hammmy

Not too long back, I remember reading a post about someone that had replaced the O-rings from the beehive or oil filter pedestal (same P/N for both setups). This person had done quite a bit of research on how to determine the original O-ring diameter, as well as what material is best for O-rings that are exposed to oil.

I'd like to know what that material is. I bought two O-rings and crush washers (for the long oil line) for my '82 from a Mazda dealer, and I'd like to take them and use them as templates for finding alternate sources. I didn't feel good about paying $15 when the parts guy dropped 2 washers and 2 O-rings into my hand.

TIA,

BAN SUVS

I ordered mine from VB. They sure weren't that much and I haven't had any problems since replacing them. I wouldn't worry about it too much because this isn't something you replace at every oil change. They should last you another 20+ years.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I got mine from homedepot. I brought a pedestal with me. I should have gone to OSH. much cleaner and less crowded. EXCEPT, I cant remember the part # nor the size.

Unsupa

iTrader: (2)

i went to a local ace hardware and picked up a few o- rings. taking the pedestal is a good idea, i can't recall which ones i picked up, but they worked great.

xtrip03

11mm ID X 2.5mm width
McMaster Carr #9263K234 for pedestal orings (Viton)
10 pack is 5.73

24 hour delivery is usual

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Most auto part stores have an o-ring box behind the counter. Take your part in and get a ring that doesn't quite fill the machined circle they fit in. The rings need a little space around them to compress and fill the depression.

hammmy

OK, I need to clarify a bit. I have the new O-rings in hand, but I'd like, for the general benefit of the 7 community, to source a replacement O-ring that is made of a more durable material.

I looked through the VB catalog (the latest, with the dog-ugly 2nd gen on the cover) and didn't find the O-rings listed.

So, to sum up, I'm waiting for that person who I was originally referring to in the first post to drop by and remind me what the new and improved O-ring material is called.

-dave

hammmy

I've just remembered that I wanted to post dimensions on the crush washers and O-rings needed for these repairs.

The crush washers are 13/16" inner diameter, 15/16" outer diameter. The idiot dealer gave me 9/16"ID-13/16"OD washers, which basically cost me an unnecessary oil change and forced me to reuse the old ones until I can get the proper replacements. This, after I looked up and wrote down the proper crush washer from the parts diagram myself, and just brought that in, only to pay $15 for 2 O-rings and 2 washers.

The O-rings appeared to be 5/8"ID-13/16"OD. This wasn't scientific, as I didn't have one of those ring-sizing toys, but it was the best I could do at the time.

If someone could tell me what grade/material of washer is typically used as a crush washer, I'd appreciate it so I know where to go get it.

hammmy

Sheesh, I never saw this post, which is what I made the thread for in the 1st place. Good job on subscribed thread notifications, forum. Disregard my clumsy (and massively inaccurate) measurement on the O-rings.

Anyhoo, thanks a bunch xtrip03.

PT Ray

I posted a "bootleg" method to obtain the size of an o-ring in question. If the old one is still round I just take a set of calipers and measure the o.d. These are the no brainers and you can also get the o.d. or i.d. by measuring the item it went to. The way I get the thickness is then to measure the old flatten thickness of the o-ring which should give you the actual gap of where it has been and then add .5mm to get what it started out as. It was the oblong o-rings that required some thought. When I rebuilt my omp I had to get the size of the o-rings that went on each end. I accomplished this by wrapping a thin piece of paper (I used a page out of the phone book) around the the o-ring and marked the paper to get me the distance around the o-ring. I laid the paper flat and measured the distance with the calipers. I took this number and divide by pie to get the o.d. You can do the same to get the i.d. There was a little guess work but you usually have a little room to play with but I also ordered a couple different sizes. I ordered the o-rings made out of Viton which is a surperior material than the typical buna-n/nitrile.

speedracer_not

I walked down to the local el cheapo garage, and matched new air conditioning o-rings to my old ones. I figure if an 0-ring can withstand freon, it can easily withstand hot oil. He was the same guy that flushed the bee hive. He gave me the o-rings gratis.

3000 miles later, they are still good.

$15 huh?

hammmy

Good for you. I'm sure lots of people think oil and freon have similar properties.

speedracer_not

Freon is a better solvent, and smaller molecule. Hot pressurized freon could easy go through something impervious to oil. Freon is used in in degreasers.

I figure the mean time between failure (MTBF) goes way up after 3000 miles (silicon valley logic)......or if good so far, so fahget 'bout it (eastern jersey).......or ah the hell with it (alerbamer logic).....or like good now, so like who cares duh! (valley girl logic)......

Roundabout

iTrader: (8)

Followup to this thread:
I ordered these recently to replace my oil cooler o-rings and found that the diameter was a little small. They worked but I had to use a little Permatex Great Stuff to hold them in place as they barely sealed around the oil passages. I would recommend using a 12mm ID x 2.5mm (9262K236). Can anybody else back this up?
Justin

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I've ordered mine (the 11mm) but they aren't in yet. I'll let you know what I think when they get here

Jon

83 Misty Blue

iTrader: (1)

Time to bring this thread back to life. I dont usually post, i typically search and find the answer that i'm looking for. But since in this case i did my research ahead of time and ended up having the wrong o-rings to put my car back together i figured it warranted a response.

I agree with Justin, the 11mm ID is much too small. Refer to pictures below... In the first pic from left to right the first two are the o-rings that were hard/flattened out and causing the leak, the second two were in "ok" shape still flexible but somewhat flattened. The next two are the Viton O-rings that i ordered from McMaster after ordering the much smaller 11mm ones. The single small o-ring in the pic is the 11mm and you can visibly tell when placed in the recess it will restrict the oil flow by reducing the hole size.

If any one is looking to replace theirs and is in need let me know... I have several extra. I hope this helps.