Replaced OMP lines--still CLEAR
11-29-12, 03:18 PM
#1
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Replaced OMP lines--still CLEAR
I replaced both of my oil metering pump lines after I accidentally broke the originals. However, the new lines appear to not be filled with oil, they are still pretty clear. Is there a problem here? Or are the lines supposed to stay somewhat clear?
11-29-12, 05:29 PM
#2
Did you end up buying new ones or fabbing some up yourself from parts at home?
I ask because I did the same thing and my heart didn't beat for 3 seconds when I realized what I'd done. Luckily there was a car in the parts yard with OMP lines on it and I was lucky enough to make it to the yard before it closed and get myself a new set.
I think they turn that yellowish color after many years of use and heat in their position on the engine, but I'm not sure.
I ask because I did the same thing and my heart didn't beat for 3 seconds when I realized what I'd done. Luckily there was a car in the parts yard with OMP lines on it and I was lucky enough to make it to the yard before it closed and get myself a new set.
I think they turn that yellowish color after many years of use and heat in their position on the engine, but I'm not sure.
11-29-12, 06:29 PM
#3
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They're brand new lines from AtkinsRotary. The other thing is, today I was looking at them while the car was running and I couldn't make out any liquid passing through. When I touched them they weren't even very hot, just warm.
11-30-12, 01:58 AM
#6
Originally Posted by cfamilyfix
If you check the specs for the omp...it only injects oil at a certain rpm (2200) I dont believe it will do it at idle
11-30-12, 02:10 AM
#7
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How much do you guys premix with a working OMP? I don't want to disable the one that's in the car (since it works, and there is nothing wrong with it), however I'd like to also premix a bit - so that in the event it does stop working my motor has a less chance of exploding :/
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11-30-12, 07:44 AM
#8
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Theres a procedure to follow in the FSM thats very easy to determine if the MOP is doing its job.
Even at idle you will see some fluid flow. If your not seeing any, make sure the oil level is good.
Also make sure theres not a blockage at either end of the lines where they attach. The pump
doesn't have much pressure and will just stop flowing if there a blockage.
If your using the MOP then theres not need for premix. Do one or the other. Its up to you.
Even at idle you will see some fluid flow. If your not seeing any, make sure the oil level is good.
Also make sure theres not a blockage at either end of the lines where they attach. The pump
doesn't have much pressure and will just stop flowing if there a blockage.
If your using the MOP then theres not need for premix. Do one or the other. Its up to you.
11-30-12, 10:55 AM
#9
If your oil is really clean, it can be hard to see if the lines are full or not.
At 2000 RPM (like a choked cold start) it can easily take a couple minutes for new, empty lines to fill with oil; the oil moves in pulses of about a quarter-inch at a time, first on one line, then the other, with one pulse about every second or so (at 2k rpm).
Once they are full, you can't really see any movement unless you happen to spot a bubble going by. The testing procedure in the FSM is the real way to be sure things are working right.
Yes, they run even at idle. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes tops for them to fill, regardless of engine speed.
At 2000 RPM (like a choked cold start) it can easily take a couple minutes for new, empty lines to fill with oil; the oil moves in pulses of about a quarter-inch at a time, first on one line, then the other, with one pulse about every second or so (at 2k rpm).
Once they are full, you can't really see any movement unless you happen to spot a bubble going by. The testing procedure in the FSM is the real way to be sure things are working right.
Yes, they run even at idle. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes tops for them to fill, regardless of engine speed.
12-01-12, 11:28 AM
#11
If your oil is really clean, it can be hard to see if the lines are full or not.
At 2000 RPM (like a choked cold start) it can easily take a couple minutes for new, empty lines to fill with oil; the oil moves in pulses of about a quarter-inch at a time, first on one line, then the other, with one pulse about every second or so (at 2k rpm).
Once they are full, you can't really see any movement unless you happen to spot a bubble going by. The testing procedure in the FSM is the real way to be sure things are working right.
Yes, they run even at idle. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes tops for them to fill, regardless of engine speed.
At 2000 RPM (like a choked cold start) it can easily take a couple minutes for new, empty lines to fill with oil; the oil moves in pulses of about a quarter-inch at a time, first on one line, then the other, with one pulse about every second or so (at 2k rpm).
Once they are full, you can't really see any movement unless you happen to spot a bubble going by. The testing procedure in the FSM is the real way to be sure things are working right.
Yes, they run even at idle. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes tops for them to fill, regardless of engine speed.
12-01-12, 11:38 AM
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