REVHED

Does anyone know which rear bushes can or should be changed to urethane as I've read that changing them all will result in binding? I'm refering to the trailing-arms and watts-linkage.

On a side, I got the front bushing swap underway by swapping the idler-arm bushing and what a bitch it was to remove the arm from the centre-link! I had no luck braking the connection with a puller and no amount of prying and bashing the arm with a hammer did any good either.

I finally got it off by wedging some square, steel tubing between the centre-link and cross member and using the floor jack to lever the piece of tubing thus forcing the centre-link down. I then bashed the **** out the idler-arm with a hammer and it popped off.

Something to keep in mind for anyone contemplating doing the swap.

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

I think you can buy a kit that contains all the bushings - might as well replace them all at once, since you may have to take quite a bit off to get to one in particular.

REVHED

I'm aware of that. My question was which bushings can be changed to poly-urethane as changing them all results in severe binding of the rear suspension. The rest will be replaced with new factory rubber bushings.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Where can I order this one set "kit" for our cars?

etherhuffer

Do the watts link set up but don't do the trailing arm bushings. they will bind up. Convert the sway bay end links and bushings. You may need a pry bar in a few spots to get things to move.

moremazda

iTrader: (4)

Rev,

You should leave the old stock rubber in the UPPER trailing links. Everything else can be changed out with no problems.

Ryan

Adsy01

as moremazda said......
evey thing except the rear upperarms.,, it worked a treat on all 3 rx7s ive owned

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

anyone?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Hey Directfreak; www.energysuspension.com has a complete kit. Couldn't seen to find any prices on their site but then I didn't look that hard. What's odd is that the "complete" set doesn't include the watts link bushings, that is a seperate kit. I can't imagine bushings can cost that much. I plan to get them when I get the $$$. Later

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Thank you so much.

inittab

For their sake, I hope their products are better than their web site. Geeez!
try this URL for Mazda info:
http://www.energysuspension.com/maz.html

peejay

The suspension is there to hold the tires in contact with the ground. If the suspension binds, then the tire contact can be compromised. The suspension links have to twist along all three axes as well as stretch and compress in order for the axle to move freely. If you stiffen all of the bushings up, then you'll be compromising that ability.

However, if it's TOO free to move, then you can get wheelhop on acceleration.

Putting the poly bushings in the lowers only, and leaving everything else alone, is a good compromise. This really helps wheelhop. However, it does put additional strain on the upper link bushings when the axle tried to move when the body rolls. It also puts additional strain on the Watts linkage.

Ideally, you'll have rod-ends (spherical bearings in place of bushings) in the lower links, rod-ends in the Watts, and either redesign the upper links so they are a similar length and parallel with the lower links (viewed from the top), or eliminate the upper links and go with a torque arm or a single upper link mounted in the center. But that costs lots more money...