.
Like the other guys said, tying the springs in compressed state before you raise the car will make replacement very easy. I used 550 paracord wrapped multiple times per side, and then just cut the paracord when ready to expand them. Works well enough, but be careful, regardless.
Like the other guys said, tying the springs in compressed state before you raise the car will make replacement very easy. I used 550 paracord wrapped multiple times per side, and then just cut the paracord when ready to expand them. Works well enough, but be careful, regardless.
11-01-16, 08:47 PM
#9
ancient wizard...
Need to remove the assly. completely from car to do any strut service properly,only thing that needs to be done on the car is to loosen retainer nut on strut cartridge. Lot easier with strut mounted in car than trying to loosen and hold onto strut assly at same time.
11-02-16, 08:47 AM
#10
There used to be a write up on the forum about doing this. It was insanely helpful. I followed it and got everything replaced both front and rear in a day. This was my first ever strut/spring install and it went pretty smooth with the help of a 2 foot breaker bar vice grips and a cheap electric impact.
11-02-16, 07:09 PM
#11
Thanks for all the replies.
O'Rielly is where I've been getting the tool loans.
Yes I had the left strut assembly out last may due to a broken bolt while replacing the LCR:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...bolts-1099870/
Loosing the retaining nut while in the car is excellent advise. I do not have a soft-jaw vice.
I was going to keep the OEM springs and replace the shock with KYB GR-2's.
I raised up the front end and pulled each wheel outward and there was noticed a small amount of free play. Nothing moved on the inside, it was the wheel on the spindle. The front bearings have never been replaced and it has 165k miles.
And I'll look very closely at the strut top mounts.
I'm probably missing something.
I did read through the recent threads on front suspension upgrades. This is my daily driver, when weather permits.
O'Rielly is where I've been getting the tool loans.
Yes I had the left strut assembly out last may due to a broken bolt while replacing the LCR:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...bolts-1099870/
Loosing the retaining nut while in the car is excellent advise. I do not have a soft-jaw vice.
I was going to keep the OEM springs and replace the shock with KYB GR-2's.
I raised up the front end and pulled each wheel outward and there was noticed a small amount of free play. Nothing moved on the inside, it was the wheel on the spindle. The front bearings have never been replaced and it has 165k miles.
And I'll look very closely at the strut top mounts.
I'm probably missing something.
I did read through the recent threads on front suspension upgrades. This is my daily driver, when weather permits.
11-02-16, 07:58 PM
#12
Your bearings are loose. They need to be serviced occasionally even if they are not wearing.
Tighten the retaining nut on the end of the spindle. That will solve your wheel bearing play issues. DO NOT over tighten it. Hand tighten it just too; then back it off a wee bit. Spin the wheel some and repeat the hand tightening. Do this a few times and check the play.
Re-packing the bearings is NEVER a bad idea.
Tighten the retaining nut on the end of the spindle. That will solve your wheel bearing play issues. DO NOT over tighten it. Hand tighten it just too; then back it off a wee bit. Spin the wheel some and repeat the hand tightening. Do this a few times and check the play.
Re-packing the bearings is NEVER a bad idea.
11-02-16, 08:09 PM
#13
ancient wizard...
Go to hardware store and buy 1' of 2"x2" x1/8" aluminum angle, cut in half,there's your soft inserts for your vice,works great. Would replace those bearings,can get good quality,good price at Rock auto,same for strut mounts. I used KYB,same exact part that came on car,check ebay for this stuff,can save some money. ASk questions, did complete front/rear suspension on my car last winter. Took lots of pics to document work for ins.purposes,certain to have disassemble/assembled pics if you need for reference.
11-13-16, 06:42 PM
#14
I've replaced & repacked front bearings on Ford E150 and E250. FB is the same concept, but smaller pieces.
I have both struts on the workbench. I was able to loosen the top piston retaining nut, but only by clamping vicegrips on the piston by the spring. Not what I want to do when assembling with the new cartridge.
The Haynes book and the FSM are no help. They just say "remove the nut."
I did find this:
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/macphersonstruts/
(see first image) Mentions the dreaded special tool, and a work-around of a long socket turned with vicegrips and a torx bit to hold the piston stationary. However the top of our pistons is different (second image).
Sears has a Schwaben Strut Nut Socket, but only 22 or 18mm. Other outlets have a 21mm. But the problem of holding the piston stationary may not be solved.
Any helpful hints on getting the nut torqued to spec would be appreciated.
I have both struts on the workbench. I was able to loosen the top piston retaining nut, but only by clamping vicegrips on the piston by the spring. Not what I want to do when assembling with the new cartridge.
The Haynes book and the FSM are no help. They just say "remove the nut."
