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Everyone usually uses dry ice to remove it. I believe you break some dry ice over it in big chunks then let it sit for a while. It makes that gunking stuff hard so then you are able to smash it to pieces with a hammer.
A lot of people also use a chisel and hammer to remove it too. But it looks like it takes forever.
Dry ice and break it, or Heat and scrape it with a putty knife.
Paint it, then replace it with Dyno Mat to able to hear the person in the passenger seat talk, or to hear the radio.
How much actual weight is removed from car when removing the gunky sound deadening? I want to add some dynomat to my car, I was told to just place it over the OEM sound deadening. Would it be worth removing and then placing dynomat over.
This not a task for the faint-hearted. If you are racing, it may be worth it (although the weight saving isn't actually that much - maybe 10kg from memory?). But if you're replacing with sound deadening anyway, you'll actually end up adding weight - Dynamat will weigh more than the factory deadening I'm quite sure.
The only reason to actually remove it in a street car is for rust repair, but the OP being in Melbourne (same as me) probably doesn't have rust problems that bad. Floor pan rust would be highly unusual for a 1st gen here.
Removing the OEM tar stuff is a bad idea for the reasons others have stated. The weight savings excuse is especially bogus when you consider this weight is basically at the lowest point on the car, where adding weight can be of some benefit.
09-16-16, 10:13 AM
