1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Recent SA Buy

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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
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Recent SA Buy

Picked up a 79 GS Daytona blue SA this summer. Typical story - sat since the 90's not started since etc... 96K miles a little rust etc,...
Anyway, I finally got some time to devote to trying to get it started.
PO says it ran when parked and I really do think it did.
However when I try to crank it with a fresh battery, it seems to crank really slow as compared to my SE's and other 12A's I've had in the past.
I owned a '79 back in '83 but not since so electronics on these is basically new to me.
Also the voltage gauge does not work when you turn on the key. Otherwise everything seems to be in order.
Cap, rotor, plugs, wires all new. Drained and replaced gas in the tank also.
I just think it should be spinning at a higher rate.
Any suggestions?
Also I would like to do the dizzy upgrade at some point.
I'd like to get this running so I can put it into storage for the winter.
Car now runs 15" epsilons mesh and looks pretty good
Attached Thumbnails Recent SA Buy-mazda-august-148.jpg   Recent SA Buy-mazda-august-146.jpg  
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 07:36 PM
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Could it be that the started just needs a rebuild? Do you have another you can swap in and try? I've always liked these blue ones.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 09:03 PM
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The Choke and Check Relay is a place to start if the tach is not displaying volts with key on, engine off (after checking all the fuses).
The 79's had a separate electromechanical voltage regulator (big gold box on the drivers fender just in front of the firewall) that could also be a contributor.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
The Choke and Check Relay is a place to start if the tach is not displaying volts with key on, engine off (after checking all the fuses).
The 79's had a separate electromechanical voltage regulator (big gold box on the drivers fender just in front of the firewall) that could also be a contributor.
Thanks. Which of these relays would that refer to? Also how to check the large box (voltage regulator)? Also what are the 2 blue plugs that are not connected to anything (in front of the relays)?
Attached Thumbnails Recent SA Buy-sa-engine-bay-003.jpg  

Last edited by wahootee; Oct 13, 2015 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Could it be that the started just needs a rebuild? Do you have another you can swap in and try? I've always liked these blue ones.
If its not SA specific I have lots of starters to swap in. So I can try that.

Here are pics of the engine bay and the VIN.
Couple questions for anyone who cares to chime in.
Is the VIN a early production car? It has the 5 speed.
Second, why do I not have the solenoid for the Orange connector? Is that a CA spec item?
Attached Thumbnails Recent SA Buy-sa-engine-bay-001.jpg   Recent SA Buy-sa-engine-bay-004.jpg   Recent SA Buy-sa-engine-bay-006.jpg   Recent SA Buy-sa-engine-bay-002.jpg  
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:12 AM
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Those harnesses aren't connected to anything. Was the same thing in my car. You can double check the Haynes manual.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by wahootee
If its not SA specific I have lots of starters to swap in. So I can try that.

Here are pics of the engine bay and the VIN.
Couple questions for anyone who cares to chime in.
Is the VIN a early production car? It has the 5 speed.
Second, why do I not have the solenoid for the Orange connector? Is that a CA spec item?
I thought build date was on the inside of the door?

Doesn't look early build as from what I can from the pictures, you don't have the hood prop rod on the passenger side which is one of the easy things to look out for.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 08:36 AM
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The orange connector is for the vacuum solenoid valve. Its for the vacuum advance on the distributor. There should be one in place.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 09:36 AM
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the 55xxxx vin is most of the way through the 79 model year., which is fine. its not an early car, but its still neat.

out of all those relays, the big box with the mitsubishi symbol is the alternator controller, and then the choke and check relay i think is the one thats in the back. it will say choke or something like that on it.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by hectik1
I thought build date was on the inside of the door?

