I'm pretty sure it's from a leaky dowel pin. I guess an engine rebuild is needed? I may just go with a 13b transplant since my carb rebuild didn't go to well.

 

Where in the front is it leaking? Top, bottom, side? We can't really help you out if you don't give us enough to go on here bud. Maybe post a pic of the leak?

 

The leak pools oil at the top front drivers side of the engine. It was a small leak about 1000 miles ago but now it leaves quite a puddle of oil on the ground. I'm pretty sure it's a dowel pin leak. I may try the "quick fix" I read about earlier but I don't have high hopes given the severity of the leak.

 

Nothing external will fix it. Whatever you do, do not drill into the housing. Search for TimWilbers post and you will find he had the same issue I believe. He documented his rebuild and it's very informative.

 

Thanks KC. I read Tim Wilber's saga. Not sure if I've got the time for all this. I may end up just parting out the car at this point...

 

Don't part it out. Just do a swap. You can find a decent 13b or 12a for a few hundreds bucks. You could do it in a weekend.

 

I like the sound of a 13b swap but how does one find an engine in God shape for a few hundred bucks??

 

Look for part out of a running car. I am my sure I your area but around my area I see some decent engines going for around $600. They are not a fresh rebuild, but it's a cheaper solution than a rebuild. At the end of the day it's up to what you want to do. Buy a used engine or for twice as much rebuild yours assuming you don't need housings. If you do you could probably source 12a housings for around $200 each. I got lucky and got mine for $150 each. Good luck.

 

FWIW I had a pretty good dowel leak (betw front rotor housing and front iron) on my 80 SA original engine (85K mi at the time). I used a Stop-Leak product (since rebuild was the only other option...) and, I'll be damned if it didn't knock the leak w-a-y down! That was 10,000 miles ago and still just weeps a bit. Nothing to lose here...
??
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

I also had good results with STP Stop Oil Leak. Nice to see someone else here will try cheap gerry rigged solutions.

I wish I was the type that could pull out and rebuild the engine at the first sign of trouble. Do everything perfect. Wax my car once a month. Use all original genuine mazda parts. Take out the beehive oil cooler. All that good guy stuff.

 

The beehive is a fine oil cooler.

 

The pin hole sized jets on the e-shaft only see a little weep of oil now too.


I don't care for quick fixes, but to each his own.

 

agreed. But the OP seems to have hit a wall. I did mine 5 yrs ago. Still running fine...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

I guess I'll give the stp stuff a try. It looks like I need an engine rebuild anyway so why not at least try it I guess.

 

I actually rebuilt the 12a twice. The first time I rushed the assembly. I was weeping oil at idle between the front iron and front rotor housing. I estimated it would blow out a quart every 20 miles. The second rebuild was immediate and took far less time, 4 weeks just in the evenings. This included removing and reinstalling the engine. The cause of the leak: I split the dowel pin O-ring when I rushed the assembly.

The engine runs great. Nothing leaks anywhere. Only a slight vibration at 6000-6500 RPM. Well, some of the parts are 32 years old with 160k miles. Its my everyday driver when the roads are dry and free of salt.

I asked lots of questions. Got lots of great advise. This was my first experience with a rotary. Its not really that hard. Just lots and lots of steps.

(Most of my relevant posts/question/answers are titled 12a Rebuild. Search TimWilbers)

Good luck.