Well, y'all will be happy to hear that I just picked up another car. An absolutely cherry 84 GSL with a frozen engine. And I'm not even going to put a piston engine in. It's gonna get a stock 12A. This one is too pretty to tear up, even the bottom of the car is straight (first one I've seen without a bashed in floorpan). But I'm still going to keep the '82 GSL 5.0, so you'll still be able to harrass me about it.

Kerry

 

sounds like a great find.
enjoy the both of them

 

LOL!

Maybe I should consider putting a 5.0 into my GSLSE. The 6-port and FI are going into my Midget.

Otherwise, the sorry beast is going to get scrapped. Good as a beater, but too far gone for a reasonable restoration.

Now to find a Mustang donor car? I can just hear the groans!

Then the Mustang can get the 56Hp 4 banger that came out of the Midget!

 

RotaryMG, Are you playing musical engines?

 

bravo rotary-mg. you sure know how to make a match. your midget sure will fly when you are done with it. and i would love to see a mustang that could bairly put around. a 3500 lbs car with a 50 hp engine would sure be a laugh.

 

Hey Kerry how do you like the 5.0 is it alot quicker than the 12a? is it as fun to drive?

 

Personally, I really like the 302. The 12A was way down on power, I'm not exactly sure, but I think it was losing compression. It's MUCH faster now, but it has a totally different feel. It accelerates like a muscle car... kind of like "let out the clutch, GRUNT through first, shift, GRUNT through second, etc." It doesn't give me that Jackie Stewart kind of "I wanna wind it up and let it sing and zip through traffic" feeling anymore. I guess it's very similar to the difference between a pickup with a gasoline engine and one with a diesel engine. You have more power available, but you have to use it differently. Now, mind you, I'm running a stock 91 5.0 long block with a carb (Fuel injection will go back on shortly). A nicely warmed engine would have a "better" feel. As far as fun to drive? GAWD, YES!! I know it's 200lbs heavier (with the same F/R distribution as an SE), and so, all other things being equal, (they never are) it won't turn with a rotary powered car. It still handles very well, and is well balanced. Thanks for asking, GSL-SE, I love to talk about it.

Kerry

 

!!!
good, 'cause i have tons of questions.
year, 91
4bbl/efi, efi
i still have tons of questions.
if you don't mind, roughly how many hours and how much money went into this swap (engine and car not included)

 

How much money and time? Too much of both! I started in January, working virtually every evening and every other weekend (I get to be a Dad the other weekends) and I got it back on the road in July. I intentionally did not keep track of costs, but I'd guess about $1000, not including the engine/trans. It could be done in a lot less time, but I work very deliberately. I make fewer mistakes that way. I also swapped out all the suspension and brakes from an SE, and put on 205/55R16 wheels/tires. (Don't use this tire up front, 'cause you gotta raise the spring seat up the strut tube... PITA) Biggest headaches are: Radiator, clutch linkage, radiator, AC condensor, radiator, fan, radiator, and wiring. Did I mention the radiator? Buy the radiator from Granny's, I didn't. I wish I would have. You can pretty much trust the info on Granny's site. I didn't find anything there to be innacurate. I bought his mount kit, but opted to make my own, used his to make a jig. Nothing wrong with his, I just wanted a cleaner look. ( Like someone's actually going to notice...)

Kerry

 

wow, i'd've thought wiring would have been repeated a few times.
7 months, if you did it solo than that's pretty good.

 

I was wondering why you guys dont use the small block chevy 350? I know it is slightly larger and heavier, but the knowledge surrounding this motor is huge and speed parts are dirt cheap. That, and nice SBC's can be had with a fresh rebuild and mild warming up for about $1000

 

Do you know what the redline on the 5.0 is.

Cause thats my favorite point of the rotary its super quick reviness and high rpm capabilities.

 

BTW
dont worry rotorheads im not thinking about putting a V8 in.

