Freeskier7791

Not sure if this has been touched on before, and I don't know if anyone else is interested, but I am considering re drilling the pick up points for my LCAs. I noticed when you put more caster into the car, the LCA can bind on the subframe tab since the holes are set so far towards the center of the car. If it is possible I plan on drilling the holes about an inch or 2 closer to the wheels so I increase my track width, can run more camber and also more caster. I will probably trim the tab as well.

Has anyone done this before or thought about it?? This would be somewhat of an alternative to extending the LCAs. I am also going to build roll center adjusters that have a steering arm on them as well.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I guess you have the top mount for the strut already figured out for adjusting it out as well? Drilling the mount hole might be ok but what if you get it wrong? T3 has adjustable LCAs if thats what you need. Also why would you have that much caster?

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

I know a few people here have rolled their own LCA's.
Why are you running so much caster, and how much?

wallyrx7

iTrader: (1)

I did this on my gsl-se track car. I have done a more detailed post on it before but am too lazy to find it right now.

Don't have the exact measurements but I believe I drilled the hole like 1 1/2" out and something like 3/4" down. Keep in mind this makes the bolt come through inside the motor mount brackets. Not an issue, it just makes it a bit fiddly, but this bracket is what's going to determine your hole placement.

Also to consider, you will need longer tie rod ends. Again, I can't recall exactly but I think I ended up getting tie rods from like a nissan b2200 truck or something?

This gave us something like 6+ degrees negative camber, which worked wonders on the track. Really let the front end bite into turns and completely eliminated our understeer. There is some bump steer, but it is manageable once you work it into our driving style.

If this is a street car... I would not recommend doing this.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Not sure how much of an issue it would have, but moving the LCA pivot points without also changing the inner tie rod pivot (which would be quite difficult to do) will introduce more bump steer.

Freeskier7791

Not sure of how much at the moment, but I am using the car for drifting, caster helps with the font contact patch while countersteering, and allowing the steering to "self-center" more easily so its easier to catch the slide after you initiate. It is common for pro level cars to run 7 degs or more

Thanks, I am already maxed out on my camber plates and I might have 2 degs of negative camber, This is not a street car. thanks for the tip on the outer tie rods, I have also looked at getting an adapter so I can run a rod end since I am gonna be making new steering arms as well.

I will definitely check to see how much bumpsteer I will add moving the pick up points. I have already thought about moving the inner tie rod pivot for more steering angle so maybe I will try that, I need to modify it anyway to clear my oil pan.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Subscribing just to see what you can come up with.

Freeskier7791

Redrilled the Passenger side approx 1" outboard and a 1/2" down. I need to do the other side and then mock up the strut again. I will probably need to redrill the holes in the LCA to mount the tension arm and I hope that the swaybary ends still fit...

wallyrx7

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh, I mis-typed what I had done earlier. When I redrilled mine I move them UP on the crossmember (thus into the center of the mount tabs). The reason is, when you lower the car, it obviously changes the angle of the control arms and lowers the roll center. By moving the LCAs up a 1/2" you gain some roll center back. Not saying you should change what you did, just clarifying.

I didn't have to change anything with the stay rods. They fit, but just barely, The nut threaded on just flush to the end of the rod. This is with poly bushings though. That may make a difference.

As for the sway bar. People will probably hurumph at this but I took the ST poly links and cut the top and bottom bushings at an angle. This leans the links over a bit in order to get into the sway bar. I raced with this setup for years and it worked really well.

sommmatt

iTrader: (2)

I don't have the crazy drift angles you do, but a 240SX subframe bolts (with 2 minutes of work) to where your stock subframe does, which uses a rear steering rack. Using 240SX control arms, tie rod ends, knuckles and struts with an FC top hat, T3 FB RX7 Tension rods and a custom steering shaft, you now have 240SX front suspension, with all the wild and wonderful world of aftermarket drift suspension available to you.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

there is some Ford sway bar link that was a stud on one end, and a ball joint on the other, i wanna say it was the crown vic, but possible its F150/E150.

f150, see linke http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s...6_702989_25184

they also had one that was a ball joint on both ends, but it replaced the style with the bolt, so the studs just pointed up (and down)

something like that should work really well, it'll allow the misalignment without binding (too much)

Freeskier7791

That would make sense, I am probably gonna make my own roll center adjusters so I was not super concerned with changing the roll center, I more wanted to give more clearance before the lip on the control arm hits.

I considered this route, but I would also have to redo my motor mounts and worry about clearance since I have a V8. I may go this route later, who knows

Thanks for the link. I will see how the standard endlinks work...

This may end up not working at all but I am glad you guys are interested