1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Removing brake caliper bracket

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-22-05, 04:57 PM
  #1  
Go Hawks!

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
64mgb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Removing brake caliper bracket

How in the world do you remove the front brake caliper bracket on an '85 GS so you can remove the rotor? The lower bolt is hidden right behind the steering arm, so I assume you have to remve the steering arm...is this correct?
Old 01-22-05, 05:07 PM
  #2  
Dom
callin' tokyo

 
Dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You can reach in there with a 17 mm wrench. That's how I took mine off.
Old 01-22-05, 05:13 PM
  #3  
JDGJr

 
JDGJr85GSLSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: 7400 ft plus jack stands
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
NO! don't remove the steering arm.

One of my books suggested using a box wrench, and a large flat-head screwdriver wedged between the arm and the wrench to keep the wrench in place. worked great for me.
Old 01-22-05, 05:16 PM
  #4  
Never Follow

iTrader: (18)
 
82transam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 8,305
Likes: 0
Received 67 Likes on 49 Posts
A regular wrench *can* work, but I would suggest getting a set of offset head wrenches. Sears has them and they will come in handy elsewhere. Good addition to you're toolset
Old 01-22-05, 05:17 PM
  #5  
Go Hawks!

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
64mgb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dom
You can reach in there with a 17 mm wrench. That's how I took mine off.
Actually, it's a 14mm bolt...I can get a wrench on it, but not enough to be able to get any leverage on it.
Old 01-22-05, 05:18 PM
  #6  
Go Hawks!

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
64mgb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 82transam
A regular wrench *can* work, but I would suggest getting a set of offset head wrenches. Sears has them and they will come in handy elsewhere. Good addition to you're toolset
Alright! A trip to Sears is in order! Thanks.

Rich
Old 01-22-05, 05:23 PM
  #7  
sprayfoam autobody expert

 
tempusfugitive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Fergus Ontario
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
as bad as this may sound, i just cut the lip off that was blocking the bolt, i took maybe 1/4" off, just enough to get a normal wrench in
Old 01-22-05, 05:24 PM
  #8  
Go Hawks!

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
64mgb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JDGJr85GSLSE
NO! don't remove the steering arm.

One of my books suggested using a box wrench, and a large flat-head screwdriver wedged between the arm and the wrench to keep the wrench in place. worked great for me.
Hey! That worked great. Thanks. But I think I'll still run to Sears in the morning (it's beer thirty now )and get a set of offset wrenches.

Rich
Old 01-22-05, 07:27 PM
  #9  
JDGJr

 
JDGJr85GSLSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: 7400 ft plus jack stands
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
any excuse to buy good tools, is a good excuse. glad it worked for ya!

now to ask my question about rusted rear disc brakes, but that's another thread...
Old 01-22-05, 09:57 PM
  #10  
Never Follow

iTrader: (18)
 
82transam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 8,305
Likes: 0
Received 67 Likes on 49 Posts
yea, good tools are always nice. I've done the job the other ways, but getting those wrenches is *much* easier, stripping the head off that bolt isn't fun, let me tell you.
Old 01-22-05, 10:28 PM
  #11  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (2)
 
dj55b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 6,122
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
i guess that i should of asked about that before i took the whole arm off silly me
Old 08-26-05, 02:53 PM
  #12  
****ty Tune= Low #'s

 
Rusty Shackleford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Charleston, SC (chucktown!)
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
just came on here to ask but searched first looks like im going for a drive now because the bolt is pretty much already stripped...........and im not making it any better
Old 08-26-05, 04:39 PM
  #13  
Censored

iTrader: (14)
 
ray green's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Georgia
Posts: 11,368
Received 176 Likes on 137 Posts
I've been just using a 14 mm wrench and some patience mixed with a good deal of frustration to loosen the lower bolt, along with a 12 inch piece of 1.5 inch schedule 40 PVC to leverage the wrench. You need to get everything set up just right, but it works. The hard part is once you get it loose, there's not enough room to release the caliper because you can't back the bolt all the way off. When this happens, turn the steering wheel to get the best angle, then use a large flat screwdriver to pry out the 1/16 inch that you need to release the bolt. Eventually, the damn thing falls off. Then write a nasty letter to the mazda engineers.

Ray
Old 08-26-05, 04:42 PM
  #14  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
christaylor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by tempusfugitive
as bad as this may sound, i just cut the lip off that was blocking the bolt, i took maybe 1/4" off, just enough to get a normal wrench in
I took it all the way down to the backing plate. It's like that on every car I regularly work on, because it's retarded from the factory. I still use an offset (Wurth) wrench to get it off.... partly because the offset wrench is about 8" long.
Old 08-26-05, 08:30 PM
  #15  
Rotoholic Moderookie

iTrader: (4)
 
vipernicus42's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 5,962
Received 29 Likes on 24 Posts
First you douse the area with the strongest penetrating lubricant you can find. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, whatever you can get.

Then get in there with a stubby 14mm wrench and the flat part of the tire-iron. You will barely be able to get the wrench in there. Once you crack the bolt loose, get the box end out and use the open end. You won't be able to fully remove the bolt, but you'll be able to get it out enough to get the mounting bracket off. Then you can get the rotor off, and finally the backing plate comes off.

If you do what I did and forgoe the penetrating oil, you can end up stripping that forkin' bolt (like I did).

What we have to do on Eric's car now that the bolt is stripped is take the whole damn thing out. We think that two bolts on the bottom and four on the shock tower should get it out. We need to install the shocks and springs on the front anyway. I just hope I can get it out of there without taking the rotor off. The Heynes and FSM say I have to take the bracket off, THEN the rotor, THEN take the whole spindle assembly out. I'm hoping I can do it out-of order.

Jon
Old 08-27-05, 12:15 AM
  #16  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
christaylor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
You can get the rotor out with the bracket still attached, but that bolt needs to be loose.... I don't think there's nearly enough play to get that sucker out with the bolt still firmly in place.

Worst case, bust out the cuttin' wheel and kill 2 birds with one stone (cut the lip & bolt).
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Marty RE
New Member RX-7 Technical
0
08-17-15 09:36 AM
Marty RE
New Member RX-7 Technical
0
08-13-15 11:19 AM



Quick Reply: Removing brake caliper bracket



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:34 PM.