Doesn't look early build as from what I can from the pictures, you don't have the hood prop rod on the passenger side which is one of the easy things to look out for.
Yeah, I forgot about that for a moment thinking it had something to do with the VIN on SA's.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
The orange connector is for the vacuum solenoid valve. Its for the vacuum advance on the distributor. There should be one in place.
I just parted out a 80 LS, would the 80 have had the same solenoid that I can use or it is 79 only? I'll have to dig out the rats nest I just put away from the part out if it will work.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 01:07 PM
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The 80 will have it as well. I'll toss up a pic of my 80 and my customer's 80 LS..
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 01:14 PM
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Here's a pic of my customer's LS:

Name:  20151007_124256.jpg
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Here's a pic of my 80 GS:

Name:  20151014_140953.jpg
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Size:  367.1 KB
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
Here's a pic of my customer's LS:



Here's a pic of my 80 GS:

Thanks. looks like the gold LS I just parted. Which, if you need any 80 parts I pretty much stripped it.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
The 80 will have it as well. I'll toss up a pic of my 80 and my customer's 80 LS..
Ok, I pulled out the 80 LS rats nest and was going to swap the orange solenoid onto the 79. I went to look at the 79 and it has a entirely different hardlines compared to not only your pics but also my 80 rats nest.
There is not a provision for the vacuum lines etc.
I have attached pics of the 2 for comparison.
My build date was 3/79
from the patina on the rats nest where the solenoid is supposed to be, it almost appears that one was never installed from the factory . Is this a possibility since the hardlines on the 79 rats nest are not there?
I also ordered a new voltage regulator from Rock Auto, they had them on closeout for like $8.
Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails Recent SA Buy-solnoid-002.jpg   Recent SA Buy-solnoid-003.jpg  
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by wahootee
My build date was 3/79
from the patina on the rats nest where the solenoid is supposed to be, it almost appears that one was never installed from the factory . Is this a possibility since the hardlines on the 79 rats nest are not there?
I also ordered a new voltage regulator from Rock Auto, they had them on closeout for like $8.
Thanks.
I have (3) late build 79's and they all look the same as yours. No solenoid on that end and an unused orange connector. Those voltage regulators are common to a few different vehicles of the period. A Ford Courrier being one if I recall.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 03:54 AM
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Replace the battery cables - make sure the contact points (2 for the Ground) are clean and weather protected.
Cables rot out and can lose a LOT of electrical efficiency. Have heard stories where a host of weird electrical stuff goes away with new cables.
For $15-ish (but usually free) an auto electrical shop will bench test your starter to be sure its up to snuff. Brainless to remove (but note where wires attach - camera is your friend)

Stu Aull
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 10:42 AM
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On a 79, the orange solenoid valve is for the Vacuum Control Valve, which was only installed on California-spec cars w/ manual tansmission. Part of the Cali-specific emissions system.

You're going to want to download the 79 wiring diagram & the FSM; very useful for IDing model- and -state-build variations, & understanding electrical issues.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 03:24 PM
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Thanks for all the helpful ideas. SA's just seem to take a little more attention than my SE's. Which is no big deal, it's just different , not bad. Unique might be a good word for these models.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 04:37 AM
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They are unique but they are also enjoyable. The SA always seems to command more attention than the FB in public and they seem to always strike a chord with former owners. When new, they were absolutely fantastic and still remain so today. They, like all of the first generation series are a timeless design.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
They, like all of the first generation series are a timeless design.
actually its the way they are dated which is the neat part. the SA is like disco in the future, the FB is like 1981. this is why the FB was cooler when it came out, but the SA is cooler now

if you look at the SA, you can see where Mazda was looking to Italy for inspiration
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wahootee
Thanks for all the helpful ideas. SA's just seem to take a little more attention than my SE's. Which is no big deal, it's just different , not bad. Unique might be a good word for these models.
now that is the FIRST time I have ever heard that comment?! SAs (opinion) seem so blindingly tinker-toy simple compared to the cross-over world of 'experimental' electronics of the later -SE cars...
of course, then there is the whole concept of carburation.


Stu Aull
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 02:33 PM
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Damn Dave, you live in Seven Heaven.

That blue one makes me want an SA more than ever, they are the ultimate 1st gen statement.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 06:18 PM
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Congratulations on your addition! I'd love to see some pics of it on those Epsilons.

What's funny is that when I got my SA I was disappointed it wasn't an FB. I still like the FB's but the SA's definitely get more attention from people who know 7's, and are definitely more sought after than non-SE FBs. Harder to find parts for... but that's part of the fun of it.
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