Rear suspension questions
06-02-03, 05:09 PM
#1
spoon!
Thread Starter
Rear suspension questions
Hiya, just had a couple thoughts when swapping rear ends over the weekend.
Right now, I've got a completely stock suspension setup on my car, with the GSL LSD and discs. I can't say how it drives yet, as I've a bit of work to do before it *does* drive. So that's not my question.
My question is first, I've heard all sorts of things about getting stiffer bushings in the rear end; that it will cause more binding and all sorts of things. I'm wanting to know what's up with that, as all of the bushings on the car are pretty well worn, and I'd like to replace them with poly ones as long as I'm replacing them.
Secondly, it was seeming to me that the biggest obstacle to having a bigger rear wheel/tire package is the upper suspension link. Am I wrong here, and if I'm not, moving to a tri-link rear suspension would let me run a little bit more rubber, wouldn't it? I want to move up to 245/45/16s out back, and I really don't want to have tires sticking out from the fenders, or fender flares.
And finally, with the tri-link, is it a necessicity to move to a panhard bar too instead of the watts link? Also, what are the downsides of doing so; will it be durable enough for a highish powered street car?
That's it for now. Thanks for reading.
Right now, I've got a completely stock suspension setup on my car, with the GSL LSD and discs. I can't say how it drives yet, as I've a bit of work to do before it *does* drive. So that's not my question.
My question is first, I've heard all sorts of things about getting stiffer bushings in the rear end; that it will cause more binding and all sorts of things. I'm wanting to know what's up with that, as all of the bushings on the car are pretty well worn, and I'd like to replace them with poly ones as long as I'm replacing them.
Secondly, it was seeming to me that the biggest obstacle to having a bigger rear wheel/tire package is the upper suspension link. Am I wrong here, and if I'm not, moving to a tri-link rear suspension would let me run a little bit more rubber, wouldn't it? I want to move up to 245/45/16s out back, and I really don't want to have tires sticking out from the fenders, or fender flares.
And finally, with the tri-link, is it a necessicity to move to a panhard bar too instead of the watts link? Also, what are the downsides of doing so; will it be durable enough for a highish powered street car?
That's it for now. Thanks for reading.
06-02-03, 05:21 PM
#2
The tri-link setup is the ultimate setup for the 1st gen. Assume you are looking at the G-Force products. The factory rear suspension has many design errors in it that bind worse and worse the more the suspension is pushed down. Softer bushings help deflect these problems but create others. Stiffer bushings only add to the binding effects. The problems lie within the way the watts linkeage moves in relation to the upper arm mounting geometry. One wants to move one way and the other wants to move the other way but they both don't like to agree with each other. With the tri-link, you can completely remove the upper bars unless you are racing in a class that does not allow this. In this instance you are using such a soft bushing that they don't even function usably anymore.
You would definitely want the panhard bar to match. The problem with the factory watts linkage is that it is not centered or of even length. They work well when symmetrical but not very well the way Mazda designed it. The trilink package will set you back a good amount of change but the results should be spectacular.
You would definitely want the panhard bar to match. The problem with the factory watts linkage is that it is not centered or of even length. They work well when symmetrical but not very well the way Mazda designed it. The trilink package will set you back a good amount of change but the results should be spectacular.
06-02-03, 05:28 PM
#3
spoon!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by rotarygod
The tri-link setup is the ultimate setup for the 1st gen. Assume you are looking at the G-Force products. The factory rear suspension has many design errors in it that bind worse and worse the more the suspension is pushed down. Softer bushings help deflect these problems but create others. Stiffer bushings only add to the binding effects. The problems lie within the way the watts linkeage moves in relation to the upper arm mounting geometry. One wants to move one way and the other wants to move the other way but they both don't like to agree with each other. With the tri-link, you can completely remove the upper bars unless you are racing in a class that does not allow this. In this instance you are using such a soft bushing that they don't even function usably anymore.
You would definitely want the panhard bar to match. The problem with the factory watts linkage is that it is not centered or of even length. They work well when symmetrical but not very well the way Mazda designed it. The trilink package will set you back a good amount of change but the results should be spectacular.
The tri-link setup is the ultimate setup for the 1st gen. Assume you are looking at the G-Force products. The factory rear suspension has many design errors in it that bind worse and worse the more the suspension is pushed down. Softer bushings help deflect these problems but create others. Stiffer bushings only add to the binding effects. The problems lie within the way the watts linkeage moves in relation to the upper arm mounting geometry. One wants to move one way and the other wants to move the other way but they both don't like to agree with each other. With the tri-link, you can completely remove the upper bars unless you are racing in a class that does not allow this. In this instance you are using such a soft bushing that they don't even function usably anymore.
You would definitely want the panhard bar to match. The problem with the factory watts linkage is that it is not centered or of even length. They work well when symmetrical but not very well the way Mazda designed it. The trilink package will set you back a good amount of change but the results should be spectacular.
... then again, maybe I should just wait and save my pennies for the real kit. Dunno.
06-03-03, 12:45 AM
#5
spoon!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Kill No Cone
Kenku,
Jim at G-Force has 20 years and a national championship with first gens. Before you look at a beefer system, I think you should call Jim at G-Force. His systems are pretty damn beefy, but still light.
Kenku,
Jim at G-Force has 20 years and a national championship with first gens. Before you look at a beefer system, I think you should call Jim at G-Force. His systems are pretty damn beefy, but still light.
Which, really, *should* tell me I should stick with the stock setup for a while until I can afford to do it right but I'm impatient!
06-03-03, 01:09 AM
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