I did find this:
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/macphersonstruts/
(see first image) Mentions the dreaded special tool, and a work-around of a long socket turned with vicegrips and a torx bit to hold the piston stationary. However the top of our pistons is different (second image).
Sears has a Schwaben Strut Nut Socket, but only 22 or 18mm. Other outlets have a 21mm. But the problem of holding the piston stationary may not be solved.
Any helpful hints on getting the nut torqued to spec would be appreciated.
11-13-16, 07:00 PM
#15
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I have gotten the nuts off my car by using some Rubber around the shock shaft with vice grips and then Impacting the nut off.(split a hose and toss on the shaft..)
I do the same thing when putting them back on and honestly I don't use a torque wrench to torque to spec.I just zip on and done.
Grab it close to the strut bearing if you can.Reason being that the Shock will NEVER get compressed that far.If it does then it would be because your springs would have been totally disintegrated and you would have obviously noticed that!
I do the same thing when putting them back on and honestly I don't use a torque wrench to torque to spec.I just zip on and done.
Grab it close to the strut bearing if you can.Reason being that the Shock will NEVER get compressed that far.If it does then it would be because your springs would have been totally disintegrated and you would have obviously noticed that!
11-13-16, 07:05 PM
#16
I have gotten the nuts off my car by using some Rubber around the shock shaft with vice grips and then Impacting the nut off.(split a hose and toss on the shaft..)
I do the same thing when putting them back on and honestly I don't use a torque wrench to torque to spec.I just zip on and done.
Grab it close to the strut bearing if you can.Reason being that the Shock will NEVER get compressed that far.If it does then it would be because your springs would have been totally disintegrated and you would have obviously noticed that!
I do the same thing when putting them back on and honestly I don't use a torque wrench to torque to spec.I just zip on and done.
Grab it close to the strut bearing if you can.Reason being that the Shock will NEVER get compressed that far.If it does then it would be because your springs would have been totally disintegrated and you would have obviously noticed that!
Much easier than what I anticipated.
11-14-16, 06:04 AM
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
[QUOTE=Qingdao;12123958]Just find this guy... 
The casual cigarette is the icing on the cake.
The casual cigarette is the icing on the cake.
11-14-16, 05:56 PM
#19
Love the ingenuity.
I tried the visegrips & rubber hose, but it kept slipping.
I took an 11mm socket, 1/4" drive, & smacked the open end on opposite sides to flatten it a bit. Then used it to hold the center of the piston and used a deep 21mm socket in vicegrips to tighten the nut.
Paid $1.68 for the socket.
I tried the visegrips & rubber hose, but it kept slipping.
I took an 11mm socket, 1/4" drive, & smacked the open end on opposite sides to flatten it a bit. Then used it to hold the center of the piston and used a deep 21mm socket in vicegrips to tighten the nut.
Paid $1.68 for the socket.
11-14-16, 08:28 PM
#20
Love the ingenuity.
I tried the visegrips & rubber hose, but it kept slipping.
I took an 11mm socket, 1/4" drive, & smacked the open end on opposite sides to flatten it a bit. Then used it to hold the center of the piston and used a deep 21mm socket in vicegrips to tighten the nut.
Paid $1.68 for the socket.
I tried the visegrips & rubber hose, but it kept slipping.
I took an 11mm socket, 1/4" drive, & smacked the open end on opposite sides to flatten it a bit. Then used it to hold the center of the piston and used a deep 21mm socket in vicegrips to tighten the nut.
Paid $1.68 for the socket.
If you can't find a spark plug socket the right size with the hex portion; then just cut the impact socket you have shown here with a grinder to make two flat surfaces. Grind the flat surfaces till you can get a wrench on it.
11-17-16, 02:57 PM
#21
All done.
I went with a real spring compressor. Easy enough.
Once I had the springs off I tested the shock cartridges. Both were shot as there was resistance then none, and yes, then no. Handles much better now.
I was expecting a cartridge type shock, but the OEM was something quite different.
The 52mm retaining nut was a challenge. But a pipe wrench and hammer, and PB Blaster, finally got it to move.
@ LongDuck:
Good call on the strut top bracket. Mine had come to the end of their serviceable life.
Thanks.
I went with a real spring compressor. Easy enough.
Once I had the springs off I tested the shock cartridges. Both were shot as there was resistance then none, and yes, then no. Handles much better now.
I was expecting a cartridge type shock, but the OEM was something quite different.
The 52mm retaining nut was a challenge. But a pipe wrench and hammer, and PB Blaster, finally got it to move.
@ LongDuck:
Good call on the strut top bracket. Mine had come to the end of their serviceable life.
Thanks.