 

Hi, Rotonomo! Ford / Chevy was a tough decision for me. Chevies are soooo cheap to get HP from, but I went with the Ford for weight. The aftermarket support for the 5.0 is nearly as good as it is for the SBC. I was VERY concerned about weight distribution, and I figured I couldn't afford the extra 100 or so pounds. (I know, if I was that concerned, why didn't I leave the rotary in???) If my main interest was drag racing, I'd have gone with the SBC.

AL, wiring wasn't too bad, I'm blessed with a pretty good understanding of vehicle electrics. Sheet metal work? that's a different story. Mounting the radiator wasn't too bad, but getting it sealed up all the way to the air dam was a lot of work. The AC condensor didn't make it any easier, because I put in a HUGE one.

Kerry

 

I'd like to chime in from a different angle, if you don't mind.

A guy I met on-line installed a 12A into a MG Midget in just one month, before setting off for college. A testimony to how clean these engines are.

I've been performing a ground up rebuild of the whole car, took a many a wrong turn, finally did the smart thing and got a donor RX for the heart transplant. It's been around 4 years, and I'm not on the road yet!!!! Lots of mods along the way.

In that time I've become a daddy twice. So on the weekends, I'm lucky to get some time in while the youngest naps.

My 4 yr old daughter is turning wrenches with me now. With lots of supervision. I injury myself enough for the two of us!

Unless you are real familiar with the engine and its hook ups, don't buy a bare block and try to figure out the rest. A running donor is by far the cheapest and fastest route to a successful transplant. And don't try to do every mod at the same time. Having the car on the road just keeps the enjoyment up. When you've had your baby on blocks from months to years, it could be very discouraging.

 

302 redlines at 6 but gets into the yellow around 4600 or so... Ford and Chevy are both close when it comes to scraping HP out of them... I like the 302 better cuz mine is rollarized, good for many more miles than a stock SBC... Oh yeah BTW got myself a new car, 88 GT with a little mods (exaust, cam, chip, MAF, and a drag suspension...)

 

I'll second that!

I have done a similar project as Rotary-MG, 13B in a MG Midget.
Mine has taken 4+ years, and It looks like it will take a little longer
I had the car running for the past year and there wasn't much that could out run it. Then 2 weeks ago I blew an apex seal in the front rotor doing of all things, putting the car on the trailer to go home (raced it all weekend near Pittsburg, PA and took home the "Fastest Time of the Day" at the auto-x)

oh well, back up on the blocks she goes....

BTW - speeking of motor swaps, I have a '63 Chevy Stepside pickup that got a IFS and 9" rear from a Ford Thunderbird and will be powered by a Ford 460 that has been "worked"
Yet another project to keep me poor, but out of trouble.

 

i'd have to say that a 302 would be better in a daily driven 7 mainly b/c it's
cheaper
lighter
more fuel effecient
slight more reliable.

GSL-SE, i love my mr2's reviness compared to a mustang, but a 302 rx-7 should be atleast 600lbs less than a stang, plus you don't have the ridiculously tall gearing.

 

maybe your right

 

Ill deny on the Dorf motor being more reliable. The world is powered by a small block chevy.

 

Are you a Chevy Fan ?????? It's hard to tell but I'm going to guess, yes.

The world is powered by a small block Chevy? Are you sure? See a bunch of Blue Ovals here in Ft,. Worth.

Not to worry though I hold the middle ground with my 4.6 liter Expedition (Ford) and my 454 Powered Corvette (Chevy), got a Pontiac with a six (Buick/Olds/Pontiac), and a Mazda with a couple of spinning Triangles!

I like them all!

 

I'm not aware of any reliablity differences between Ford & Chevy, except that Ford can't seem to make a reliable electrical connection. Fuel economy is dependent on gearing, engine calibration, and driving style. All the automakers have their calibrations as close to perfect as it gets, so there should be no real difference... unless you have an engine with atrocious thermal efficiency. (like a rotary). Don't flame me, it's true. That's the price you pay for the excellent power to weight ratio.

Kerry