to rebuild or buy new??
to rebuild or buy new??
My clutch jacked the other day and I though it was the slave cylinder. Replaced that and still no go. So I pulled out the master cylinder becasue it was leaking on drivers side of the firewall. So anyway, I pulled the damn thing out and examined the seals. Theres one that I wasn't sure was part of a seal or not.
Heres a pic after it was all cleaned up:
That other notch, is there supposed to be a seal there or not? If so, the one that was there was rotted to all hell!
Also, I'm not sure if I should rebuild it or not. it has lots of bad gashes on it and doesn't slide very well in the tube. Should I bother rebuilding, or just buy a new one for $70?
Heres a pic after it was all cleaned up:
That other notch, is there supposed to be a seal there or not? If so, the one that was there was rotted to all hell!
Also, I'm not sure if I should rebuild it or not. it has lots of bad gashes on it and doesn't slide very well in the tube. Should I bother rebuilding, or just buy a new one for $70?
New, VB, $49 this month, I think. Be sure you order the correct part #, however, since their catalog lists one for 84/85 SE's that is definitely the wrong part - mounts are bolts instead of studs and at a diagonal to the reservoir, at that. No way that things going to mount in my SE.
The piston that you show should have a rubber 'cup' at the right side as a oil seal to the interior compartment. There is a pushrod that's mounted to the clutch pedal that goes in that end, right? The piston on the left side of your picture also has a rubber seal that is shaped to push fluid in one direction, and allow it to bypass in the other - this is what draws fluid from the reservoir into the piston area to allow airbubbles to escape and to compensate for any leaks at the slave cylinder.
For the money - full replacement is a much better option. If the aluminum piston is scraped, it may not be a real problem - look down the bore of the Master Cylinder to see if the steel cylinder is damaged - if in doubt, replace it will a complete MC. If it looks okay, you can save about $30 by buying just the rebuild kit.
I have a new VB Clutch MC and SC in my garage right now waiting to be installed (maybe tonight...). Good luck,
The piston that you show should have a rubber 'cup' at the right side as a oil seal to the interior compartment. There is a pushrod that's mounted to the clutch pedal that goes in that end, right? The piston on the left side of your picture also has a rubber seal that is shaped to push fluid in one direction, and allow it to bypass in the other - this is what draws fluid from the reservoir into the piston area to allow airbubbles to escape and to compensate for any leaks at the slave cylinder.
For the money - full replacement is a much better option. If the aluminum piston is scraped, it may not be a real problem - look down the bore of the Master Cylinder to see if the steel cylinder is damaged - if in doubt, replace it will a complete MC. If it looks okay, you can save about $30 by buying just the rebuild kit.
I have a new VB Clutch MC and SC in my garage right now waiting to be installed (maybe tonight...). Good luck,
LOL, sorry I'm gonna order one from checkers and i want it here tomorrow so I can install it and go home this weekend!!
I think I'm just gonna order a new one and not the rebuild kit. I don't have a VB (although I ordered one a few weeks ago... hmmm).
I think I'm just gonna order a new one and not the rebuild kit. I don't have a VB (although I ordered one a few weeks ago... hmmm).
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
If you're still looking for more opinions:
BUY THE NEW ONE!
www.victoriabritish.com
I'll give you the part numbers if you don't have the catalogue:
Master Cyl for an '85 12a (GSL) 63-112
Cost: 49.95USD
Jon
BUY THE NEW ONE!
www.victoriabritish.com
I'll give you the part numbers if you don't have the catalogue:
Master Cyl for an '85 12a (GSL) 63-112
Cost: 49.95USD
Jon
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 320
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From: warner robins, Georgia
does anyone else thing that taking off and reinstalling the salve is a bitch....master took me 10 minutes...slave took me 3 hours...6 socket extensions and me standin on the engine to get the right angle whicl also holdin the damnthing in place
Putting the slave on is easy. Take a scrap of a paper towel, put it over the head of the bolt, then shove it into your socket so it won't go anywhere and use a 24" extension.
Or, you could just lay under the car, reach up around the transmission with both hands, put it in place, and thread the bolts.
Of course, without the rat's nest, you really don't need to do either.
Or, you could just lay under the car, reach up around the transmission with both hands, put it in place, and thread the bolts.
Of course, without the rat's nest, you really don't need to do either.
The behive oil cooler also makes a considerable difference in the ease of dealing with the slave. I have the front mount on my '82 which I am very thankful for for many reasons. My buddy Erick1120 has the behive on his 84 and said it was a bitch to work around to get to the slave.
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