Use a whole counter top when doing the teardown, and label everything. For bolts, use the bottom of a cardboard box, draw a pic of where they are coming from, poke holes with a screwdriver and drop them in. makes things easy when you are going to re-assemble a week or so later when you thought you'd remember. Big warning on the waterpump, put the shim back where it came from!

 

Use a gasket for the front cover rather than silicone so the oil pan still lines up perfectly.

 

84 i figure you a good person to ask any special tools needed. or ones most people mite not have. i know ill have to buy a big socket for the the fly wheel. any thing else.

 

There's another thread running in this section right now, on the subject of special tools:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/tools-773094/

 

10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 8mm, 19mm, flywheel socket, flywheel holder, engine stand or something to hold the motor when building it, hammer rubber would be the best, anything else im missing here guys? clutch alignment tool

 

Micrometer set, snap gauges, and dial gauge with base for checking parts & setting end-play, feeler guages, dremel & fine emory paper for cutting side seals, true straightedge for checking iron wear, partitioned boxes or containers for seals...

 

[QUOTE=DivinDriver;8407647]I found this book to be incredibly valuable for my first rebuild, even though I was not doing anything in the way of mods:

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/ho...20your%20rx-7/

..............Oh man!! i've been looking for this book for a long time. Im in zion now. Literally i am staying overtime at work to execute the printer (and its friday Great link. thank

and good luck w/ first rebuild

 

23mm open end
torque wrench
3ft cheater bar

an understanding wife = keep your own towel in the bathroom

 

You're welcome, but I can't take credit for it - - it's one of Sgt Fox's resources; I found it thru the FAQ.

Tons of great stuff in there, Sarge.

 

Thanks everyone. I know I have the tool part covered, so Im good there. I plan to use the DVD and the manual incorporating these tips when it comes to performing the tasks, so I should get a decent rebuild out of it.

I got my Racing Beat templates in today, and Ive gotten at least one box a day for the past week with other parts for the engine install

~T.J.

 

Cant believe I needed a video for that, haha. Thanks though. I got it now

Anyone else have tips? I should be going to get my rebuild kit soon, and I have all next month as paid vacation to tinker with the engine, haha.

Oh, how do you paint your plates? Just mask off both rotor surfaces so you can paint the edges? Does anyone just "assemble" them with bad housings and paint them that way? What works better?

~T.J.

 

Just quoting this from the thread I have going in the general rotary forum so its all in one place when I go looking later.

~T.J.

 

54 mm socket in 3/4" drive along with corresponding breaker bar (remove rear journal nut)

if you really want to do it right you will need a dial guage indicator w/mag base that measures in thousandths as well as an external mic set to measure bearing walk for the rotor as well as to calculate the apex seal width prior to fitting.

kenn

 

I don't use lube except for something to keep the seals in place on the rotors... after assembly all-up I pour a bunch of motor oil into the ports and spark plug holes... makes a mess but it's better than getting lube on the parts of the housings where I want sealant.

Oh yeah - I don't use coolant seals, I use Right Stuff and 18 gauge electrical wire. I'm on the third engine I have assembled this way, first one with FC style housings, and zero problems. The only problem is trying to disassemble it afterwards!

 

Interesting ideas, thanks.

I tore my engine down the other day, and Im really impressed with the condition of everything. It looks NICE! No step wear on the plates at all, and virtually NO flaking of the chrome at all on one housing, and the other is flake free completely. Its gonna be a nice rebuild, assuming I dont mess something up in the assembly or porting, haha. Gonna practice on some old stuff for sure.

~T.J.

 

Anyone have a little advice for this? Thanks!

~T.J.

 

Top...

~T.J.

 

Got behind schedule on this, but still plan to do this soon. Got the money set aside for the rebuild kit. Any "last minute" tips?

~T.J.

 

Sure, read this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=engine

It's the basis I used for my engine build along with the FSM and Heynes, and answers your question about assembly lube

Jon

 

Yeah I just painted mine individually after masking them off. I used posterboard for the large areas, and finished up the edges with masking tape then went nuts on them.

Remember to paint in many thin, even coats. Don't worry if you can still see more than half the metal on your first pass, give it 15min and do another pass. I masked all of them first, and painted them one at a time. By the time I finished my last housing, it was time to go back to the first one for the next coat. I probably did like eight or nine very thin coats and they came out well.

Jon

 

Good link, thanks Jon. I probably will be referring to multiple sources during this build Im sure.

~T.J.