350xfire

iTrader: (1)

I'm having issues getting my rear sway bar to line up... Any trick to this?
Thanks

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Not really, you don't have it upside down or reversed somehow do you?

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

I don't think so... The curved part is going right below the differential... I see no other way it can go. I'll post a pic. I tried to reverse but it didn't seem right... The curved part would have stuck over the differential around the middle. The passenger side has a curved end on it vs. the driver side end link section...

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Pics[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

So you have on end connected and fully tightened right?

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Nope, everything is loose until I can fit it on

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

So what is not fitting together, the other side of the bar?

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Yes, sorry...

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

I read on a post that removing the rear sway bar with stock front sway bar is a good thing. Is this true?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

If you are autocrossing, it can keep the rear end planted a bit better on tight maneuvers. On high speed circuits it will not help, in fact it may hurt on long sweeper turns.

Its a tuning choice really. Depends on your driving style as well.

LongDuck

So, did you get it? Most of the time the alignment issue is with trying to bolt up one side and tightening it down then the other side won't go into position. If still having difficulty you might try jacking the loose side up a bit until you can get the rod and nut threaded - then it can be tightened properly.

Also, you were certain the bar was straight before you installed it, right? I run a heavy 1-18" front bar and an adjustable rear bar which is set to be pretty soft at the rear. I only drive on the street, but like the nice flat cornering behavior. Remember that the bar affects handling at the OTHER end of the car from where it's mounted. Good luck,

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Not, yet... The thought of it being bent crossed my mind but it looked straight. I did notice that one of the old end links was bent when I took it off.

Anyone know the distance from end to end so I can measure it out?
Thanks

LongDuck

Well, the distance of the end-links is immaterial as long as they're both the same length. Therefore, remove the one from the other side and ensure both links are approximately the same length. If so, it's a matter of torqueing them down to the same level. If the spacer between the bushings is NOT the same length as well - this could be part of your problem.

Have another look, and good luck,

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Finally got it. I ended up putting both springs and shocks on and jacked up the rear end from the differential evenly and finally fell into place.
Thanks

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and do you tighten the nuts until about .4" of threads are showing like the stock ones or is it less since the poly bushings are harder?
Thanks

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

we tested this on an E30, which basically acts like it has a solid rear axle, and the lap times with and without the rear bar are about the same.

the drivers preferred with bar or without bar depending on the track though

so there isn't a right answer, it is whatever the driver likes.

LongDuck

To answer your bar link question - I would just get them tight enough to lightly compress the polymer bushings. Any more than that is unnecessary and it's not about how much thread length is exposed - it's getting the links tight enough to be effective across the bar.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

+1 on what Duck says. Its all about making sure the slop is gone, after that tighter
is not better.