Rear sway bar on SA
I'm having issues getting my rear sway bar to line up... Any trick to this?
Thanks |
Not really, you don't have it upside down or reversed somehow do you?
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
(Post 11798713)
Not really, you don't have it upside down or reversed somehow do you?
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So you have on end connected and fully tightened right?
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
(Post 11798809)
So you have on end connected and fully tightened right?
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Originally Posted by 350xfire
(Post 11798870)
Nope, everything is loose until I can fit it on
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
(Post 11798884)
So what is not fitting together, the other side of the bar?
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I read on a post that removing the rear sway bar with stock front sway bar is a good thing. Is this true?
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If you are autocrossing, it can keep the rear end planted a bit better on tight maneuvers. On high speed circuits it will not help, in fact it may hurt on long sweeper turns.
Its a tuning choice really. Depends on your driving style as well. |
So, did you get it? Most of the time the alignment issue is with trying to bolt up one side and tightening it down then the other side won't go into position. If still having difficulty you might try jacking the loose side up a bit until you can get the rod and nut threaded - then it can be tightened properly.
Also, you were certain the bar was straight before you installed it, right? I run a heavy 1-18" front bar and an adjustable rear bar which is set to be pretty soft at the rear. I only drive on the street, but like the nice flat cornering behavior. Remember that the bar affects handling at the OTHER end of the car from where it's mounted. Good luck, |
Originally Posted by LongDuck
(Post 11800820)
So, did you get it? Most of the time the alignment issue is with trying to bolt up one side and tightening it down then the other side won't go into position. If still having difficulty you might try jacking the loose side up a bit until you can get the rod and nut threaded - then it can be tightened properly.
Also, you were certain the bar was straight before you installed it, right? I run a heavy 1-18" front bar and an adjustable rear bar which is set to be pretty soft at the rear. I only drive on the street, but like the nice flat cornering behavior. Remember that the bar affects handling at the OTHER end of the car from where it's mounted. Good luck, Anyone know the distance from end to end so I can measure it out? Thanks |
Well, the distance of the end-links is immaterial as long as they're both the same length. Therefore, remove the one from the other side and ensure both links are approximately the same length. If so, it's a matter of torqueing them down to the same level. If the spacer between the bushings is NOT the same length as well - this could be part of your problem.
Have another look, and good luck, |
Finally got it. I ended up putting both springs and shocks on and jacked up the rear end from the differential evenly and finally fell into place.
Thanks |
Oh, and do you tighten the nuts until about .4" of threads are showing like the stock ones or is it less since the poly bushings are harder?
Thanks |
Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
(Post 11799753)
Its a tuning choice really. Depends on your driving style as well.
the drivers preferred with bar or without bar depending on the track though so there isn't a right answer, it is whatever the driver likes. |
To answer your bar link question - I would just get them tight enough to lightly compress the polymer bushings. Any more than that is unnecessary and it's not about how much thread length is exposed - it's getting the links tight enough to be effective across the bar.
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Originally Posted by 350xfire
(Post 11801842)
Oh, and do you tighten the nuts until about .4" of threads are showing like the stock ones or is it less since the poly bushings are harder?
Thanks is not better. |
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