Redrilling LCA Pickup Points
Not sure if this has been touched on before, and I don't know if anyone else is interested, but I am considering re drilling the pick up points for my LCAs. I noticed when you put more caster into the car, the LCA can bind on the subframe tab since the holes are set so far towards the center of the car. If it is possible I plan on drilling the holes about an inch or 2 closer to the wheels so I increase my track width, can run more camber and also more caster. I will probably trim the tab as well.
Has anyone done this before or thought about it?? This would be somewhat of an alternative to extending the LCAs. I am also going to build roll center adjusters that have a steering arm on them as well. |
I guess you have the top mount for the strut already figured out for adjusting it out as well? Drilling the mount hole might be ok but what if you get it wrong? T3 has adjustable LCAs if thats what you need. Also why would you have that much caster?
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I know a few people here have rolled their own LCA's.
Why are you running so much caster, and how much? |
Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
(Post 12224615)
Not sure if this has been touched on before, and I don't know if anyone else is interested, but I am considering re drilling the pick up points for my LCAs. I noticed when you put more caster into the car, the LCA can bind on the subframe tab since the holes are set so far towards the center of the car. If it is possible I plan on drilling the holes about an inch or 2 closer to the wheels so I increase my track width, can run more camber and also more caster. I will probably trim the tab as well.
Has anyone done this before or thought about it?? This would be somewhat of an alternative to extending the LCAs. I am also going to build roll center adjusters that have a steering arm on them as well. Don't have the exact measurements but I believe I drilled the hole like 1 1/2" out and something like 3/4" down. Keep in mind this makes the bolt come through inside the motor mount brackets. Not an issue, it just makes it a bit fiddly, but this bracket is what's going to determine your hole placement. Also to consider, you will need longer tie rod ends. Again, I can't recall exactly but I think I ended up getting tie rods from like a nissan b2200 truck or something? This gave us something like 6+ degrees negative camber, which worked wonders on the track. Really let the front end bite into turns and completely eliminated our understeer. There is some bump steer, but it is manageable once you work it into our driving style. If this is a street car... I would not recommend doing this. |
Not sure how much of an issue it would have, but moving the LCA pivot points without also changing the inner tie rod pivot (which would be quite difficult to do) will introduce more bump steer.
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Originally Posted by TheRX7Project
(Post 12224839)
I know a few people here have rolled their own LCA's.
Why are you running so much caster, and how much?
Originally Posted by wallyrx7
(Post 12224870)
I did this on my gsl-se track car. I have done a more detailed post on it before but am too lazy to find it right now.
Don't have the exact measurements but I believe I drilled the hole like 1 1/2" out and something like 3/4" down. Keep in mind this makes the bolt come through inside the motor mount brackets. Not an issue, it just makes it a bit fiddly, but this bracket is what's going to determine your hole placement. Also to consider, you will need longer tie rod ends. Again, I can't recall exactly but I think I ended up getting tie rods from like a nissan b2200 truck or something? This gave us something like 6+ degrees negative camber, which worked wonders on the track. Really let the front end bite into turns and completely eliminated our understeer. There is some bump steer, but it is manageable once you work it into our driving style. If this is a street car... I would not recommend doing this.
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 12224906)
Not sure how much of an issue it would have, but moving the LCA pivot points without also changing the inner tie rod pivot (which would be quite difficult to do) will introduce more bump steer.
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Subscribing just to see what you can come up with.
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d5bea79759.jpg
Redrilled the Passenger side approx 1" outboard and a 1/2" down. I need to do the other side and then mock up the strut again. I will probably need to redrill the holes in the LCA to mount the tension arm and I hope that the swaybary ends still fit... |
Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
(Post 12227302)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d5bea79759.jpg
Redrilled the Passenger side approx 1" outboard and a 1/2" down. I need to do the other side and then mock up the strut again. I will probably need to redrill the holes in the LCA to mount the tension arm and I hope that the swaybary ends still fit... I didn't have to change anything with the stay rods. They fit, but just barely, The nut threaded on just flush to the end of the rod. This is with poly bushings though. That may make a difference. As for the sway bar. People will probably hurumph at this but I took the ST poly links and cut the top and bottom bushings at an angle. This leans the links over a bit in order to get into the sway bar. I raced with this setup for years and it worked really well. |
I don't have the crazy drift angles you do, but a 240SX subframe bolts (with 2 minutes of work) to where your stock subframe does, which uses a rear steering rack. Using 240SX control arms, tie rod ends, knuckles and struts with an FC top hat, T3 FB RX7 Tension rods and a custom steering shaft, you now have 240SX front suspension, with all the wild and wonderful world of aftermarket drift suspension available to you.
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Originally Posted by wallyrx7
(Post 12227520)
As for the sway bar. People will probably hurumph at this but I took the ST poly links and cut the top and bottom bushings at an angle. This leans the links over a bit in order to get into the sway bar. I raced with this setup for years and it worked really well.
f150, see linke http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s...6_702989_25184 they also had one that was a ball joint on both ends, but it replaced the style with the bolt, so the studs just pointed up (and down) something like that should work really well, it'll allow the misalignment without binding (too much) |
Originally Posted by wallyrx7
(Post 12227520)
Ahhh, I mis-typed what I had done earlier. When I redrilled mine I move them UP on the crossmember (thus into the center of the mount tabs). The reason is, when you lower the car, it obviously changes the angle of the control arms and lowers the roll center. By moving the LCAs up a 1/2" you gain some roll center back. Not saying you should change what you did, just clarifying.
I didn't have to change anything with the stay rods. They fit, but just barely, The nut threaded on just flush to the end of the rod. This is with poly bushings though. That may make a difference. As for the sway bar. People will probably hurumph at this but I took the ST poly links and cut the top and bottom bushings at an angle. This leans the links over a bit in order to get into the sway bar. I raced with this setup for years and it worked really well.
Originally Posted by sommmatt
(Post 12227742)
I don't have the crazy drift angles you do, but a 240SX subframe bolts (with 2 minutes of work) to where your stock subframe does, which uses a rear steering rack. Using 240SX control arms, tie rod ends, knuckles and struts with an FC top hat, T3 FB RX7 Tension rods and a custom steering shaft, you now have 240SX front suspension, with all the wild and wonderful world of aftermarket drift suspension available to you.
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 12227759)
there is some Ford sway bar link that was a stud on one end, and a ball joint on the other, i wanna say it was the crown vic, but possible its F150/E150.
f150, see linke http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s...6_702989_25184 they also had one that was a ball joint on both ends, but it replaced the style with the bolt, so the studs just pointed up (and down) something like that should work really well, it'll allow the misalignment without binding (too much) This may end up not working at all but I am glad you guys are interested |
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