Well i'mm getting ready to yank my sp 12a out to dissasemble it. I watched atkins rotary rebuild video and decided i could handle the rebuild process.. I can't wait to find out what that clanking noise is.. it was just rebuilt 20k ago supposedly. but obviously most of the hard parts weren't replaced. I think i will need a new front or rear stationary gear and maybe the e-shaft... I will see once i get it broken down..

Should i replace the oil control rings?? or can i reuse the ones there. I am planning on buying the atkins rebuild kit a, for my 12a. And any other parts that seem to be trash. I will go with a couple upgrade parts like the hardened gears maybe a higher flow oil pump

I wan't to keep it as reliable as possible and try to make it more failure proof. I was told that it should be making around 180-200 hp with the holley 465 street port and full race exhaust. What else can i do to squeeze a few more horses from it?

 

Rebuilds arent that tuff. Do it once, get it started and you'll be part of the Rotary Rebuild Family.....lol. As far as squeezing more horses....your going to open her up, why not just port it out? Good luck!

 

where in MD are you located?

 

200 is about the limit for 12A unless you go NOS, forced induction, P-port, or bridge. With a 4 bbl carb, you could go 1/2 bridge and gain 15 - 30 according to the porting of course. I don't recomend it for a street car, though. The power comes on too late. ( power band too high ).

Port with turbo in mind. Mild = without raising the opening side of the exaust port too high or porting any material on the water seal side of the intake ports. Then go turbo. 300+ motor HP is possible with a turbo and the car remains streetable.

 

Annapolis area.

It is already street ported, But i want more.. and i feel a larger port will effect the streetability of the 12a, I am still entertaining the possibility of F.I. and a turbo, but that won't be until next fall at the earliest.. and there is still the thought of a v8. But for now a rebuild with some new components. after I do some real testing with the rebuild I'll make a decision where to go from there.

What hard parts should be scrutinized for replacement? like I said it's probably broke a stationary gear tooth and hardened gears is a definate. What parts can i change to make it last long with a lot of hard driving..

I will be running auto-x in the spring and hopefully driving on the street during weekends.

 

I converted the atkins tape to mpeg4 and watched it on my laptop as I did the rebuild. made things a whole lot easier.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=rebuild

 

I picked up a s4 turbo manifold from Tofu a bit ago and was planning on doing a turbo/megasquirt install. I still have it and may shoot for this.. How many horses on a rebuilt s4 or s5 turbo could i expect? I want something that is very streetable/track worthy.. I don't want the boost to kick in at 8k, I'm thinking full spool at 4k??

can i still get to my 250-300 hp goal with full boost at 4k? anyone with knowledge kick me some info..

 

for parts that you are gonna need to replace:
-ALL soft seals (including water and oil seals)
-oil control rings (not always necessary...but probly a must if you are gonna autoX
-apex seals & springs
-front and rear main seals (should come with a soft seal kit)
-side seals
-corner seals and springs (upgrade to the 3rd gen ones)
-stationary gears (if yours are toast like you think they are...id just go with the hardened ones)

 

Apex seals should be ok with only 20k on them.. I was wondering about the solid corner seals though.. and oil control rings I was planning on replacing.. I have 2 12a blocks, 1 in each car. I hope between the two i can find a good set of irons and a good e-shaft.. I hope to still use the street ported housings but we'll see what condition there in..